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Alastair Robertson has made what is thought to be the first repeat of the testing Julian Lines slab route, Judge Jules E8 7a at the Nth Cloud area of Staffordshire's Roaches.
On the 24th January he turned his attention to head-pointing another difficult slab in the form of Curbar's Knockin' On Heaven's Door,
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=01&year=2009#n45807
On the 24th January he turned his attention to head-pointing another difficult slab in the form of Curbar's Knockin' On Heaven's Door,
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=01&year=2009#n45807
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC: Good effort. If he is a slab genius, there are a few Julian Lines slabs in Scotland begging to be repeated.
In reply to Chris F:
Alastair is well placed to give them a go if he's interested (he's already done a handful of first ascents at the Pass of Ballater)
Alastair is well placed to give them a go if he's interested (he's already done a handful of first ascents at the Pass of Ballater)
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC:
I thought Mark Sharratt had done 'Judge Jules'
Andi Turner is the man in the know up them parts.
> the first repeat of the testing Julian Lines slab route, Judge Jules E8 7a >
I thought Mark Sharratt had done 'Judge Jules'
Andi Turner is the man in the know up them parts.
In reply to andy farnell:
(Mick dashes off to furiously make some calls and emails)
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) Pasquill.
>
> Andy F
>
> Andy F
(Mick dashes off to furiously make some calls and emails)
In reply to Chris F:
Not these days Chris.
Jack is our Editor, Kevin Avery, Assistant Editor. They are everyones' first call for news and articles etc. I do assist and help.
My primary concern is advertising at UKC and developing UKHillwalking.com
Cheers though.
Mick
> (In reply to andy farnell)
> [...]
>
> (Mick dashes off to furiously make some calls and emails)
> [...]
>
> (Mick dashes off to furiously make some calls and emails)
Not these days Chris.
Jack is our Editor, Kevin Avery, Assistant Editor. They are everyones' first call for news and articles etc. I do assist and help.
My primary concern is advertising at UKC and developing UKHillwalking.com
Cheers though.
Mick
In reply to andy farnell:
Flashed or onsighted? I ask because I know that for years Ry avoided watching Hard Grit because he wanted to onsight Gaia. It's possible that with the near omnipresence of Gaia videos that in the end he couldn't avoid it.
> (In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC) Apparantly Ry flashed Gaia at the weekend... Wad.
>
> Andy F
>
> Andy F
Flashed or onsighted? I ask because I know that for years Ry avoided watching Hard Grit because he wanted to onsight Gaia. It's possible that with the near omnipresence of Gaia videos that in the end he couldn't avoid it.
In reply to Serpico:
Flashed according to Doylo over on UKB. I wonder if he's seen Stone Monkey as a youth...
Andy F
> (In reply to andy farnell)
> [...]
>
> Flashed or onsighted? I ask because I know that for years Ry avoided watching Hard Grit because he wanted to onsight Gaia. It's possible that with the near omnipresence of Gaia videos that in the end he couldn't avoid it.
> [...]
>
> Flashed or onsighted? I ask because I know that for years Ry avoided watching Hard Grit because he wanted to onsight Gaia. It's possible that with the near omnipresence of Gaia videos that in the end he couldn't avoid it.
Flashed according to Doylo over on UKB. I wonder if he's seen Stone Monkey as a youth...
Andy F
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC: Good effort!
In reply to flyby:
Mark hasn't done Judge Jules (not as of last time I saw him end of December), but he did belay Lines on the FA.
Mark hasn't done Judge Jules (not as of last time I saw him end of December), but he did belay Lines on the FA.
In reply to flyby:
I thought that too.
Good effort Aly! Slab genius eh! Need to get you up to the Dubh Loch.
Take care mate.
Trist
I thought that too.
Good effort Aly! Slab genius eh! Need to get you up to the Dubh Loch.
Take care mate.
Trist
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC:
In the news article it says: "Ally also told us that Alastair felt that E7 6c was a more realistic grade for this route."
sorry, which route? Judge Jules or Knocking?
In the news article it says: "Ally also told us that Alastair felt that E7 6c was a more realistic grade for this route."
sorry, which route? Judge Jules or Knocking?
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC:
Good effort!!
Good effort!!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
That's a nice story. Thanks
> (In reply to Chris F)
> [...]
>
> Not these days Chris.
>
> Jack is our Editor, Kevin Avery, Assistant Editor. They are everyones' first call for news and articles etc. I do assist and help.
>
> My primary concern is advertising at UKC and developing UKHillwalking.com
> [...]
>
> Not these days Chris.
>
> Jack is our Editor, Kevin Avery, Assistant Editor. They are everyones' first call for news and articles etc. I do assist and help.
>
> My primary concern is advertising at UKC and developing UKHillwalking.com
That's a nice story. Thanks
In reply to Jon Read: Knocking my my reading of it.
In reply to Richard Bradley:
Agreed, sounds like he means Knockin which was always considered E7 6c with the peg. Pete Robbins will be smug, he's been claiming that peg could be placed on lead for years.
