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for you climbers who use the gym..
what do you use specifically in the gym? weights? rowers? running machines?
and how often?
what do you use specifically in the gym? weights? rowers? running machines?
and how often?
In reply to Will1991:
I'm currently gymming lots (as a result of a foot injury) but would ordinarily only go once a weak. generally just work core, shoulders and arms.
I'm currently gymming lots (as a result of a foot injury) but would ordinarily only go once a weak. generally just work core, shoulders and arms.
In reply to Will1991:
I've started doing Crossfit, so the workout changes daily. It's a lot more fun that the usual 45mins cardio and then some weights.
I've started doing Crossfit, so the workout changes daily. It's a lot more fun that the usual 45mins cardio and then some weights.
In reply to Will1991: I'm going to join a gym and do mainly weights in order to boost my upper body strength and stamina for multi-pitch mountain routes this summer.
In reply to Will1991:
I use the gym for a bit of all round exercise if i've not been getting out enough due to work. Some cycling, some fixed machines and some free weights.
Are you trying to figure out if you should go to the gym or looking to find out what exercises to do?
Also, If you time your visit with early morning or evening you'll get all the office worker women in doing their treadmill thing.. Sweaty fun times.
I use the gym for a bit of all round exercise if i've not been getting out enough due to work. Some cycling, some fixed machines and some free weights.
Are you trying to figure out if you should go to the gym or looking to find out what exercises to do?
Also, If you time your visit with early morning or evening you'll get all the office worker women in doing their treadmill thing.. Sweaty fun times.
In reply to Will1991:
I use the gym to supplement other sports, climbing is 2nd sport behind american football. But basically i think you just need to gym it, e.g lift weights run or whatever to keep healthy more than anything. The problem i have is that i'm on the large side 17st at 5,10. So gyming and lifting weights make my life harder when i'm climbing, but i'm not going to stop lifting to make my climbing life easier.
So basically i think it all depends on what you want, get stronger - go to gym, but be careful not to dump on too much weight.
Enjoy the gym.
Simon
I use the gym to supplement other sports, climbing is 2nd sport behind american football. But basically i think you just need to gym it, e.g lift weights run or whatever to keep healthy more than anything. The problem i have is that i'm on the large side 17st at 5,10. So gyming and lifting weights make my life harder when i'm climbing, but i'm not going to stop lifting to make my climbing life easier.
So basically i think it all depends on what you want, get stronger - go to gym, but be careful not to dump on too much weight.
Enjoy the gym.
Simon
In reply to Will1991: I try and go to our local boxing gym once a week where I use the rower, exercise bike and maybe a few weight machines to keep toned. It's local and can only help me keep (attempt to keep) fit. Bear in mind I am now 46 so if I cannot get out climbing or down the climbing wall then this at least keeps me positive and also from vegetating in front of the tv.
In reply to Will1991:
I joined but really just don't have the motivation to do stuff like running which I originally intended to do, but HATE.
I do go to some classes though: Yoga, pilates and core stability
I joined but really just don't have the motivation to do stuff like running which I originally intended to do, but HATE.
I do go to some classes though: Yoga, pilates and core stability
In reply to Will1991:
We have a home gym. Which is essentially just a bench and a beastmaker. Usually do loads of bench/flies and shoulder exercises as we have a lot of weights and dumbbells. Sharing a house with a rugby player and a fitness freak ensures that I use it often as well! And then I just go for a run from time to time. We use the gym at least every other day and definitely get a lot more use out of it then when I was member at the local fitness first.
We have a home gym. Which is essentially just a bench and a beastmaker. Usually do loads of bench/flies and shoulder exercises as we have a lot of weights and dumbbells. Sharing a house with a rugby player and a fitness freak ensures that I use it often as well! And then I just go for a run from time to time. We use the gym at least every other day and definitely get a lot more use out of it then when I was member at the local fitness first.
