UKC

Planning a trip to the peaks for some trad but need a back up plan if the weather turns.

Which wall is better ?

Mainly lead climbing or top rope, Not really interested in bouldering tbh

Also what length of rope would be needed for each wall

Thanks in advance 

In reply to david_angus:

Awesome. Cleaner, more space, nicer holds, nicer place to be. 40m rope if you want to climb the big roof I think. 30m otherwise might be just about ok.

Foundry I find cramped, busy, sweaty, polished, dirty and cliquey. But plenty of people love it.

In reply to david_angus:

foundry - 30m rope

Although they were some building work on the main lead wall, so worth ringing first to check if this has finished.

In reply to david_angus:

Foundry is having the main wall rebuilt at the minute so I'd check where they're up to with that; it may make the decision for you. 

TBH, I didn't think I was interested in indoor bouldering either until I went to The Works. I'd choose that over any of the roped centres.

In reply to PaulJepson:

I'd second that. After moving away from north Wales and the beacon I've found both the foundry and aw pretty underwhelming.

In reply to Mowglee:

Fairly sure they always used to say 50m for the biggest lines on the roof. Though I did reckon that left a fair amount of slack, so maybe they're playing it safe and 40m is just about sufficient. I'd definitely knot the end though!

In reply to david_angus:

Or, if you're in the Western Peak, Awesome Walls Stockport for lead: some good long vertical walls (up to c.24m).

In reply to PaulJepson:

yer i saw that on socials, but not seen any update to say if they've completed renovations etc

In reply to david_angus:

funnily enough we were in this position yesterday and went to Awesome in Sheffield. We had a really good time, lots of space, excellent route setting, chilled atmosphere. No dramas getting fully signed up inc two 16yos.

In reply to david_angus:

The foundry's instagram seems to show the construction is still ongoing. 

I really enjoy the main wall at AW.  Jug hauling through a ceiling doesn't help my peak limestone performance, but it sure is fun

In reply to Luke90:

A 40m rope is sufficient for AW- I think it is 24m up and 14m down BUT tie a knot in the end because there is a tendency for the belayer to walk a long way back from the base to see the action and this eats into the reserve.

In reply to david_angus:

Awesome walls has a greater range of routes and walls but the atmosphere is appalling. Terrible music. Foundry has limited route choice, but the overall vibe is more welcoming and better than AW. 

Depends what you're after. I much prefer the Foundry for the old school charm of the place; it feels like the wall where I first learnt to climb, like it has a history, and a soul. AW always just looks a bit like a hospital entrance hall to me. Foundry can be a bit cramped when busy and when it has clubs on though (but not worse than a busy London wall). 

Perhaps more pertinently, for TR, I much, much prefer the setting at the Foundry; it can be a sandbag (and has the massive drawback that they only seem to reset about once a decade) but you get clever, thoughtful setting in the 5s/6s which makes you want to try again. I really don't feel like AW put as much effort into their TR setting; it always feels very reachy but not technically interesting, more like a treadmill unfortunately. Perhaps they're just focused on higher grade lead-?

I haven't led much at the Foundry but AW has a lot more lead options and resets more, which is a massive pro. If you like taller walls, also AW definitely.

I think I essentially feel like AW gives you mileage and Foundry gives you quality. For bouldering, other than how busy it is (for climbing and parking), the Works is indeed fabulous.

Oh and I can walk to the Foundry and then accidentally fall into the Fat Cat after; this is a significant advantage! 

In reply to pancakeandchips:

Thirded. This seems to be part of the same, weird Sheffield paradox where there are so many world-class climbers and events like Cliffhanger and WTF and Crackfest and whatnot here, but no proper gear shop. I still don't get it.  

In reply to david_angus:

Foundry build work is due to finish late August.

In reply to ro8x:

The bouldering at the Foundry is also orders of magnitude better than AW. 

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Sometimes the music at AW is really good. Bouldering at Foundry is good but limited. Bouldering at AW is terrible. Routes at Foundry are well set but unchanged for far too long and get dirty. For lead or particularly auto belay I prefer AW ( but occasionally Foundry for a change) and for bouldering the Depot as both best (for me) for conditioning training. 

In reply to kevin stephens:

I've moved up to Cumbria now. I really liked the Depot, but it does concentrate a bit on power over technique. Whenever I go to the Climbing Works, the route setting really puts a smile on my face

In reply to paul_in_cumbria: Sure, but being old and weak I need to work on power and flab more than technique. I may visit the Works again soon hopefully to prove my self assessment

In reply to david_angus:

Thanks all, 

Looking like i'm gonna check out AW this weekend as weather looks pretty terrible. 

In reply to Mowglee:

I second this. 👍

In reply to kevin stephens:

I go to the Depot for bouldeing - I am known to go to Sheffield just to climb at The Depot. 🙂

In reply to pancakeandchips:

I did the first day of my CWI training at The Beacon and have lead climbed there back in May. Guess where I have booked my assessment in November?

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Same.

In reply to david_angus:

Another quick question, Are all AW lead routes pre bolted with permanent quick draws , or should i bring my set as well ? 

Thanks once again 

In reply to david_angus:

Yes, pre placed quickdraws are in place.

In reply to Queen of the Traverse:

Pre Climbing Works, when Percy was the route setter at the Edge, then that was the place to go also

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

I think not bouldering at all is better than the bouldering at AW. I have no idea how they have such a big space for it and manage to do it so badly.

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Edge was a brilliant wall, such a shame it's gone now. That handcrack in the cave was brilliant!

In reply to david_angus:

All are good for different things, I know you asked about ropes but with such good bouldering facilities here don't write it off:

AW - not bouldered there for a while but found it generally underwhelming last time I did.  Auto belay routes are good.  Lead stuff good but grades a bit all over the place.  Steep roof that is really good fun but not really like anything you are going to climb on in the Peak so maybe better for holiday training than local stuff.

Foundry - Bouldering most similar to Peak lime and great training for it, limited space but often not too busy, I enjoy bouldering on the wave more than anywhere else indoors.  Routes good and consistently graded with itself but maybe harsh compared to elsewhere but that's fine.  Main lead wall currently out of action due to maintenance but apparently back to normal by Sept.  Auto belays good but can get busy when school groups in during the week.

Depot - Loads of space, really good training facilities, problems basic and powerful at the grade.  Great circuit boards.  In the winter its the only wall open late on a Sunday eve but I don't know about summer. I really enjoy going here.

Works - the problems are fun and interesting and if I just climbed indoors I'd want these but I prefer the depot style basic and burly for training.  Can be very busy, particularly with a younger crowd.  There is a new bit I've not been to yet that I suspect is good for the higher grade range.  Mini works excellent for the kids, best in Sheffield for them.  The kids club staff are very good too.

Hanger - circuit board not great but otherwise a bit like the depot but without the luxury of space.  If I was over that way I'd just go to the depot.

Hope that helps

In reply to Queen of the Traverse:

I think most people just go to Outside in Hathersage - its a bit pricey but the staff are knowledgeable and they only stock things that are worth using.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Last time I went to Sheffield I went to Outside for lunch and to try look around. Instead of getting tht train I got the 272 Peak bus from Interchange to Hathersage - I also did the reverse on the way back. 

I ❤️ Outside. 

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Yeah I know, it's just a shame not to have anywhere decent in town as it's impossible to get there in the week and I miss lunchtime gear browsing! (My bank account might not, ofc...)