Agreed, sounds like he means Knockin which was always considered E7 6c with the peg. Pete Robbins will be smug, he's been claiming that peg could be placed on lead for years.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
You are not actually kidding are you !!
<shudders>
> My primary concern ... at UKC ... developing UKHillwalking.com
You are not actually kidding are you !!
<shudders>
In reply to ChrisJD:
Hell no Chris. I take my job very seriously indeed.
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> [...]
>
>
> You are not actually kidding are you !!
>
> <shudders>
>
> [...]
>
>
> You are not actually kidding are you !!
>
> <shudders>
Hell no Chris. I take my job very seriously indeed.
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC:
A sound effort indeed. We were there in the morning and sacked it off because it was so bloody cold, just as Aly was arriving.
Second ascent as far as we're aware unless one has gone under the radar. The gear looks terrible but Jules tested it on numerous occasions, I think he even wrote a poem about it - I kid not.
Well done on both accounts
A sound effort indeed. We were there in the morning and sacked it off because it was so bloody cold, just as Aly was arriving.
Second ascent as far as we're aware unless one has gone under the radar. The gear looks terrible but Jules tested it on numerous occasions, I think he even wrote a poem about it - I kid not.
Well done on both accounts
In reply to andi turner:
Oh, and as an aside, is Aly's best on-sight really E3??? or does his profile need updating?
Oh, and as an aside, is Aly's best on-sight really E3??? or does his profile need updating?
In reply to andi turner:
Profile probably needs an update, he's definitely not 22 any more and I'm pretty sure bouldering 5+ is just what he reckons it should be graded...
Profile probably needs an update, he's definitely not 22 any more and I'm pretty sure bouldering 5+ is just what he reckons it should be graded...
In reply to Adam L:
Is that classed as Born Slippy then? Never knew the difference between the two lines....
> (In reply to Richard Bradley)
>
> Agreed, sounds like he means Knockin which was always considered E7 6c with the peg. Pete Robbins will be smug, he's been claiming that peg could be placed on lead for years.
>
> Agreed, sounds like he means Knockin which was always considered E7 6c with the peg. Pete Robbins will be smug, he's been claiming that peg could be placed on lead for years.
Is that classed as Born Slippy then? Never knew the difference between the two lines....
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC:
Good job Aly. Very suprised to see your name pushed onto a news page - was Smith to blame? ( ;
In Peak 17th, -19th of Feb and staying at Al's. It's mid week but Pete may be coming over for an afternoon, would be nice to hang out if you fancied it? We could have another alpine curbar start? Matt
Good job Aly. Very suprised to see your name pushed onto a news page - was Smith to blame? ( ;
In Peak 17th, -19th of Feb and staying at Al's. It's mid week but Pete may be coming over for an afternoon, would be nice to hang out if you fancied it? We could have another alpine curbar start? Matt
In reply to flyby:
no,not done it.soloed the route to the right 5 or 6 years ago.did judge jules on a tope rope.as aly says its more like e7 6c.
i belayed jules on it.when i saw him wobbling i had to run down the bank to stop him decking.he stopped about 5 foot off the floor
> (In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC)
> [...]
>
> I thought Mark Sharratt had done 'Judge Jules'
>
> Andi Turner is the man in the know up them parts.
> [...]
>
> I thought Mark Sharratt had done 'Judge Jules'
>
> Andi Turner is the man in the know up them parts.
no,not done it.soloed the route to the right 5 or 6 years ago.did judge jules on a tope rope.as aly says its more like e7 6c.
i belayed jules on it.when i saw him wobbling i had to run down the bank to stop him decking.he stopped about 5 foot off the floor
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC:
Good effort Aly. Can't hide from the glare of the internet forever though I'm sure you'll try
jk
Good effort Aly. Can't hide from the glare of the internet forever though I'm sure you'll try
jk
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Born Slippy was the first ascent without the pre-placed peg, but took an illogical line to seek out other pro. The idea didn't really catch on and within a couple of years came Ben Tetler's solo ascent which pretty muchleft it redundant.
Born Slippy was the first ascent without the pre-placed peg, but took an illogical line to seek out other pro. The idea didn't really catch on and within a couple of years came Ben Tetler's solo ascent which pretty muchleft it redundant.
In reply to mark s:
I think he means Knockin' and not Judge jules shazza . . .. .
Flippin hard that Judge is. . . . I thought it was sustained enough for the 7a . . .. bloody big fall n all !
Good effort BTW !
J
I think he means Knockin' and not Judge jules shazza . . .. .
Flippin hard that Judge is. . . . I thought it was sustained enough for the 7a . . .. bloody big fall n all !
Good effort BTW !
J
In reply to mark s:
Shaz, how far off route would it be to put the RP in on Judge Dredd? After some beta for my onsight
> (In reply to flyby)
> [...]
>
> no,not done it.soloed the route to the right 5 or 6 years ago.did judge jules on a tope rope.as aly says its more like e7 6c.
> i belayed jules on it.when i saw him wobbling i had to run down the bank to stop him decking.he stopped about 5 foot off the floor
> [...]
