/ UKC Fit Club 629

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Tom Green on 07 Apr 2019

Hi All.

Bit of a late one... sorry if you've been champing at the bit (like the topical horse-racing reference?!) to post your weeks successes? And I hope you have got successes to report, as there won't be any in my post this week!

Thanks for all the answers to last week's questions -really interesting to see the variety in everyone's responses. No real conclusions to be drawn other than that it seems everyone is realistic about what they would benefit most from in an ideal world, but pragmatic about the tactics for getting best results in the real world.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502  3 4 

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_628-702662

Posters:

AJM -Nice work with the Ruckle trad, especially if the grease came in. I must admit to dismissing this 'south coast grease' thing as a lame excuse, until I encountered it myself for the first time! Did you get out again this weekend? 

Tom Green -Good week last week -especially as you forgot to record a two hour run last Saturday! Need to start building more prehab in now that the climbing specific training volume is up.

Ianstevens -Looks like a solid week of pre-trip training. Sad to hear you couldn't make the climbing work whilst you're away, but I applaud the commitment to packing the hangboard! Look forward to hearing about the running achievements.

Somerset Swede Basher -Well done for getting Shit done! Looks like a good productive week of getting amongst it. I always forget about the Secret Garden and Mother Cap -need to get across there to settle a score with Conan the Librarian! Did this week see some more quality sessions?

biscuit -so, how was it? haute or naute?!

Alan Little -Looks like some good lessons in strategy last week -I particularly enjoyed your Tuesday lesson! Has 'Up-the-ante-April' got off to a good first week? And are you back on the pistol squat wagon?

guy127917 -Yep, feel your pain about a busy wall being almost impossible for doing a structured session. Did you manage to beat the crowds for some AnCap this week? Also, how was the running discipline?

SFrancis -Well done cheating the lurgy and still getting some good sessions in. Did you manage to get out again this week and if so, did you choose more cruxy routes? It's always a tough call at the crag as to whether to choose routes that play to your strengths or work your weaknesses... I guess a mix of both is the way to go!

Ardo -We should go back to tag-team Charming Crack at some point (preferably before it gets too warm)! Any more runs this week or did last week's put you off? I reckon after not running for a while it takes 3 or 4 runs to get over the 'this is shiiiiiiiit' period and then it starts feeling a bit more rewarding! 

Powerpuff -Glad you've got the bike situation sorted -it must have felt nice being able to bike to and from the wall? Good effort with the fingerboarding -do you find openhanded hangs easier or harder than half-crimp? 

the sheep -Nice mileage! On track for a 2000 mile year? Hope you managed to stay Noro-free despite the high challenge all around you -although it might help with getting tri-suit shaped! How's the red wine avoidance going?

mattrm -Good to see the percentages keeping healthy. More of the same this week? I've been thinking about your big trip goal for this year... what specific training do you think would help? Are you planning on building swimming in to your week?

alexm198 -Hard lines last week. Glad to hear you are less livid now! Did you manage to get some good therapeutic hill days in this weekend?

Cyan -Sometimes it seems like one bout of illness predisposes the next, then that the next, in a bit of a cycle of doom. Even more frustrating when you're generally pretty healthy. Hope this week has seen you break the cycle and get back out on rock this weekend?  

Tyler -So is the torture attic up and running now? What about the bike? (I feel like your week's training has been fairly 'infrastructure-reliant'!

Bones -Sounds like solid bouldering progress indoors. And with the new sticky feet it'll surely transfer to those Gardoms grudge-matches! Have you just casually ticked your pull-up goal without even realising it?

climb that pitch -Great goals! And given last week's ticklist I'd say you're well placed to get those routes over this summer. Now you're upping the focus on rock climbing, what are your strengths and weaknesses? Are there any types of routes you tend to avoid?! 

Ally Smith -How's the recovery been? Back to normal yet? Looking forward to seeing a trad ticklist… I assume it's going to have some Nesscliffe routes on! Did you get sorted for Bowderstone this weekend?