In reply to Will1991:
to start: i climb mostly ice and alpine, with trad and sport filling the gaps in summer.
a boulderer would have a very different attitude (and hair cut probably).
i go about 4 times a week for 2-3hr sessions each time.
i make it an endurance thing: non-stop, rest on the bike.
i use crossfit and gym jones as a model but subscribe to neither.
i do sets of combining exercises that stress different aspects, with one exercise of the lot being high stress and one being resting stress.
and i focus on a particular aspect till i feel ive hit saturation, ie hauling related muscle groups, full body integration, fore arm strength etc etc.
i attempt to activate large core muscle groups that extend to the extremities with exercises like GHD situps with a raised leg and weighted row.
where i can i off set the weight/stress.
i almost never use machines - only if im carrying an injury.
so, yesterdays session (im training for high alt alpine) was:
warm up with dumbells (squats, presses etc) & standing rows.
complex of pull ups, backsquats, pushups and DB presses.
complex of hanging leg raises, DB pistons and backsquats.
GHD off set rows with weights (front and side).
complex of lat presses, bench presses, standing rows and bench leg raises.
130 kcals on bike, maximum resistence, standing position.
running machines bore me to tears, but i run for 2+hrs a day when i dont go to the gym.
rowing machines are great for stress work. wish i had access to one.
in the past i used a weighted sprint sled and large diameter rope hauls and found it good, but dont have access to them now (wish i did)
im sure people will pull all this apart and tell me its bullshit, but im seeing significant progress in lots of ways across other pursuits as well (mountain ultras and rescue).
and yes im addicted to it and probably think into it too much, but hey, i dont hassle others for their addictions that are far less rewarding in my eyes.
to start: i climb mostly ice and alpine, with trad and sport filling the gaps in summer.
a boulderer would have a very different attitude (and hair cut probably).
i go about 4 times a week for 2-3hr sessions each time.
i make it an endurance thing: non-stop, rest on the bike.
i use crossfit and gym jones as a model but subscribe to neither.
i do sets of combining exercises that stress different aspects, with one exercise of the lot being high stress and one being resting stress.
and i focus on a particular aspect till i feel ive hit saturation, ie hauling related muscle groups, full body integration, fore arm strength etc etc.
i attempt to activate large core muscle groups that extend to the extremities with exercises like GHD situps with a raised leg and weighted row.
where i can i off set the weight/stress.
i almost never use machines - only if im carrying an injury.
so, yesterdays session (im training for high alt alpine) was:
warm up with dumbells (squats, presses etc) & standing rows.
complex of pull ups, backsquats, pushups and DB presses.
complex of hanging leg raises, DB pistons and backsquats.
GHD off set rows with weights (front and side).
complex of lat presses, bench presses, standing rows and bench leg raises.
130 kcals on bike, maximum resistence, standing position.
running machines bore me to tears, but i run for 2+hrs a day when i dont go to the gym.
rowing machines are great for stress work. wish i had access to one.
in the past i used a weighted sprint sled and large diameter rope hauls and found it good, but dont have access to them now (wish i did)
im sure people will pull all this apart and tell me its bullshit, but im seeing significant progress in lots of ways across other pursuits as well (mountain ultras and rescue).
and yes im addicted to it and probably think into it too much, but hey, i dont hassle others for their addictions that are far less rewarding in my eyes.
1
In reply to Will1991:
Use the gym for the month spent at work, attempting to keep the fitness levels stable.
Use the rowing , running & the step machine, 2 days on 1 day off for approx 45 minutes, seems to work, but whilst at home will be out every day climbing etc if possible so never bother then other than an occasional recreational run outdoors.
Use the gym for the month spent at work, attempting to keep the fitness levels stable.
Use the rowing , running & the step machine, 2 days on 1 day off for approx 45 minutes, seems to work, but whilst at home will be out every day climbing etc if possible so never bother then other than an occasional recreational run outdoors.
In reply to Will1991:
Climbing isn't my main sport and I get to do little of it at the moment. I train about 10 to 15 hours a week though depending on what I am training for and what stage of training I am at in addition to anything like climbing.
I think for climbers (and this isn't meant to offend anyone) but the climbing wall is the climbers gym. You can probably train there to a high standard developing all the strength and endurance that you need in as specific type way as you can. I also recommend the climbing wall to the people I dont train with for MA as a form of training.
I believe the deadlift would be good for climbers especially if done as an agnostic set with a wide grip chin up. Others on hear do not agree with that and have done research into it. I have not, but I still believe it would be beneficial.
Other than that some excercises that I use in my martial arts training which give me greater strength at edge of my range of flexibility - generally this is accomplished with isometric excercises with a bit of help from some weights. This also leads to greater flexibility.