>
> no,not done it.soloed the route to the right 5 or 6 years ago.did judge jules on a tope rope.as aly says its more like e7 6c.
> i belayed jules on it.when i saw him wobbling i had to run down the bank to stop him decking.he stopped about 5 foot off the floor
Shaz, how far off route would it be to put the RP in on Judge Dredd? After some beta for my onsight
In reply to Jon Read:
Knockin'! News now amended to make this more explicit
> (In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC)
>
> In the news article it says: "Ally also told us that Alastair felt that E7 6c was a more realistic grade for this route."
>
> sorry, which route? Judge Jules or Knocking?
>
> In the news article it says: "Ally also told us that Alastair felt that E7 6c was a more realistic grade for this route."
>
> sorry, which route? Judge Jules or Knocking?
Knockin'! News now amended to make this more explicit
In reply to Chris F:
If he is a slab genius he can go and do the second repeat of TWOL
If he is a slab genius he can go and do the second repeat of TWOL
In reply to justin c: no,he said to andi he thought judge jules was e7 6c.
adam,it would be 1 move up into judge dredd then back onto a small edge.its 1 move off this ledge to a good smear then 2 more to the finishing side pull of judge dredd.
adam,it would be 1 move up into judge dredd then back onto a small edge.its 1 move off this ledge to a good smear then 2 more to the finishing side pull of judge dredd.
In reply to mark s:
No, no, no, I can't believe I'm typing this even though your sitting on my radiator. He said in his email that it may be 6c, said it was harder than the crux on Counterstroke but couldn't comment whether 6c or 7a as he says he's not done a 7a before.
Either way, doesn't really matter, it's a hard slab with low gear and a grand effort. Jules reckons it would be easier for the tall, good luck Adam!
No, no, no, I can't believe I'm typing this even though your sitting on my radiator. He said in his email that it may be 6c, said it was harder than the crux on Counterstroke but couldn't comment whether 6c or 7a as he says he's not done a 7a before.
Either way, doesn't really matter, it's a hard slab with low gear and a grand effort. Jules reckons it would be easier for the tall, good luck Adam!
In reply to Adam L:
Gear on Judge Dread feels definatively off-route, unfortunately.
The exact line of J.Jules is a slightly myopic experience though of course is fully worthwhile because of the rock and location! You can travel a very hard route if you move sharply left from the far left of the JD ledge, but my mate found a unsatisfactory amalagam between the two lines which was about the same difficulty as JD (poss. easier!) ...
Gear on Judge Dread feels definatively off-route, unfortunately.
The exact line of J.Jules is a slightly myopic experience though of course is fully worthwhile because of the rock and location! You can travel a very hard route if you move sharply left from the far left of the JD ledge, but my mate found a unsatisfactory amalagam between the two lines which was about the same difficulty as JD (poss. easier!) ...
In reply to Jon Read: Yeah, I've heard this from other sources too.
Ageing Adolescents is similar in that it too is very hard and very worthwhile but you can make it easier by a slight move one way or the other.
Ageing Adolescents is similar in that it too is very hard and very worthwhile but you can make it easier by a slight move one way or the other.
In reply to andi turner: we said aging was the worse route ever
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC: Congratulations to Alastair - and it made me think Julian Lines has to be a contender for the title of Britain's least famous best climber? Presumably he has a job and has never felt the need to court publicity/sponsorship - but considering his routes from Shelterstone to the Aberdeen Seacliffs to the Grit are all amongst the hardest and have been for a decade its interesting that he not more well known. All I know is that he has (had?) a truly terrible haircut like I had in about 1991.
In reply to TobyA:
Had!
Jules is an amazing clmber and has some fantastic stories to tell, a living legend in my eyes.
> (In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC)All I know is that he has (had?) a truly terrible haircut like I had in about 1991.
Had!
Jules is an amazing clmber and has some fantastic stories to tell, a living legend in my eyes.
In reply to andi turner: you've got that title now mop head
In reply to TobyA:
Julian Lines, professional abseiler and Scotland's 41st most eligible bachelor, according to the Scotsman:
http://news.scotsman.com/latestnews/41-Julian-Lines.2828254.jp
Julian Lines, professional abseiler and Scotland's 41st most eligible bachelor, according to the Scotsman:
http://news.scotsman.com/latestnews/41-Julian-Lines.2828254.jp
In reply to andi turner:
The only time I met him I wasn't really paying attention and he was wearing a hoodie and I mistook him for a certain Justin Critchlow of this parish. Both good climbers with unusual hair, but the resemblance pretty much ends there.
The only time I met him I wasn't really paying attention and he was wearing a hoodie and I mistook him for a certain Justin Critchlow of this parish. Both good climbers with unusual hair, but the resemblance pretty much ends there.
In reply to tony:
He also enjoys entertaining the crowds:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10990580@N03/1085764402/
(from the Aberdeen DWS festival 2007)
He also enjoys entertaining the crowds:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10990580@N03/1085764402/
(from the Aberdeen DWS festival 2007)
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