Lornajkelly -Welcome back! It sounds like you've had an action packed time away. That N Wales rock is pretty great. Have you got any routes in mind for when you are back over that way?

MIA: Rebecca Ting,  Planetmarshall

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Tyler - on 07 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom

> So is the torture attic up and running now? What about the bike? (I feel like your week's training has been fairly 'infrastructure-reliant'!

A bad workman and all that! I got some TRX in the week and proudly demoed the frame to my wife in an attempt to win her over, unfortunately it toppled over (I was saved from pitching down the stairs by the frame jamming against the ceiling) so there is still work to do. I get my bike back tomorrow.

M: Nothing

T: House of pain, nothing to report

W: Decided to see if I could go for a run, it turns out I couldn't but not because of my hip but because I was knackered after about 30 meters. I persevered by briskly walking up the hill and then breaking into the occasional trot on the way back. Let's call it 45 mins Z1 and as it hailed while I was out I got the full TFTNA experience!

T: House of pain, nothing to report

F: Nowt

S: Malham, warmer than forecast, a couple of dogged goes on Space Race and had a furtle of the crux of Space Invaders - disappointingly but entirely predictably I was miles off. Them had a quick look at the Highlife as there was a TR in situ. Unpleasant and possibly hard.

S: Circuits at Depot 11x 6b to 7a+ although I fell off all the 7a I tried. 

Post edited at 22:53
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AlanLittle - on 08 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom. Ante upped on the route mileage; slow but steady on the pistols

STG: Left leg pistol squat.
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project 
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

M: Bike one hour.
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Ticked my ideal 7a proj, almost like real climbing: short desperate crux in the middle, with the rest about 6b/+. But then also did some proper endurance training on proper plastic pumpfests. My dedication pales in comparison to my friend who later announced in the bar that he turned down a job offer in Frankfurt because the climbing walls there aren't up to scratch.
W: Bike one hour. 
   An hour mobility, stretching, pistol progressions.
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. More route mileage.
F: Rest day
S: Wall, Freimann. Bouldering. Feels more important for maintaining a more diverse movement repertoire than on routes, rather than primarily strength. But worthwhile either way.
S: Wall, Freimann. Routes. Felt like I was going well, but was on freshly set routes with grades even more all over the place than usual, so hard to be sure.

Dear Routesetters
Red, orange and pink on the same line: really absolutely necessary?

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AJM - on 08 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> AJM -Nice work with the Ruckle trad, especially if the grease came in. I must admit to dismissing this 'south coast grease' thing as a lame excuse, until I encountered it myself for the first time! Did you get out again this weekend? 

Definitely a real thing when it's there! I think it feels worse because there's less of the spiky grey sort of stuff you get at Pembroke - plenty of Pembroke can get greasy, but you can often get around it by getting on the spiky grey instead.

I didn't get out this weekend - all week it had looked overcast and fundamentally more "ok" than really inspiring. So we decided to look at new cars and do some other household admin. At the last minute the sun ended up coming through, but on the other hand at least we've banked the admin work and it won't have to be done on a future weekend. Apparently the caterpillars are out already though! Doom!

Monday - rest. Maybe some stretching?

Tuesday - wall. Again some decent volume, tried a few trickier things but no real success to note. Also went on a coaching course at work; for one of the sessions I used climbing goals as my example, which led me to the realisation that if I really want to maximise my chances on the trad rather than just trying reasonably hard but with a decent volume of excuses banked (tricky to explain written down, but sort of that decision as to whether you really want to remove any of the excuses apart from "I wasn't good enough" or whether it's easier to put in a bit less effort and have the "well, it's so busy, with the child you know..." card to fall back on) I need to fall off some things, and I need to get on some of the things I habitually avoid - foot on campus (avoided for 12 months since it caused my elbow to flare up last year) and aerobic fingerboard training (I just loathe it). Easy to do at home, time effecient, effective.

Wednesday - 5 on 3 off as per Crimpd on the FoC. Intensity way higher than they suggested, aerocap not recovery, but useful timings to give structure.

Thursday - off work ill. Hip flexibility session as per Crimpd.

