UKC

I've just come back from the Stronghold Blokfest, which was epic, although I got shut down on the tiny dual texture footholds on the slab problems (7 and 13 in particular are etched onto my mind). Given that Gaz & co use the same holdset for all the Blokfests I don't think these are going to go away.

Does anyone have any tips or drills to help standing on these? I normally climb at the Castle, so I can practice on them.....

In reply to binaryboy:

Wipe chalk off the hold. Make sure the soles of your shoes are clean. Climb.

In reply to binaryboy:

>I got shut down on the tiny dual texture footholds on the slab problems.

Brilliant, aren't they?

In reply to binaryboy:

I find rubbing my metal chalk bag biner over the smooth bits helps

In reply to binaryboy:

You need stronger feet... Most people seem to expect putting a foot on a hold is enough for it to stick... However, on marginal footholds you need to use your feet to grip them along with good body position, etc.

In reply to binaryboy:

You just have to.... Believe!

In reply to JIMBO:

It’s mostly due to people having chronically tight calves. A dual tex or smeggy marginal bobble footholds are usually is best dealt with by dropping the heels, maintaining pressure and not over reaching (causing the heel to lift).

In reply to binaryboy:

Climb outside more, it's great training for these sort of indoor routes .

Get your weight over the hold, drop your heel and grip with the foot. Also keep your shoes clean.

In reply to binaryboy:

Wear the right shoes. On almost all of those cheeta dual tex you want a fairly soft shoe, or a really really worn in stiffer one. There are a couple that you need to edge on but I do all the testing for blokfest in either trainers, (way better than any rock boot currently available for volumes), and well worn scarpa dragos. I have a pair of VSR’s in reserve in case I have to edge on something but certainly at the last round they didn’t come out of the bag.