/ How long to break in a beastmaker?
I have just bought a beastmaker 2000.
Prior to purchase, I tested out how long I could hang the bottom corner holds on a bm2000 at the wall. 3 tests, each 15sec.
On the new board, I am managing 5 sec. I was more tired not recovered from a wall session but the difference is quite large.
How long (or how many sessions) until my new board picks up enough mank for me to hang it?
Are the reported gains from finger boarding not actually strength gains but the board improving through use?
You don't break in the beastmaker...
The boards don’t improve quickly. I got the neurological gains in a month or two and the board was still be very slippy. Even after a solid year of regular use it was still hard compared to wall boards.
Swap it for the one at your local wall?
I have to agree with Deadeye. Your performance on any piece of equipment is simply relative to that equipment. If you hang for 5 seconds on your home board, then that is your home benchmark. Don't compare it to your local walls BM2 performance. You haven't got weaker but improving to 15 secs + x at the wall and 5 secs + x at home equate to improvement. Why you are hanging for 15 seconds is another discussion altogether...
Anecdotal: I can walk into any wall and do x amount pull ups etc on the 35 degree sloper anytime without warm up. At home, I need to turn heating off, open the doors and use liquid chalk to use the 35..... It's the benchmark that is important...
Without a doubt it is the bench mark which is important.
I knew there would be a differential but I was a little surprised by its size hence my question about the breaking in period.
Take some mid-grain sandpaper to it (carefully!) and afterwards a stiff brush (not wire) and a decent amount of chalk and scrub hard along the grain of the wood. This will bring out the grain which is what makes the wall boards so much more grippy. The difference is substantial.
Your home board is never going to get as much traffic as a public one at the wall unless you're wasting a *lot* of time on it when you'd be better off climbing.
I've had my BM 1000 at home for years and have done 3,000 sets on it since I started saddo obsessive-compulsive logging (and plenty before that) and there's still a good 10kg plus difference between what I can hang at home and at the wall. Like Fishmate, I can do repeaters on the 35 slopers at the wall & can barely hang them at all at home.
On second thoughts, maybe we need a conspiracy theory here. Do walls tilt their beastmakers back a degree or two to make them ego-inflatingly soft?
Check the angle of both boards. You can download a clinometer app for your phone.
The thought had crossed my mind, it is wood resin after all.
Not sure why you got dislikes. MischaHY has provided a solution to the op's problem. I agree with that. Personally, I'm prepared to suffer more on my home boards. It helps get the try hard switch turned on in pre season.
I think the dislikes may come from the interchangeability if dislike and disagree evident on here. Kind of a mtfu and get on with it.
Thanks for the tip Misha, I will give the board a chance for a while.
The 15 sec you questioned earlier was benchmarking.
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