Friday - still off work ill, although a bit better by evening. Nothing this time.

Saturday - car shopping and other admin. Got carried away with this and whilst I should have done some training I didn't.

Sunday - solid session at the wall to make up for it. Cleaned up all but one of the things I'd been struggling with on Tuesday, and made some progress on that one, more volume, did some circuits. Back feeling wasted and skin pretty sore by the end.

Climbing friend visiting this weekend, so hoping to get something reasonable done. Prob try to pack in a few days midweek then rest Friday (or Thurs/Fri) to make sure I can make the most of it.

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Ally Smith on 08 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for stats Tom. No trad this weekend - didn't sort partners in time. Hopefully found a keen bean for evening sessions at Nesscliffe though?

Predictably, after a month off, my session stamina was atrocious and I could really feel it the following day. Glad I got out on Sunday though, even if it was just "project shopping"...

Week 14

M – After work decorating club

T – After work 240mile drive

W – Funeral & 240mile return drive. Emotionally drained and physically knackered after all the solo driving.

T – Sneaked in a max-hang test session. 10s max BW+55kg. 5s max BW+65kg. Brief aero-cap 7/3/6/1 x6 @BW-15kg. Felt quite hard!

F – Rest. Edited various footage from climbing at Nuda's during the unseasonably warm February weather:  https://www.vimeo.com/327703119  

and also https://www.vimeo.com/321963327

S – Anston Stones. 6x >7A boulders. Good to have a selection of tings to attempt a flash on, even if many of them didn’t some to fruition. Walked away with 2x 7C projects which wasn’t part of the plan!

S – Forearms felt blasted from Saturday - muscle strain/DOMS like sensations. More DIY then afternoon trip to the Orme in a 3. Cleaned and tried the moves on a newbie on UPT that I bolted 12 mths ago. Start is easier than expected courtesy of some knee beta, but the crux is harder than thought. Going to need some WideBoyz style roof crack mono strength (and a bucket load of finger tape). LPT was mingingly greasy, so had just a single dog up Over the Moon Direct. Only 1 move I couldn’t fathom.

I hope to be back on the training wagon this week

Post edited at 10:23
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Lornajkelly - on 08 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Lornajkelly -Welcome back! It sounds like you've had an action packed time away. That N Wales rock is pretty great. Have you got any routes in mind for when you are back over that way?

Cheers Tom.

Basically my 666 goal is to lead 5 VSs - probably mostly going to be on Tremadog - Princess (because Gesail is a little less of a victim of its own quality that Bwlch y Moch and Pant Ifan can be), One Step, Shadrach, The Brothers, Grim Wall etc.  

No running this week while I recovered from the burnout but I had a great wall session on Thursday, leading a 5 very cleanly (after bottling a 5 at the Beacon during my RCI course with the instructor and the rest of the blokes on the course stood watching) and smashing a couple of 6as on top rope.  That'll do my confidence no end of good and I reckon the next time I'm over in Wales I'll try leading a Sev.

Back at the running tomorrow.

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Somerset swede basher - on 08 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom.  This week has mostly been spent trying one problem that broke me before I managed to get it done.

Mon. Rest.

Tues. Raven Tor, decided to get back on Girl Band.  I tried this for a couple of sessions last year but I couldn't do the crux.  Please to get the crux today first session back after the winter's training, the crux is basically only 2 moves but its hard.  Got the start wired too.  The whole problem is really long, 18 moves with the crux in the middle.  Did one link start to crux but fell off at the 2nd crux move.

Wed. Back to the Tor, felt tired.  Spent ages trying to do the last 3 moves and couldn't then eventually realised there was a 'good bit'.

Thurs. Rest

Fri.  Back to the tor again.  Managed in 2 halves but couldn't link through the 2nd crux move from the start.  Forgot to tape the finger it mangles and left with my right hand feeling like it'd been slammed in a car door! I've got my beta now, will give it a break for a bit and let my hand recover then maybe go back in a couple of weeks.

Sat. 25km on the road bike.  Spent the afternoon digging holes for trees that Mrs. Swede Basher had bought.

