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/ ARTICLE: International Rock Climbing Research Congress in Chamonix - A Summary

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UKC Articles - on 04 Sep 2018
Taylor and two climbers: Darren Skolnik and Arabella Jariel of Team USA in French kit., 4 kbTaylor Reed of BetaAngel.com recently attended The International Rock Climbing Research Congress in Chamonix, France. He has kindly allowed us to reproduce his blog summary of the research presented at the event in July.

In a small town of 9,000 permanent residents and 80,000 hotel beds towered over by Mont Blanc, climbers from 29 countries came to nerd out, climb, and drink wine.

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John Kettle - on 04 Sep 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Excellent write-up Taylor! Gutted I missed this one, I'm already saving up in case the next one is in Japan..

pec on 04 Sep 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Is this really what climbing has become? How to turn a life affirming activity into mind numbing tedium.

AlanLittle - on 04 Sep 2018
In reply to pec:

Yeah, I know. Some people find it even more life affirming if they can find ways to get better at it. Bastards. How dare they have different interests & priorities?

Andrew Kin - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Holy crap.  That's amazing.  Its like being back in the 1980's watching Rocky train for his fight with Ivan Drago.  Remember the digital displays and monitors.

Tell me where to sign up for this? ;-)

Dave - on 06 Sep 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Well written, and the author is obviously very enthusiastic about his job, but having skimmed through it is indeed mind numbingly tedious, at least to me. I wonder how many on UKC are interested enough to actually fully read this sort of thing? 1%, 0.1%, 0.001%?

yodadave on 07 Sep 2018
In reply to Dave:

brilliant article and great to see it represented on UKC,

a little gutted my research on UKC users ability to whinge about almost anything wasn't included but understandable given the tenuous link between UKC users and people that actually go climbing ;)

pec on 08 Sep 2018
In reply to yodadave:

> a little gutted my research on UKC users ability to whinge about almost anything wasn't included but understandable given the tenuous link between UKC users and people that actually go climbing ;)

On what basis do you presume that people who find such a single minded drive towards miniscule increases in performance at the expense of actually getting outside and having some fun don't climb?

 

Ex Poster 666 on 08 Sep 2018
In reply to pec:

I'm disappointed to discover my RFD<subscript>200ms<subscript> is piss poor!

yodadave on 08 Sep 2018
In reply to pec:

oh contraire lieutenant, I presume nothing, i was just poking a bit of fun that a well written and researched article was getting torn down because although perfectly in line with climbing in the UK it doesn't fit within the narrow boundaries of acceptable to some British climbers on this forum.  I don't even have a gym within an hours drive, nevermind a training centre capable of pushing my climbing in these directions, but I appreciate good journalism and value viewpoints different to my own. I also think others can have fun in ways i don't, so my point was far more about whinging than it was about any individuals logbook. After all mine is filled with some of the most mediocre nonsense of anybodies. So genuinely, no offense meant Templeton, and I hope your a getting outside just now instead of single mindedly focusing on those trying to improve their performance.

Stuart William - on 08 Sep 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Thank you Taylor, really interesting summary. I’ll certainly be digging through some of those papers to see if there are any avenues for my own research. A timely article for me and nice to see that climbing is steadily moving away from just extrapolating from running and resistance research.

My tuppence on the “just get out and climb” debate -  having some insight into what will/won’t help my climbing progress is always of interest to me personally. It’s not the be all and end all, but if I can have fun and spend time with friends while progressing a little faster then I’m all for understanding a bit more about how the body and mind can be coaxed into being a little more effective. I don’t begrudge anyone who doesn’t look at it the same way, but I hear a fair bit of questionable anecdotal advice for climbers. Research like this will filter down over time and hopefully help people to climb healthily and happily whatever their goals. 

The marginal gains of elite athletes may not ever be relevant to me, but there’ll still be lessons I can use to improve and to avoid getting injured in the process.

Stu


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