UKC

I'm thinking of setting up a bit of a training spot in my garage. 

Due to space limitations of 10'x10' I was thinking a system board.

I'm looking for any advice from people who have made their own. Sizes, timber used  holds etc etc 

Any dos and donts? 

Don't get a system board . Much more fun setting different problems.

Could combine varied holds for problem setting with a number of holds set out in a system with that sort of area. Small footholds is key. I have recently disassembled 10yr old wall in garage that was just shy of 25degrees. Got loads of use out of it. Advantages of 25(ish) is potential for circuits. 18mm ply was a bit overkill I thought, expensive and weighs a load, although I see a lot of people recommend this.

Set up a system board, you can tag holds on it with coloured tape if you want to set up problems as well, so have the best of both worlds. However the system board will address imbalances which never get solved by just climbing.

25 to 30 degrees , 18 mm ply. I don’t bother drilling and setting t. nuts anymore as I just use screw ons. You want the training rather than sore skin to be the limiting factor, so wooden holds. Beastmaker, Session, Crusher are all good. Hardwoodholds have very good sets and their small dome footholds are excellent. Just as important is decent lighting and heating. It’s important to want to go in there!

if you do end up using plastic holds, then Euroholds and Beacon are good sources at reasonable prices

paul

I would personally go for a decent woody - get the grips from hardwood holds. Ideally adjustable angle so you can variate between power and endurance as suits. 

Personally I think system boards (as the symmetrical, static position holding kind are far far less valuable than a decent woody which has basically infinite setups. You can pull the holds off every 6-12 months and have a brand new board in the space of a few hours. It's by far the most effective single training tool on offer (seconded by the campus board). 

Hope this helps!