UKC

In this video series, Tom Randall and Ollie Torr from Lattice will be working with a number of their climbers and taking them through a performance profiling test. This enables them to assess their strengths and weakness and ultimately work out what areas they need to focus on during training. These videos aim to give you the tools to assess your own strengths and weaknesses. The series will then provide a whole host of exercises to improve strength, power, power endurance and general body conditioning. The objective is to give you ways in which you can train using a variety of training facilities, no matter where you are.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

looks interesting. thanks for posting this

 

In reply to UKC Articles:

Possibly we need to wait for the full series, but this video doesn't really seem to have much useful information in terms of what climbers that aren't Lattice clients can apply to their training - there are a couple of points about shoulder positioning at the end, but even those are related to the scoring system by which Lattice assesses a client's strengths and weaknesses. 

"At the end of the series you should have the tools to assess yourself and then go away and carry out the training.": Hopefully this is the case, but based on this first video it seems more like the series is an advertisement for Lattice - videos that people who have an interest in improving will click on, only to find that all of the advice contained therein cannot be applied without a Lattice board on which to assess oneself, a Lattice coach to decode the scoring system, and a Lattice training plan based on the analysis. 

And to address the common counterpoint: Sure, this is free content on a free website, and no one is being forced to watch it; I can't argue with that. Posting this as a 'Skills' article/video, however, seems disingenuous, given that the only things I've learned from watching this first video are some of the elements of Lattice's approach, and the fact that these don't appear to be things that I can go away and apply on my own.

I do hope my cynicism is misdirected, and would be happy to be proven wrong.

In reply to Valkyrie1968:

This echoes my thoughts too, in addition the fixed template of the lattice does not cater for different arm lengths and skeletal shoulder width. I would have thought it more useful to repeat the same tests on a normal circuit board with much grater choice of hold position. 

However like you I'm also looking foreword to the next videos with the hope of enlightenment

In reply to Valkyrie1968:

Disclaimer: I work for Lattice, though I haven't been involved with the production of these videos.

Designing tests for movement skills that aren't "Have an experienced coach watch you climb and give you their opinion" is very tricky, much more so than energy systems stuff (strength, strength endurance etc.) where it tends to be easier to design objective tests (e.g. how much weight can you hang off this edge?)

The tests shown in the video are  basically "Can you do these sorts of moves?" tests. A surprisingly large number of people we've tested struggle with these basic movement patterns and it's thus an obvious area to work on. In our experience this generally doesn't have much relation to morphology. We've seen plenty of juniors who can do the cross through test, for example, and plenty of long armed adults who can't.