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Trad Climbing Essentials - Building a Rack

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Trad is an undeniably kit-intensive activity, and when you're starting out it can be confusing as to what you do and don't need. What makes it all the more complex is that what you'll need will depend on what grade you're climbing and what rock type you're climbing on. In this article we'll try to break down the options available and the choices you'll have as you make your way up through the grades, and onto different rock types.

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1
 Jon Read 16:37 Mon
In reply to UKC Articles:

Nut key -- as essential as your wires. And if you want your wires to last, make your second use them on every nut, no yankin'!

 Rick Graham 17:42 Mon
In reply to Jon Read:

Good point.

I take exception to the title, reminds me of " building a belay", hate the term. In the distant past, was told to put in a few points and tie some knots.

Otherwise, good article, Rob.

PS. Had a bad morning, spent most of it insuring a vehicle. Why should I need to spend 0.1% of my waking life sorting insurance for a car?

5
 JonZBentley 20:52 Mon
In reply to UKC Articles:

no mention of Totems? The most differentiated cam to the three brands mentioned… combination of narrow profile, cam shape and axles mean they fit in places the others don’t and tend to be confidence-inspiring 

2
 Rick Graham 22:19 Mon
In reply to JonZBentley:

Everybody can have their opinion.

Ukcers generally have an obsession with totems and octavias.

I played with totems in Needlesports, have climbed with several folk with an extensive selection. Dont like em. On long pitches just used them up asap to get them off my waist.

Off topic, but whilst looking for another vehicle, tried getting into both a superb and octavia estate. Cramped but OK once inside, could hardly get in and out of the door. No thanks. Bought an expert tepee instead, always wanted a 2.0hdi pre adblue, probs blow up next week.

3
In reply to Rick Graham:

Are you sure you're a climber if you don't like a Skoda Octavia?!?! 

😂

In reply to UKC Articles:

Maybe obvious to us but worth including a set of lockers in your list, including an HMS or two, for beginners' sake. 

And perhaps a few synonyms? I'd never use 'slingdraw' though it's obviously very clear what you mean! (Actually I remember spending the longest time trying to work out exactly what type of gear a 'runner' was...)

Good to still see hexes in here - I know they get a bad rep but at least on grit I find them invaluable for anchors (or the occasional placement at lower grades). That's particularly pertinent when you only have one small set of cams, as I suspect most beginners have as well, or in an anchor you're not right next to. I can think of a few classic Diffs and VDs that don't have much more than one obvious break for your anchor, and if you've used that cam on the route, you're screwed.

Post edited at 00:54

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