I reckon cross training in martial arts would be good or pilates (not yoga so much as that is all static).
Climbing isn't my main sport and I get to do little of it at the moment. I train about 10 to 15 hours a week though depending on what I am training for and what stage of training I am at in addition to anything like climbing.
I think for climbers (and this isn't meant to offend anyone) but the climbing wall is the climbers gym. You can probably train there to a high standard developing all the strength and endurance that you need in as specific type way as you can. I also recommend the climbing wall to the people I dont train with for MA as a form of training.
I believe the deadlift would be good for climbers especially if done as an agnostic set with a wide grip chin up. Others on hear do not agree with that and have done research into it. I have not, but I still believe it would be beneficial.
Other than that some excercises that I use in my martial arts training which give me greater strength at edge of my range of flexibility - generally this is accomplished with isometric excercises with a bit of help from some weights. This also leads to greater flexibility.
I reckon cross training in martial arts would be good or pilates (not yoga so much as that is all static).
In reply to walts4: Thats sounds good to me Walts! How's tricks? You still down the caspian? Over in thailand on a DSV the now. Stopping in Italy(Finale Ligure) on the way home 24th May. LInky still aboard. How's life on the continent?
Cheers,
Lac
Cheers,
Lac
In reply to Will1991:
Climbing is my main form of exercise and I guess I climb maybe 2/3 days a week in the winter and 4/5 days a week in the summer (mainly routes outdoors or indoor bouldering). I try and supplement that with at least three extra non-climbing sessions a week (up to five if I havent climbed much) - these sessions will either be cycling to work (16 miles round trip), running (45mins - 1hr), 90 lengths of the swimming pool, or as a last resort, the gym.
So, I use the gym as a last resort, but in the winter particularly I can find myself there a couple of times a week. I mainly use the gym for cardio - either a pyramid session on the cross trainer, or 5km on the rowing machine, both provide a fairly intense 20 mins of exercise. I will then spend another 20mins doing opposition exercises to climbing, as generally it is the best opportunity I get to work these muscles.
Climbing is my main form of exercise and I guess I climb maybe 2/3 days a week in the winter and 4/5 days a week in the summer (mainly routes outdoors or indoor bouldering). I try and supplement that with at least three extra non-climbing sessions a week (up to five if I havent climbed much) - these sessions will either be cycling to work (16 miles round trip), running (45mins - 1hr), 90 lengths of the swimming pool, or as a last resort, the gym.
So, I use the gym as a last resort, but in the winter particularly I can find myself there a couple of times a week. I mainly use the gym for cardio - either a pyramid session on the cross trainer, or 5km on the rowing machine, both provide a fairly intense 20 mins of exercise. I will then spend another 20mins doing opposition exercises to climbing, as generally it is the best opportunity I get to work these muscles.
In reply to Will1991: been climbing for about 5-6 years and always kept cardio fit, but recently joined the works gym, which I use 3 times a week. Keeping it to aerobic exercise (bike / rower / crosstrainer etc. <150bpm) and have lost about 15lbs and pushed my climbing by 2 sports grades.
In reply to Will1991: I would strongly recommend the 300 work out. It involves pull ups, dead lifts, pressups, 24inch box jumps, floor wipers (really good for the core) and clean & press. It really works your upper body and your lower body to the extent that it needs to be. It also targets your abs and core. I’ve only been doing this for about 3 weeks know and I have already noticed a difference in my climbing and in appearance.
If you search 300 work out online then it shows all the exercises and how to do them with as much weight and Reps as well.
MB
If you search 300 work out online then it shows all the exercises and how to do them with as much weight and Reps as well.
MB
In reply to mitchellbowen1990:
So have you _really_ managed to do all 50 reps of each exercise (continuous) and are you lifting 135lbs on the deadlift and floor wipers? I'm mega impressed if you are after three weeks!
So have you _really_ managed to do all 50 reps of each exercise (continuous) and are you lifting 135lbs on the deadlift and floor wipers? I'm mega impressed if you are after three weeks!
In reply to Derbyshire Ben: They dont have to continuous! and i use 110 lbs not 135 lbs. have you read up about this work out?
