UKC

/ Training programs with autobelay

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gavjwp - on 09 Jun 2018

Has anyone got training programs using an auto belay they'd like to share?

jezb1 - on 09 Jun 2018
In reply to gavjwp:

What do you want to train?

Auto belays work well for endurance training, doing 4x4s and 3 ish out of 5 pump level.

AlanLittle - on 09 Jun 2018
In reply to gavjwp:

If you can get them more or less to yourself when it's quiet they're quite good for aerobic capacity mileage. For example you can do moderate route 4x4's.

  • 4 routes, or same route 4 times, back to back pausing only for the time it takes to lower off
  • rest a few minutes
  • repeat 4 or more times

... without needing a belayer who is willing to be bored stupid.

gavjwp - on 09 Jun 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

Ive been doing 4x4s. Just wondering if there's anything else. 

My aims:

1. Lose weight

2. Get climbing fit after many years off. 

3. Build up  endurance / power endurance.

 

Getting tired and big drop performance after an hour of climbing. (About 6 routes indoors)

jezb1 - on 09 Jun 2018
In reply to gavjwp:

> My aims:

> 1. Lose weight 

 there’s better ways than climbing - swimming running cycling

> 2. Get climbing fit after many years off. 

 the 4x4s are ideal for climbing fitness - endurance

> 3. Build up  endurance / power endurance.

as above 4x4s are great for endurance and it’s the quickest thing to gain as well. For power endurance you’re prob better on the bouldering wall, for example max effort 4x4s

 


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