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THE LOWDOWN: Sharma came to town

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Yesterday, Chris Sharma was in Stockholm. Before his "show", lacking a better word, we had a quick chat over a beer. Chris says he's still super psyched about putting up new routes in Spain. He's spent the summer re-modeling his new house in Sant Llorenc De Montgai, and hasn't had that much time to...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=54734

Some of these replies were posted on Björn's old blog website, and so won't be from registered UKC users
That's cool. It seems people are reading in a little too much though. Chris never said he has stopped bouldering, just that he's not that interested in it right now. I'm sure this will change and he'll get motivated again.
gian 28 Sep 2009
is IKEA selling those modular 8A sequences?
Scotty Glasberg 28 Sep 2009
Nice Chris...Keep up the hard work..Glad to hear you have a house super close to all the killer spanish stuff. hahah knocking the hardest boulder problems! For sure dude..! That's funny. But true. I'm sure you'll find another boulder super special...Remember how simplistic bouldering is.
prAna 28 Sep 2009
bjorn we just reposted at http://www.facebook.com/prana

Be sure and become a fan!
Tim 28 Sep 2009
That is a well reasoned and articulate perspective. Completely out of place for the internet!
Anonymous 28 Sep 2009
Another reason sport climbing seems to be dominating right now as the primary medium for advancing climbing difficulty is that most hard sport routes - Dreamcatcher, Jumbo Love, La Rambla etc - are enhanced to some extent, usually just enough so they're feasible for whatever the current elite level of climbing difficulty is. Bouldering, on the other hand, has to wait for standards to advance to the level of difficulty the rock actually presents, because of the stigma attached to manufactured boulder problems. In this sense one could argue that the advances in standards seen in sport climbing in recent years aren't really representative of an actual advance in difficulty, compared to the way that bouldering standards have advanced. In other words, if you were to apply the same strict, no-fake-holds standard to sport climbing that you do to bouldering, sport climbing almost certainly would not be where it is today.

I think the next real advance in sport climbing will have to wait till we get people who are trained up to Sharma's hypothetical "8a problems stacked on top of one another" level, which no one, including him, is anywhere near yet. The training technique and human ability for that probably doesn't exist yet (if it ever will), and in any event the current prevalence of manufactured routes on the cutting edge of difficulty hinders, not advances, accelerated difficulty. The fact tha Sharma himself has only advanced 3 letter grades since in the dozen or so years since Necessary Evil could be taken as proof of this hypothesis.
Chri 31 Oct 2009
what about first round first minute proj.? somewhere i read it´s like three v 11s stacked on each other...

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