Sun.  Felt totally broken from yesterdays gardening and my hand still hurt so ditched all climbing plans and took the kids out on the mtb, 15km steady ride.

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alexm198 - on 08 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Hi Tom, thanks for doing the stats again. 

Oof, it was a biggie for me this week. Did a big supercompensation style week, with the intention of pushing really hard and getting back into the rhythm of proper, regular, structured training. Placed a lot of emphasis on proper recovery this week, which paid dividends.

Last Week (Base Week 20/30)

M: Rest

T: 2h, 16km Z1 run along the Thames Path. Flat, but then so's everything round here. Nice and mellow. I hate doing long runs in central London though, all the fumes give me a banging headache.

W: AM 1h, 11km Z3 run. This was supposed to be Z1 but I just fancied dropping the hammer and went for it. PM Bouldering at Westway. Relatively unstructured, but did a brief fingerboard session to warm up, and a half-assed circuit board session to finish. They've removed the monstrous jugs on the board so I am out of my depth!  

T: 2h, 16km Z1 run. Treadmill. Lovely and dull, but felt super solid.

F: 2h Z1 stairmaster. Avoided death by boredom by watching a movie. 

S: Muscular Endurance in the gym. 3x through the circuit. Felt tough and I have a lot of residual soreness from this, but I was psyched to complete 3 circuits after not having done this for a month.

S: 40km/750m section run of the North Downs Way (Guildford-Merstham). Z1-Z3. I've been talking about running sections of long-distance trails in the south east for ages but this was the first time I'd actually gotten around to it. So enjoyable, will have to do more of this. All this indoor training has made me forget how lovely it is to just get out! 11/10 would grind out again. Apart from the bit where I nearly got attacked by a labrador.

Last week's goals:

  • 10h Z1 (not including the weekend) [Tick - claiming it as I got about 12h total.] 
  • 1 muscular endurance workout [Tick]
  • 1 wall session [Tick]
  • Weekend running/climbing solo objective if weather plays ball [Tick - wasn't my Plan A (which was a Welsh 3000s running/climbing link-up) but still psyched!] 

Goals

This Week

  • 6h Z1
  • 2 wall sessions (one to include an abbreviated max strength session)
  • Potentially a weekend running/climbing solo objective if weather plays ball.

STG (End of April 2019)

  • Average 8.5h Z1 across the 7 weeks between now and end of April [Rolling average: 7.95] 
  • Build up to 5 times through the muscular endurance circuit [Current: 3] 
  • 2 alpine lines >700m (not necessarily rock) [Current: 0/2] 
  • 1 alpine rock lines >700m >6b in preparation for Bugaboos (might be touch and go with conditions this early) [Current: 0/1] 

MTG (End of July 2019)*

  • 2 more alpine rock lines >700m >6b in preparation for Bugaboos 
  • All Along the Watchtower (5.12a)*
  • Bob Graham round (probably over two days)

LTG (End of September 2019)

  • 6x5000m peaks on the Bezengi wall, Caucasus.

*May need a rethink.

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Powderpuff on 08 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Powerpuff -Glad you've got the bike situation sorted -it must have felt nice being able to bike to and from the wall? Good effort with the fingerboarding -do you find openhanded hangs easier or harder than half-crimp? 

Hi Tom, Thanks for captaining boat "fit club" for yet another week!

It does feel good biking to the wall i must admit. I'm naturally a crimper, thus why I never crimp on the fingerboard.

Monday: biked to the wall and climbed a couple of v4's. Then climbed my first v6 in ages

Friday: biked to wall . easy session , warmed up, used the auto belay to go up a couple of easy routes. 2 sets of 20 push ups & sit ups, 2 sets of 10 leg raises and eccentric wrist curls. Theraband exercises for shoulders , then tickled a v4 and biked home.

Sat: 6 max hangs on fingerboard. Used 45 sloper and drag on biggest slot.

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biscuit - on 08 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Cheers Tom.

