/ NEWS: Shauna Coxsey 3rd in Meiringen Boulder World Cup
Well done Shauna. Amazing result considering the injury set backs.
I caught the end of the men’s final. Adam Ondra shot up the final M4 jamming problem like a rat up a drainpipe pipe and made it look VS.
The other climbers who are amongst the strongest in the world in comparison looked like complete punters. It looks like none of them had very much jamming experience.
Yes well done Shauna,
I didn't see the footage but I quite like the notion of the setters stumping the overly specialised comp climbers by requiring some real outdoor skills for once. Good stuff.
After your comment I just had to see it. For anyone interested, the video in the article has Ondra climbing at about 1:53. It's one of those moments where he makes it look so easy you think 'I'd give it a go' before obviously failing miserably, which can be seen by all the climbers pre 1:53 trying all sorts of ways to avoid the jam.
Great to see Shauna back in action and crushing again.
Sounds like the Japanese team needs to hire the Wideboyz for some specialist coaching! That said it'll probably be 5 years before there's another crack problem in a bouldering world cup. Would love to see a feet first offwidth - might be hard in that 4 minute window though.
Regular moan: Please don't put spoilers in the headline of the article... It's a 4 event streamed on Saturday night, not everyone will have had a chance to watch it by Monday lunchtime!
Even something vague like "Shauna podiums at first World Cup" would at least keep suspense for those of us avoiding social media until having watched it.
[Having now watched it]
Good first round!
M1 was a bit rubbish - cheap way to get separation.
I'm all for hand jams though, that's at least 2 handjams in recent finals, and they've caught people out both times. Perfectly legitimate setting, and as they've come in in 2017 (I think?), it's not that much of a surprise to see them a couple of years later.
Ondra looking in great form
Women's was good - Excellent to see Akiyo keeping pace with Janja, and Shauna not a million miles off either. Should be a good season, as long as everyone stays healthy.
Also, from a technical point of view; great stuff. Good camera angles and cuts, replays, on-screen infographics... Couldn't really fault the commentary either.
Sorry, but we're a news website and we're in the run-up to climbing's Olympic debut. We'd be fools not to report on the success of a Team GB athlete for both their sake and ours. We are going to Tokyo and are upping our coverage of competition climbing and Olympic content, so if you don't want to know, don't go on UKC or FB until you've watched it!
Fair enough, but that's why at least "Shauna reaches podium" would be a happy medium?
As it's the article headline, and therefore also the Forum article title, means I saw it despite going straight to the forums, specifically to try and avoid seeing the result :D
> I'm all for hand jams though, that's at least 2 handjams in recent finals, and they've caught people out both times. Perfectly legitimate setting, and as they've come in in 2017 (I think?), it's not that much of a surprise to see them a couple of years later.
2017???? the first hand jamming that I can remember in a comp was one of the World Cups at the NEC in 2004 - this was a roof crack but it was possible (but harder) to not use. The following year there was a fairly straight forward hand jamming crack (Salavat cruised it). Then in La Reunion there was another crack. There was one a few years ago in Vail, Jan Hojer was looking set for the victory but couldn't jam so lost out (he learnt very quickly afterwards though). The common denominator was Percy worked at all of these comps. Jamie Cassidy was chief in Meiringen so it should not really have been a surprise to see the crack.
Jacky Godoffe and a few others occasionally set cracks but Percy was always the main protagonist!
I'll change our 'UKC News' section to 'UKC Spoilers'.
Ah yes - I knew there was more history, but for the current athletes, you could possibly argue looking back to 2004 would be a stretch, where as the previous season or two it should've been a more obvious thing to cover.
Obviously the finals are set before you know who the finalists are and I think that it is a safe bet that the likes of Kruder or Megos or Rubstov or Hojer or Khazanhov know how to jam - we have a crack on the comp wall for the CWIF 2018 qualifier and Mr Megos did it footless for a laugh
> Regular moan: Please don't put spoilers in the headline of the article... It's a 4 event streamed on Saturday night, not everyone will have had a chance to watch it by Monday lunchtime!
If you were deliberately trying to avoid the Football results, would you go browsing BBC Sport?
Perfect thanks ;)
Yes... but I'd think the general news section of the BBC page would be fine :p
I'd like to echo the point about putting results in the title, ruined the excitement of watching it, it's been said before by me and others.
Good boulders I thought, personally happy to see last "circus" problems
As someone who often likes to watch highlights or "as live" sporting events later on without knowing the score, I can confirm that you definitely cannot rely on avoiding spoilers if you go to the BBC news front page.
Alex Puccio has climbed Heritage, a Carlo Traversi Font 8B+ in Val Bavona, Switzerland. This was Puccio's fifth climb graded 8B+ after previously climbing Jade, The Wheel of Chaos, New Baseline and The Penrose Step.