/ FRI NIGHT VID: The Seaside - Climbing on Britain's Coastal Cliffs
The amount of work involved in this is massive. Anyone who has tried to make a film will appreciate this. There is some really good footage of sea cliff climbing which I know from bitter experience is hard won. Well done Mike.
What a great film, understated and mellow. Nice to shine a light on some less well known crags, though some of that Range choss is probably best left unknown. Earthly Powers looks amazing, one for the ticklist.
Just to echo James above - the sheer effort involved in the making of this film is totally inspiring, together with this and Mike’s recent climbing accident I’m in awe of his drive and commitment. The sea cliffs of this country are our best assets and this film shows them off in a splendid, peculiar and downbeat way. Not a Redbull in sight.
P.s gizzus ya dws footage? ;-)
Aside from some sound issues, this is really good. Making me long for an adventure - which I'm pretty sure is the point.
Couldn't agree more. I really enjoyed this, it feels like a truly genuine portrayal of UK sea cliff climbing; and it has saved me from ever being dragged to the Range.
Absolutely loved that. Friday night heaven.
I haven’t even watched this yet but massive props to Mike for making it.
Did Earthly Powers last week strangely enough. Very good. Take a strimmer for the approach. There is a new topo on the logbook page. You can scramble along the ridge opposite to see where to abseil in or leave a rope for the top section if you choose to scramble in.
Great route, James. Have you do any of the other stuff there?
Great little film.
Matt. 'The Complete Works'... fair play!
The Range has some genuinely great little climbs with a very nice vibe - they just weren't shown on the film. Have a look in the definitive guide, it's quite good at highlighting the different styles and qualities of the routes.
I love this video. If ever l need to explain to foreign climbers what is great about British rock climbing I'll just show them this video.
Jeez there's some sketchy goings on in the first half. Best in show has to go to Fiend's grappling with mud and the odd bits of rock - which he then hurls at his belayer - brill!
I love 'honest' films that portray everyman's struggles, wobbles, failures and successes. I've no time for the over-rehearsed, super-slick characterless 'sends'.
Brilliant work Mike Cheque, and by everyone involved. A dedicated piece of work secured by thoughtful insight. Great sea cliff routes all round and especially good to watch Earthly Powers being climbed so well. This was one of O'Sullivan's most memorable jaunts. On sight and into the wilderness. No handrail rope down the grass (we didn't know where we were heading), initial groove a bit wet and greasy and the Atlantic snapping at our heels. We had some laughs down those cliffs, even when the clouds gathered. At the time, Peter was reading Anthony Burgess's epic novel Earthly Powers . Hence the name. Coincidentally, some years before, I had been 'looking after' Burgess on a photo shoot at Long Carn, just to the right of the descent path to Whirl Pool Buttress. Anyone interested in the 'literary' connect might waste a few minutes on:
Good to see Arthur Andrews' Bosigran Ridge and the Edwards' splendid Rock Dancer also featured in the video. All fine West Penwith routes among a huge canon of brilliant climbs tagged with the names of Biven, Deacon, Goodier, Cannings, Littlejohn, Edwards, O'Sullivan, Raine and many more great players.
LOL thanks. In my defence both The Great Crack Of Porth Oer and The Complete Works slant rightwards quite a bit so stuff mostly wasn't landing too close.
Makes me remember what I miss most about climbing in the UK - must be time to arrange another Lundy trip
> At the time, Peter was reading Anthony Burgess's epic novel Earthly Powers . Hence the name. Coincidentally, some years before, I had been 'looking after' Burgess on a photo shoot at Long Carn, just to the right of the descent path to Whirl Pool Buttress. Anyone interested in the 'literary' connect might waste a few minutes on:
Fascinating coincidence and interesting blog post. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Luke. Every climb is a story!
Just got round to this, brilliant thank you!
Cheers Des. ****ing Burgess, Lawrence, The Seaside and Rosemergy Towers (and its ba****d sandbags sometimes leaving 4 letter counterpoint to the coastal soundscape) all in one thread. A tin version of Hofstadter ;-).
A really good, inspirational video, with none of the "to be expected" egotistical claptrap and look at me posing in videos these days.
I'm interested to see that young Mr Fiend climbs such dangerous, crumbly stuff with only his semi bald, occasionally shiny and always lovely scalp between him and permanent brain damage.
I know, I should have been wearing a lid. When I get back into proper climbing I will get one.
Super vid Love the mousetrap sequence. A route that never made of my “to do” list for good reason.
That was great! The Eroica bit had me gripped.
It looks like some bore has already turned it into a ticking exercise though. Classic UKC. And to encourage people to do The Complete Works too... Jesus.
But that *was* proper climbing! You have inspired me to go and explore the weirdness of The Range in more detail.
I get everything but the maths and physics - which is why I was probably rubbish at grading routes. Those Rosemergy micro routes were all quickly repeated and downgraded initially by the sadly late Andrew Trevorrow who, aged eighteen at the time - early Eighties - was easily capable of 6a-ish. We were so ignorant of grades, however, we thought 5a/5b was probably the hardest we could ever manage.
Great film. I watched this right through which very rarely happens these days. Brilliantly filmed and edited. As others have said a gigantic amount of filming, interviewing and editing must have been involved. So nice to see fellow punters having the intense experiences that make onsight climbing memorable. I also liked that the grades were not shown when introducing the routes. They all looked brick hard!
I meant proper climbing like that yes, rather than farting around sport climbing at the moment (due to illness).
Rosemergy TowersAn excellent film which captures the beauty and adventure of sea cliff climbing. I well remember taking 2 young lads on a county course up the second ascent of Des' Hard Times ( well away from the sea on an erstwhile safe crag). Whilst wobbling on the final move with little gear and having been told it was 5a I vowed to never trust your judgement again. Thankfully that was short lived and we had many more great days out on the cliffs of West Penwith. It was Des who supplied the whereabouts of Earthly Powers for which I am eternally grateful
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