UKC

Warning the following might get nerdy!..

So, I’ve just started training for a 2 week trip to Siurana at the end of Feb. I have trained from about March to now in a non-linear way with lots of outdoor climbing at the weekends and a few trips. I’ve worked with a slightly adapted approach to the logical progression approach outlined by Steve Bechtel in his book with the same title. This has worked pretty well for me but I am still planning on switching to a more periodised and structured approach to prepare for Siurana. I’ve worked with the Alex Barrows pdf before and had varying success with it. However it did work well last year and if i have a trip to work towards I think I can stick to it. 

Last time I just stuck to the phases and workouts that Alex suggests but I was wondering if any special focus would make the plan even more suitable as prep for Siurana? 

As a weakling who always finds hard moves hard and prefers more easier moves, this will also be my focus on Siurana. Mainly looking to redpoint rather than onsight. Looking at routes like l’escamarla but maybe a bit harder(?) (did this and a few other of this style last trip and hoping to better this this time) Interested in pren nota, minimal techno, la crema and maybe even (have a look at) zona zero. 

Any training and possibly route tips would be great  

Thanks !!

rambling over

But La Rambla here we come. 

Have you been before? Because most of it is not really steep and basically lots of crimps. So lots of fingerstrengh and techy footwork. Especially for la crema. 

Edit: well bar the obviously steep stuff around la rambla et al

bump

You could consider having a chat with Lattice? Their new lite plan is £80 for 12 weeks and would likely make a big impact. 

I'd just stick to the Barrows PDF. Over 12 weeks following that plan religiously I improved my sport climbing by about 4 grades for both onsight and redpoint.

This piqued my interest because who wouldn't want to improve 4 grades in 12 weeks! I've been plateaued for a while. I found and read the pdf. Did you use the example training plan on page 8? 

Siurana is almost all power-endurance on crimps, on vertical to slightly overhanging walls. So focus on that.

I only improved by 1-2 grades over my peak from the previous year (from 7a+ redpoint to 7b/7b+), but 3-4 grades from a relatively strong but unfit state (6c+/7a) prior to beginning the 12 week training.

I had 13 weeks and followed the example plan to the letter, except that my aero cap training was probably a touch too intense due to only having the depots circuit board (20-30 mins on and more pumped than I should have been). Whenever i do it again I'll probably not change much unless it's for a particular style/angle and then I'd maybe make it more specific