I'm afraid it was naute. The weather delayed us whilst we waited to see what a front would bring. It brought about 3 ft of powder snow landing on top of 4 week old consolidated snow. Not a good combo. So I came back early. I was prepared to miss dissertation writing time to do the Haute Route, but not just for on-piste skiing. You can't help the weather and plans are afoot for a return next year.

So I did lots of on and off-piste skiing and experienced deep powder. Powder technique remains a mystery to me. People zoomed past whilst I was waist deep, ground to a halt, fell over and then took 10 minutes to get back up again. 

I will find some time this week to write up some proper climbing goals and start towards them. My first task will be to fix my left shoulder (again). It didn't take kindly to falling over onto it many, many times. 

But only a month to go and then dissertation and exams are done and life will start to get less busy and more time for climbing.

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Ardo - on 08 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Hi Tom, thanks for the stat-ting. Just ping me on here when your memory has faded enough to think that Charming Crack is a good idea. Also Desperation Crack at Brimham needs attention…..

No running this week, but mainly due to time and getting out climbing instead. I'll not rule it out of the training plan, but need to work out whether I'll lose more than I gain from adding it.

Mo:    General walking, 9.4 miles.

Tu:    General walking, 10.2 miles.

We:    General walking, 8.9 miles.15 probs; MH: 4*12/180; IDH: 5*4*10:10/60; LB pyramid: 12321/90"; LB laps 2 laps, 2 moves.

Th:    General walking, 8.6 miles. 6 lead.

Fr:    General walking, 9.5 miles. 7 trad.

Sa:    General walking, 7.2 miles. 12 trad.

Su:    General walking, 10.2 miles.

Weight: 10st 4lb/bf 15.5%

One training session, one rope session and a couple of days trad, with an excellent day at Crookrise. Tired Sunday after 4 days on, but a really good week. No running, so maybe next week! Diet almost back on track, though need refining.

This week's plan

At least one training sesh, one lead and one outdoor.

Review STG and MTGs.

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Tom Green on 09 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Total shocker of a week, due to work commitments and a stag weekend.

Week 14:

Good core session (increased resistance and sets) on Monday, then nothing but early starts, late finishes, bad diet and excessive alcohol consumption for the rest of the week. 

Week 15 Plan:

3h Z1

2 Core sessions

2 Max Strength sessions

3 Climbing sessions.

STG/Q2:

Average 300+m vert running per week (Currently 461m)

Bowland run/climbathon

N Wales El Cap Day

Welsh 3000s

MTG/Q3:

Cuillin ridge traverse

Average 300m vert running per week

Some of: Salbit Westgrat, Piz Badile Cassin, Grand Montets ridge, Innominata, Cordier Pillar, etc...

666 Goals:

6 Crack routes of each size

6 Roof routes

6 E-points in a day

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the sheep - on 09 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> the sheep - Hope you managed to stay Noro-free despite the high challenge all around you -although it might help with getting tri-suit shaped!

The irony, avoided norovirus only to come down with man flu. Managed a run Monday evening before feeling crap and then nothing to report until a slow run out the following Sunday

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guy127917 - on 09 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> guy127917 -Yep, feel your pain about a busy wall being almost impossible for doing a structured session. Did you manage to beat the crowds for some AnCap this week? Also, how was the running discipline?

No Ancap... unless you count 5-a-side which definitely does get lactate flowing. Running discipline was better but not quite up to my weekly goal.

Monday: Some sort of climbing activity

Tuesday: Two back to back 5 a side games... I know I know. Actually felt great fitness-wise, almost improving through the second game.

Wednesday: Felt awful... not used to doing 2 hours of Z5 

Thursday: 45 minutes run, terrible performance, felt like legs were made of lead. Poor 1.5 hour climbing session

Friday: Much better relaxed z1/2 run 

Saturday: Climbing at Wintours- did a few cruiser routes on fly wall, good fun

Sunday: Climbing at Symonds Yat- first time there, just did some nice VS routes, would like to go back for some more. 

