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most rented flat friendly hangboard? (least damag

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 RatKing 08 Dec 2020

Hi all,

I've just moved to Glasgow from London and am going to have to get some new training stuff for my flat as rules regarding climbing gyms are stricter than here in London.

I'm currently looking at a non doorway/arch pull up bar, so a free standing one. I'm also hoping to get my first hangboard and similarly want to avoid putting it on a doorway etc to cause as little damage that I'll get billed for as possible. Any specific recommendations for someone who really wants to avoid damaging their doors etc?

Also if it's possible to somehow mount a hangboard on a free standing hangboard that would interest me a lot so I can use the space as effeciently as possible.

 ianstevens 08 Dec 2020
In reply to RatKing:

Build two A frames, join them together to make a fake doorframe, and attach your hang board?

 Marek 08 Dec 2020
In reply to RatKing:

Not exactly what you asked for, but another option is what I cobbled together for my son in a similar situation. Screw hangboard to a piece of decking planking the width of the door. Then use a couple of large G-clamps to hold the plank in place above the door frame with another plank on the other side of the door. The planks had some thin hard foam on the door side to avoid scuff damage. It seemed to work reasonably well, although getting it in place with just two hands was a bit of a juggling trick!

 mrmann007 08 Dec 2020
In reply to RatKing:

I had the same issue in that I knew my landlord would lose it if I had screwed a hangboard in to the wall or damaged the doorframes. I purchased the below squat rack:

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/6195414?clickSR=slp:term:mens%20health%20pu...

Then mounted the hangboard to a piece of wood, which then hooks over the bar using these:

https://www.diy.com/departments/rothley-black-steel-tubular-storage-hook/27...

Granted, it is a more expensive option just to hang a hangboard, but at least you can also do pull ups in various positions and with added weight, knowing its not going to cause any damage. 

 Mike Nolan 08 Dec 2020
In reply to RatKing:

Again not quite what you asked for, but I've been using a Crusher Mount for about 18 months now (on flimsy doorframes!) and not had any problems at all. 

http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboard-hangboard-mounting-device-2
 

I've also got a client who uses a Powerstation, but they're quite expensive. You could probably build your own similar version with some DIY skills and a couple of hours. 

https://powerstationtraining.com/

 probablylost 09 Dec 2020
In reply to Mike Nolan:

+1 for the crusher mount. It's good enough that when I bought a house and could drill as many holes as I wanted I just carried on using it.

 PaulJepson 09 Dec 2020
In reply to RatKing:

I bought some key-clamp tubes and joints for about £80. With that and a bit of plywood, I made a free-standing set-up. Great for pull-ups, hangs, fingerboarding and TRX stuff. 

 jack89 09 Dec 2020
In reply to Mike Nolan:

Another plug for the Crusherholds mount. Mine is still fine and has successfully been through four rented homes since 2013. I do a lot of weighted pull-ups and hangs on it. I've added more holds and you can hang a TRX easily as well. I love that it's the perfect height for me to do foot-on-floor stamina work without further blocks to get the intensity right.

 afx22 09 Dec 2020
In reply to RatKing:

I have two of the Crusher mounts and they are great.  

Another option might be to build something that you can hang from the loft hatch.

 Marek 09 Dec 2020
In reply to afx22:

> Another option might be to build something that you can hang from the loft hatch.

... or from the top of the stairwell (depending on architecture of the stairs).

 McHeath 09 Dec 2020
In reply to RatKing:

Hi RatKing, I had the same problem - no screws or marks on walls/paintwork allowed, so here's my solution:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/191337927@N05/U8SsbF

I cut a board to size and put felt strips on anywhere which would be in contact with the door frame. The whole thing has to be a really snug fit to prevent any sideways movement. The two 50mm x 30mm vertical supports are also cut exactly to the right length and only need a single nut each to keep them in place, since they're only coping with a vertical downward force.

The rear stabiliser is important as it clamps the board into the door frame, preventing any tipping motion. 

I built the board with 3 main hold widths of 40mm, 30mm and 20mm, also cutting slopers into each strip. I use small strips of wood to reduce the depth of the 30mm edge, giving me further optional widths of (at the moment) 18mm, 15mm and 12mm.

The board's been in use since March, with great results and not a scratch on the paintwork!

Post edited at 13:55
1
 Iamgregp 09 Dec 2020
In reply to RatKing:

Just fix one up as you would normally and then wood filler/polyfilla and repaint the holes before you leave, do a neat enough job and you won't even be able to see where the holes once were.  What they won't know hurt them.  

They'll probably find some other excuse to screw you out of some of your deposit anyway, so f*ck 'em.

(yes I'm no fan of London landlords!)

1
 Lewis Robinson 10 Dec 2020
In reply to RatKing:

There is a company called tangerine holds, who have made a hangboard system that haha from a strange and does no damage, and you can put whatever hangboard your want in it called the hangutan 

https://www.tangerineholds.co.uk/product-page/naked-hangutan-no-holds-inclu... 


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