UKC

The Huber brothers, Alex and Thomas, have climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 2 hours 45 minutes 45 seconds, breaking their own speed record set four days previously by over 3 minutes.

On October 4th they managed 2 hours 48 minutes 35 seconds beating the 2002 record set by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama by 20 seconds, although initially there was some confusion over Florine and Hirayama's record time.....

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: lets get the obvious out of the way, thats pretty damm quick.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Insane.
How many pitches is it/how long? Just wondering how long they took per pitch/per metre?

In reply to beegsyboy:

I think I worked it out at 20metres a minute, some going. That is doing Great North Road in 2 minutes for two people

In reply to beegsyboy:

30 - ish.....34

Download the free topo:

http://www.supertopo.com/topos/yosemite/thenose.html

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

But its not done as 36 or whatever if they are NOID. its some ridiculous few like 5 or 8.

In reply to sutty: I made it 17.5 feet a minute - not as fast as you made it, but an incredible rate to keep up for 2 3/4 hours.

In reply to nz Cragrat:

Mind you there are the Nose in a day peopel and the speed nose in a day types...

http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/Nose.html

2900' = 165 mins = 17.5'/min.

Great North Rd = 100'. Both climbers ascend in just under 6 mins. Repeat 29 times without slowing down.

In reply to nz Cragrat:

Yes...lot of simul-climbing.

23 according to Middendorf for Nose In A Day

http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/yosemite/nose-in-a-day.html

And

http://noseinaday.com/

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Yeah I thought that but I recall an article in Rock and Ice (?) that made me realise how much the speedos were hanging it out and I am sure they were simul-climbing large sections.

Wish I could find it as it was quite an eye opener.

In reply to John2:

You may be right. There was mention of someone speed jumaring and that may be the calculation I had. As you say, rather fast, pity it was not on sight?

Better not go to Kendal now, Alex will kill me.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Here is a more average Nose in a Day...http://www.chrismcnamara.com/2005/11/nose-in-day-trip-report.html

In reply to nz Cragrat:

Even more perspective...


"Most" people would take 3-5 days to do the Nose, getting to Sickle Ledge (4 pitches) and fixing 5&6 in the first day.


These guys do the "first day" in around 15 minutes.

Until you actually see El Cap, it is hard to grasp just how utterly ridiculous (i.e mind blowing) it is for two guys to climb that monster lump of rock in 2:45.


And then you have Tommy Caldwell FREE CLIMBING two El Cap routes in a day: The Nose and Freerider-in-a-day. That's over 5,500 feet.

http://www.chrismcnamara.com/2005/10/tommy-caldwell-free-climbs-nose-and.ht...

Caldwell gave a talk on this last October in the Valley - it was stunning. Everyone in the place got their coat.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

However many reports I see of different records on The Nose, it's still Lyne Hill's free ascent nearly 15 years ago that stands out head and shoulders above the rest for me.

Impressive effort from the Hubers though!
jk

From an interview with Hans Florine

I always point out to people that the true record on El Cap is 48 minutes by the cavers. They’ve jugged the thing in 48 minutes.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: It's unbelievable - I bet most people spend that long on the first couple of pitches!

I reckon Hans will be back next year to try and reclaim his crown.

In reply to nz Cragrat:

LOL.

Those darn cavers boys.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

That's bloody fast, but is it as fast as this???

youtube.com/watch?v=Fpm0m6bVfrM&

In reply to Masood:

Lovers Leap is a bloody good place to climb.

In reply to Masood:

Yes, much faster than that.

In reply to Masood: Wow....I've never seen that before!

In reply to Richard Bradley:

Thought not!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I think the speed guys do the nose in 2 'pitches'.
Chris Mac (as linked to above) says they switch leads after the great roof.
The funniest thing is their rack: aside from lightweight aiders and a few draws they have only about a dozen cams.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Just think someone should let people understand that there is a huge difference in speed one day climbs and hauling a fecking fat ugly mother ********* of a pig up the wall, it tends to slow you down. Not doing 1 day attempt, then need water and food and bivi for 2 days, this all slows you down some so now looking at needing 3 days, should bring a little extra water just in case. This extra just slows you enough to push it over to 4 days etc etc.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

The Huber brothers are so strong, their muscles are so big. They used my grill for their sausages in Camp 4 when I was camping there 2 weeks ago and then they broke logs and crushed cans with their bare hands. Their power screams still echo through the valley.

Hubersprung durch technic, ja?

In reply to woodster:
ja, they are the uber brothers. they were the uber mensch of the camp and the captain - i have taken to screaming when breaking wood too and it rally works.

where are my strobe lights

I haven't managed to get out climbing for some time now, but if this is what its all about..Y...A...A...A...W...N...., sure is impressive huh? All those airhorns blastin' around the walls of Yosemite, AIRHORNS!? De rigeur for the modern big wall experience I guess....get a life.

In reply to matt ward: Have you seen alex in his speedo's and leather pants on 'centre of the universe' looks like a snuff movie set up!