I hadn't been to the Wye Valley for a few years and it was nice to go back, despite the rock quality and dampness!! I'm not sure it is the best place to push grades etc, but it was a very enjoyable weekend none the less. Training-wise this week was ok... I don't really remember what climbing training I did though I'm fairly sure I did an ok fingerboard session and two aerocap autobelay sessions. 

This week should be similar but with an ancap session instead of one of the aerocap sessions. I booked onto the JPM chase 6km race in July, and great south run 10 miler as part of my yearly goal of 4 organised races.

Post edited at 21:33
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Climbthatpitch - on 10 Apr 2019
In reply to guy127917:

Fly wall lots of entertaining polish I forgot my chalk bag on Freedom once on a 30c summer day it was very entertaining 

One of the best vs climbs I have done is on that wall. African killer bee. I thought it was a brilliant route.

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SFrancis - on 10 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for the stats.

I have a question regarding Visite Obligatoire (TD+), I am sure some one in the thread will have climbed it.

I've been planning on climbing the A. Dibona at the end of the summer, possibly in a weekend hit around September time, was about to get the little black book of partners out. As its been on the list for ages and with it being a rather stress free route of possibly one of the most aesthetic peaks in europe I have no shortage of people keen. But when my GF saw the picture and I explained the route I was planning, she was keen to partner up for it. Initially I was very keen on the idea, means I'll be able to lead everything, but shes not done anything with that much exposure before, not that she has given me massive reason to believe she would have a problem, but I did notice that a lot of pictures show an airy traverse pitch. I'm sure she is strong enough, especially with a nice tight rope above her, but traverse pitches above drops could be a problem. Not sure I fancy orchestrating a haul system or a retreat on a busy route because shes bottled it. Just wondered if anyone would be able to comment on how serious it is for a second and if there are a lot of traverses hard to tell from the topos.

Week 01/04-07/04

M: Bouldering. Ticked a couple of new ones from the V6+ set, among others, good session.

T: Gym session - 3x3 65kg bench press, 3x3 110kg deadlift, 2x8 25kg shoulder press, 3x5 40kg dumbell low rows. PM 30min run 

W: EH PE workout. 2 x 4x4s, 4 x FoC 1min on/off, 4 x 40 second campus ladders on huge rungs, 8min ARC.

T: Rest

F: 30min strict Z1 run.

S: Headed to Winspit to take two friends climbing for the first time. Friend made great progress and led 3 of the grade 4s on quarrymans wall. Not bad considering hes not even climbed indoors. Repeated the 6a+s so did my GF which is a good benchmark for her as they are not easy for the grade, then show boated on Disbelief Suspended (7b+), annoyingly the start was completely wet and I couldn't work a way through with the small selection of dry holds but pulled on the draw to get past that bit and then easily sailed through crux dyno and climbed to top. Felt easy after all the training, tried once more to see if I could miss out the wet holds, but couldn't find away with the dry holds so pulled through to the jug below the roof and then climbed to the top and cleaned. Annoying as i'm 100% it would have been in the bag otherwise, def suited the recent spat of training. Finished with a few beers in the square and compass, safe to say my friends are hooked, already planning on heading to their nearest bouldering wall to get some technique sorted before they come out again.

S: Felt knackered. A few easy boulders at the wall and the an early night.

 This weeks goals:

*Lattice assessment

*1 x light PE session

*1 x light antag/core session

*Peak trad - Saturday, hopefully weather plays ball.

*2 x run.

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alexm198 - on 10 Apr 2019
In reply to SFrancis:

I climbed Visite Obligatoire in 2015. Don't remember there being any spicy traverses on it. It's well bolted, though might be worth taking a small selection of cams if you are concerned about reassuring the second. Stunning route, very sustained at 6a. Go for it! 

Voie des Savoyards, next door, has a very exposed traverse on it, so steer clear of that.

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AJM - on 10 Apr 2019
In reply to guy127917:

Definitely got some objectives in the Wye and at the yat some point this year...

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AJM - on 10 Apr 2019
In reply to AJM:

> aerobic fingerboard training (I just loathe it)

Still loathe it. I'm sure it's making me a better person deep down though?

