UKC

Hello, 

I was gifted some Lattice training tools and would like to get the most out of them. The items are; 

- Quad Block with lifting pin

- Mini Bar

- Heavy roller

Does anyone have any resources or advice on how to structure a training session off these items. 
I also have a Beastmaker 1000 hang board which I am only following YouTube 'follow along' videos on. 

I am aiming to become a stronger climber through using these items as well from the indoor and outdoor climbing but I have very little knowledge of 'how to train' or 'plan a training programme', I just climb. My weekly routine would allow two weekday sessions (indoor or outdoors) and many evenings which would allow home training. 

After a rather long break in climbing, I have broken down my goals into: 

Short term (8 months) : Finish the calendar year with 50+ multi-pitch climbs including 'A Dream of White Horses', also 20+ Sport Climbs

Medium term (1.5 years) : Be comfortable climbing 6b (Sport & Trad), V5 (bouldering indoor only) and HVS (Trad). 

Long term (2 years) : Be knocking on the door of 7a (Sport & Trad), and E2 (Trad).

Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this and I look forward to your responses. 

I think the best thing to do would be to get in contact with a professional coach and ask them to put together a training plan.  

I've got very good results from Neil Gresham's personalised plans, and have heard good things about Lattice too.

Really good that you've thought about this and have some specific goals, that's the first thing Neil Gresham asked when he put together a plan for me, so it's good to be specific, rather than just say "erm... be better at climbing?" like I did!

I'm not sure what you mean by "6b (sport and trad)", given you specifically then mention HVS (which is a lot easier than a trad route with Fr6b climbing on it).

But anyway, the 3 things you've got are basically all just pickup devices, right? Treat them like a fingerboard - warm up, then set a weight you can pick up and hold for 7-10 seconds and gradually push the weight up as you adapt. Aim to work a few different grips in a session (a pinch, an open hand and a half crimp, say). Don't do this the same day as a climbing day, probably aim for once or twice a week in addition to your two existing sessions to take you to 3-4 sessions total.

Spot on thank you. I'll keep researching specifics like you say about different grips etc. 

To expand on the goals: 6b in sport, as standard and then 6b in trad, the adjective grade removed there are some climbs with local adjective and high technical so I guess its just being comfortable climbing the technical and not having to worry about the headspace too much for the adjective. 

So you mean french 6b sport and English 6b moves, or you mean french 6b sport and top roping trad routes that are french 6b to toprope? Just curious.

To be honest, didn't know there was a difference. I thought the technical grade was always focussed around French grades. I don't know what makes a climb French 6b so I wouldn't know the difference between French 6b and English 6b moves. 

If you are able to expand on it, or share any resources please do. 

The route grades at the wall are French grades, as are all the sport route grades in the UK. The technical grade of a trad route is an 'English' (British actually) grade. Although they look similar there is not much relation between them and they tell you very different things.

Have a look at this;

https://rockfax.com/wp-content/uploads/pdfs/Single_Grade_Conversion_2021.pd...

(on this chart 'Sport Grade = French Grade')

French grades are a measure of overall physical difficulty of the entire route (combining the difficulty of the hardest moves with the level of sustainedness of the climb) whereas British technical grades are a measure only of the hardest move (and are so wide as to be largely useless at 6b and above).

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British tech 6b (i.e. trad grades) will equate to 7bish give or take French grades (I.e sport grades) so quite a difference! 

In terms of goals, it's tricky to be an all-rounder, the best training for HVS trad will be doing loads of trad, especially adventurous routes like DOWH, i really dont think lattice stuff will help with this sort of thing. Trad will make you weak for sport and bouldering! I can feel myself loosing bouldering strength through the summer but my trad confidence increasing. Typically I focus on bouldering/training in the winter and trad in the summer with sport whenever I can't get out on the trad.