In reply to Will1991: i used to go to the gym quite allot to work my arms, core and legs. being able to push your whole body weight plus rack off one leg whilst it is fully bent is quite useful.
however i found this made me get frustrated with how my climbing was coming on. instead i now go to the wall almost every day and traverse which builds up all those muscles i was working in the gym pluss my fingers and technique.
however i found this made me get frustrated with how my climbing was coming on. instead i now go to the wall almost every day and traverse which builds up all those muscles i was working in the gym pluss my fingers and technique.
In reply to Derbyshire Ben: Well i use to play alot of rugby and i use to do alot of weight traning so im quite strong from that already. When i read up about the 300 work out it said you had to do the entire work out as quick as you can and you could have breaks but you just needed to beat your last time from before.
MB
MB
In reply to Will1991:
whilst we are all talking about the 300:
the last day or 2 twight has posted a bit on the gymjones site in the schedule section precisely about where the gym stuff (in his eyes) fits in with climbing.
http://www.gymjones.com/schedule.php?date=20100418
what i (a hacker who just like climbing and training) think about the 300 as a workout:
ive not done it and am not sure i could. (the thought of 25 pullups after the other 275 reps scares me).
i use a lot of the exercises within it but in different contexts - to me big bouts of of a single exercise is a bit clunky and 'marine' like. if ime going to expend that amount of calories and time i think theres more effective things to do and ways of doing them thats specific to climbing (and i know the 300 doesnt claim to be).
id still do the reps, but id link them into less specific complexs and insert cv periods to delve into other weaknesses (litvinov style).
BUT as an occasional indicator of ones condition, particularly stamina and applied power, it could be good. i imagine it would root out any weaknesses pretty effectively. in a way its like a Yates complex (the oft held standards for lifters gauging their condition) for endurance oriented people.
like the name says, it would probably make a better spartan or cage fighter than it would climber - but done as part of a greater training system on occasion as a specific thing aside from pure power output, it could have a place.
i suppose now i gotta try it.
if you dont hear from me again you know what happened.
whilst we are all talking about the 300:
the last day or 2 twight has posted a bit on the gymjones site in the schedule section precisely about where the gym stuff (in his eyes) fits in with climbing.
http://www.gymjones.com/schedule.php?date=20100418
what i (a hacker who just like climbing and training) think about the 300 as a workout:
ive not done it and am not sure i could. (the thought of 25 pullups after the other 275 reps scares me).
i use a lot of the exercises within it but in different contexts - to me big bouts of of a single exercise is a bit clunky and 'marine' like. if ime going to expend that amount of calories and time i think theres more effective things to do and ways of doing them thats specific to climbing (and i know the 300 doesnt claim to be).
id still do the reps, but id link them into less specific complexs and insert cv periods to delve into other weaknesses (litvinov style).
BUT as an occasional indicator of ones condition, particularly stamina and applied power, it could be good. i imagine it would root out any weaknesses pretty effectively. in a way its like a Yates complex (the oft held standards for lifters gauging their condition) for endurance oriented people.
like the name says, it would probably make a better spartan or cage fighter than it would climber - but done as part of a greater training system on occasion as a specific thing aside from pure power output, it could have a place.
i suppose now i gotta try it.
if you dont hear from me again you know what happened.
In reply to mitchellbowen1990 & ice.solo
I'm not having a go, like I said I'm mega impressed if you are getting through 50 reps of each and 135lbs 'cos it's nails.
ice.solo - I'm currently trying to get some overall body power endurance for a surfing trip/expedition to Sumatra in May. Surfing trips are interesting from a training/physiology perspective as you need a fair bit of strength & power for paddling and you typically do two or three of two to three hour sessions each day for two weeks so need some of that all-day staying power.
The Gym Jones PE workouts and programmes are really good for this kind of overall conditioning and also snap you out of just exercising vs. genuinely training the system.
I'm not having a go, like I said I'm mega impressed if you are getting through 50 reps of each and 135lbs 'cos it's nails.
ice.solo - I'm currently trying to get some overall body power endurance for a surfing trip/expedition to Sumatra in May. Surfing trips are interesting from a training/physiology perspective as you need a fair bit of strength & power for paddling and you typically do two or three of two to three hour sessions each day for two weeks so need some of that all-day staying power.