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SFrancis - on 11 Apr 2019
In reply to alexm198:

Excellent. Thanks for that, just noticed that some of the pictures on ukc are yours. It does look fantastic...

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Bones [:B - on 11 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Bones -Sounds like solid bouldering progress indoors. And with the new sticky feet it'll surely transfer to those Gardoms grudge-matches! Have you just casually ticked your pull-up goal without even realising it?

Hey Tom, yeah been doing ok indoors with the V5/V6 routes at least. Hoping to get the sticky feet on some Peak grit this weekend.

I am also determined this week to write up my week as I go so that I don't put it off until next Weds/Thurs, therefore getting completely confused about which week I am talking about!

Yes to ticking the pull-up goal! Mainly down to knowing I have already managed it previously with minimal effort so knowing it is possible. Goal was 10 and I did 11. Going to increase my MTG to 15 with the LTG to be 20 and also I would like to do a 1 rep max with 32kg added with the LTG of adding body weight (currently 66kg).

Mon: Morning gym - 12kg one-arm clean and press, 20kg goblet squats, can jump 31cm high apparently, 45kg back squat - trying to improve on technique before I go higher as I am mainly just pushing up on my right leg when I get tired. Then back to the gym at lunch for a bit of woody work.

Tues: Gym - 20kg kettlebell clean and press,  35kg barbell clean and press, 10kg renegade rows, pull-ups - 4kg x 5 reps, 8kg x 4 reps, 12kg x 3 reps - reckon I could go higher on weights. Bouldering at Stronghold. Didn’t do anything too magical but it was a fun session.

Weds: Calisthenics. Working on skinning kittens for front-lever on the rings. When going into the back position my back was almost parallel with the ground with legs tucked in and now able to pull back up to the tucked front - progress!

Thurs: rest

Fri: gym - pushing a car and flipping a tire. Fun and fairly easy session. Trying to find my 5 rep max weight for pull-ups. Did 5 reps of 8kg for 3 sets. Seemed fine. Need to figure out my 1 rep max.

Sat: Wye Valley climbing at Wintour's. Led one climb, the Moth, HS. Quite enjoyed the climbing bar one climb which I renamed 'The S!#t climb'. Also, went to an awesome pub (The Fountain Inn) which I would highly recommend for food and delicious bore water and beer if you are in the area.

Sun: Wye Valley climbing at Symmonds Yat. I had been here before but not led anything. Led another HS, Golden Fleece. Fairly relaxed weekend.

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Climbthatpitch - on 14 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for another great job on the stats 

I've really had to think about my strengths vs weakness as every time I climb something I think I am weak at it

Go with weakness first

1. Mind - If i am finding it really hard I will end up shouting take or backing off instead of pushing on and taking the air time.  To be honest I don't know how to fix it either (strangely I seem to be able to control it more when trad climbing and can push a bit harder)

2. Steep and powerful - I know my core strength is very week so I think this holds me back in this department. I have started to put more effort into this now.

Strengths

1. Vertical and crimpy - I tend to always gravitate towards these climbs. Judging more on indoor climbing I can climb 2 boulder grades harder on the vertical and slab walls than I can on overhanging.

M - Climbing at  Gilwern. Climbed Bring out the Crimp (6a+) jumped on this as a warm up and underestimated it. The crux is straight off the ground and I got spat off the first move about 7 times, the rest of the route was a walk. All the Pies Arête (6b+) and then got Microwaves (6c) on about my 6th go

T - Rest

W - Inddor climbing, push ups and core work

T - Indoor Climbing 

F - Push ups and core

S - 9km run.

S - Indoor climbing 

Goal for next week - buy a notepad and start writing everything down as I am not 100% sure this is right I need to stop going off memory

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mattrm - on 14 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 10lbs

M - Rest

T - 4 mile walk

W - cHiiT

T - 3 mile walk

F - S - Rest

Mar Overall - it must have been close to 60% at this point...

2019 - 40%

I was only going to take a day off on Friday, but then over the weekend, just didn't have the energy and that was that.  Had been planning to do more 'HiiT' but my knee wasn't feeling great.

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