/ SKILLS: Lattice Training: Testing Movement and Efficiency
looks interesting. thanks for posting this
Possibly we need to wait for the full series, but this video doesn't really seem to have much useful information in terms of what climbers that aren't Lattice clients can apply to their training - there are a couple of points about shoulder positioning at the end, but even those are related to the scoring system by which Lattice assesses a client's strengths and weaknesses.
"At the end of the series you should have the tools to assess yourself and then go away and carry out the training.": Hopefully this is the case, but based on this first video it seems more like the series is an advertisement for Lattice - videos that people who have an interest in improving will click on, only to find that all of the advice contained therein cannot be applied without a Lattice board on which to assess oneself, a Lattice coach to decode the scoring system, and a Lattice training plan based on the analysis.
And to address the common counterpoint: Sure, this is free content on a free website, and no one is being forced to watch it; I can't argue with that. Posting this as a 'Skills' article/video, however, seems disingenuous, given that the only things I've learned from watching this first video are some of the elements of Lattice's approach, and the fact that these don't appear to be things that I can go away and apply on my own.
I do hope my cynicism is misdirected, and would be happy to be proven wrong.
This echoes my thoughts too, in addition the fixed template of the lattice does not cater for different arm lengths and skeletal shoulder width. I would have thought it more useful to repeat the same tests on a normal circuit board with much grater choice of hold position.
However like you I'm also looking foreword to the next videos with the hope of enlightenment
Disclaimer: I work for Lattice, though I haven't been involved with the production of these videos.
Designing tests for movement skills that aren't "Have an experienced coach watch you climb and give you their opinion" is very tricky, much more so than energy systems stuff (strength, strength endurance etc.) where it tends to be easier to design objective tests (e.g. how much weight can you hang off this edge?)
The tests shown in the video are basically "Can you do these sorts of moves?" tests. A surprisingly large number of people we've tested struggle with these basic movement patterns and it's thus an obvious area to work on. In our experience this generally doesn't have much relation to morphology. We've seen plenty of juniors who can do the cross through test, for example, and plenty of long armed adults who can't.
Our Friday Night Video this week documents Adam Ondra's recent trip to the Canadian Rockies. The film gives a superb insight into... Read more
For the first time in recent history, the jewel of Scottish (possibly even British!) sea cliff climbing gets the SMC... Read more
The seventh annual Arc'teryx Alpine Academy, which ran from Thursday the 5th to Sunday the 8th, drew to a close last week in... Read more
Overlooking the village of Tremadog, the sun-blessed cliffs of Craig Pant Ifan and Bwlch y Moch offer over 300 routes ranging... Read more