The Gym Jones PE workouts and programmes are really good for this kind of overall conditioning and also snap you out of just exercising vs. genuinely training the system.
In reply to Derbyshire Ben:
interesting to hear this stuff applied to surfing.
as a teenager i lived at the same beach as tom and nick carrol, mark warren, nat young.
even tho they had reputations (especially the carrol brothers) as being boozing psychos, they trained hard - and not just by surfing every day.
lots of pull ups, sprinting in sand, free weights - the usual stuff and all backyard.
surfing too has a large 'just surfing for training' mentality, so maybe theres some cross over.
occasionally i see references to tom carrol now and hes still super fit (tho injury prone). in one of his big wave dvds it shows him training hard, along with laird hamilton who is famous for his tough training.
it all makes me think that for this theres a huge area of cross over thats just basically beneficial for anything.
being stronger and better connected wont hurt your climbing, and it makes you more injury resistant so you can climb more.
will gadd also, a cross fit advocate, has lots of interesting ideas on the subject on his blog.
interesting to hear this stuff applied to surfing.
as a teenager i lived at the same beach as tom and nick carrol, mark warren, nat young.
even tho they had reputations (especially the carrol brothers) as being boozing psychos, they trained hard - and not just by surfing every day.
lots of pull ups, sprinting in sand, free weights - the usual stuff and all backyard.
surfing too has a large 'just surfing for training' mentality, so maybe theres some cross over.
occasionally i see references to tom carrol now and hes still super fit (tho injury prone). in one of his big wave dvds it shows him training hard, along with laird hamilton who is famous for his tough training.
it all makes me think that for this theres a huge area of cross over thats just basically beneficial for anything.
being stronger and better connected wont hurt your climbing, and it makes you more injury resistant so you can climb more.
will gadd also, a cross fit advocate, has lots of interesting ideas on the subject on his blog.
In reply to ice.solo:
We're getting a bit off topic but I don't care because it's interesting. Tom Carroll's nickname was 'the surfing muscle' because whilst he probably wasn't the first to train for surfing he was certainly the most visible.
>surfing too has a large 'just surfing for training' mentality
That's definitely true, more so than rock climbing. Although the last few years have seen more pro surfers being public and explicit about training programmes.
>it all makes me think that for this theres a huge area of cross over thats just basically beneficial for anything.
Especially as one gets older....
We're getting a bit off topic but I don't care because it's interesting. Tom Carroll's nickname was 'the surfing muscle' because whilst he probably wasn't the first to train for surfing he was certainly the most visible.
>surfing too has a large 'just surfing for training' mentality
That's definitely true, more so than rock climbing. Although the last few years have seen more pro surfers being public and explicit about training programmes.
>it all makes me think that for this theres a huge area of cross over thats just basically beneficial for anything.
Especially as one gets older....
In reply to Derbyshire Ben:
impressed!
tommy carrolls name getting around in derbyshire - or did you spend a bit of time in newport too?
impressed!
tommy carrolls name getting around in derbyshire - or did you spend a bit of time in newport too?
In reply to mitchellbowen1990:
This has been a useful thread, I just did the 300 routine (but with 125lbs and a 20" box as I don't have enough weight and a tall enough box) in 43:31 but doing it as you described by getting through the 50 reps and 25 pullups in chunks of 25, 20, 10 or less. I took it steady hence the long time but it was _really_ hard and worthwhile going all the way through and over the finish line.
I'm going to leave it alone for a while and come back and have a proper go at it with fewer breaks and rests.
This has been a useful thread, I just did the 300 routine (but with 125lbs and a 20" box as I don't have enough weight and a tall enough box) in 43:31 but doing it as you described by getting through the 50 reps and 25 pullups in chunks of 25, 20, 10 or less. I took it steady hence the long time but it was _really_ hard and worthwhile going all the way through and over the finish line.
I'm going to leave it alone for a while and come back and have a proper go at it with fewer breaks and rests.
In reply to ice.solo:
Nah no time in Newport. If you've surfed for a long time then Carroll is one of the greats. I'm a goofy footer as well so I always took note of him and his style.
Nah no time in Newport. If you've surfed for a long time then Carroll is one of the greats. I'm a goofy footer as well so I always took note of him and his style.
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