> Extra tip: Beware the young hot shot climbing shop assistant who advises you to go for really small shoes - they think everyone wants to be a rockstar, but actually comfort is key.
Couldn't agree more, thats exactly what happened to me when i started out - just get something that is comfortable - my very first pair of boots were some big scarpas ( had the high ankle bit like old EBs) and i was climbing up to E1 in those. I was then advised to get Anasazi lace ups, which crippled me (literally) and made climbing horrible.
Getting your feet measured for rock shoes is in fact for the assistant, so they can get a sense of the shape/volume of your foot in order to recommend a shoe. The size (length) of your foot does not affect in any way the size shoe you might end up with.
The author wrote about sizes varying from brand to brand and model to model, but I might add that they also vary batch to batch. I'm now on my fifth pair of Anasazi VCR's, and I've bought sizes 8 through 9.5, all of which are exactly the same size. A good reason not to buy online, even if you want to replace your current shoe.