/ UKC Fit Club Week 662

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mattrm 01 Dec 2019

Sorry in advance, I don't read the thread loads normally these days, so I'm definitely not up to date with some of the newer members goals and stuff.  Hopefully I've not missed anyone.  Hope you all find the notes useful.

I'll re-instate the 'psyche' video for next week, does anyone have any suggestions for that?

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:


Last week's thread can be found here:


AJM - How is the momentum going?  Hope the shoulder is still ok?  Massively impressed you're keeping up the training.

AlanLittle - Hope the new plan works out well.  How hard did the 10 6a+es feel?  I do feel that Remi is right, push for the 6c's or all 6bs at a minimum.  Did you beat the benchmark this week?

Ally Smith - Mmmm chutney....  Feeling better now?

annak - No we didn't loose 661, but we had 660 twice ;)  I injure easily as well and I agree, don't overdo things and keep things gentle.  You progress better then.  Hope the surgery went well?

ianstevens - Did you eat better this week?  Have you ever tried Diet Quality Scores?  Love the yoga volume there.  Congrats on the 6C.

ad111 - Do you ice climb over the winter then?  Good number of sessions.  How's the STG going?

Paul16 - Looks like a nice solid week.  Keep it up!

mattrm - Eat less cake and beer you moron.  More veggies dumbo.  Try and get down the wall twice this week yeh lazy fat arse!  Don't overdo the running and get shin splints.

Somerset swede basher - I have the same problem on the grit, so I can sympathise.  Get the miles in and it'll come back I'm sure.  I'd stick with the Depot then, if you like the problems, it'll make wall trips more pleasant.

biscuit - Sounds like Ratho was good training.  Hope the finger is ok now?

Tom Green - Not a bad week even if it wasn't what you intended, especially if work was hard.  Glad you had a nice safe Alps trip.

Powderpuff - I'd struggle with 1 pull up at the moment, so 29 is amazing.  How's the alcohol tolerance training going?  Ready for christmas yet? ;)

Ardo - Did you get anything done this week?

Steve Jones - Dave Mac's injury book is great, highly recommended by me.  Lots of good runs there.

Missing - Bones, SFrancis

Post edited at 12:50
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers mattrm, and thanks for stats this week. I've been slightly less spanked by gritstone this week but no ticks yet. 

Mon. Rest

Tues. 7km run

Wed. Depot Sheffield, did a load more of the V5 to V7 circuit.

Thurs. Rest

Fri. Burbage North. Had a full session on Blind Date. Got the first move wired (when I had a quick go last week I could make the distance but not hold it), got the left toe sorted but no further.

Sat. Rest. 

Sun. Back to Blind Date. Can get through the first 3 moves now so both hands into the break. Assumed it was easy after that but it appears not! Skin thin by the end, anyone got tips (pun intended) for skin regrowing? Hoping to get out Tues eve. 

In reply to mattrm:

Also, I think it might be wk 663?

mattrm 01 Dec 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> Also, I think it might be wk 663?

****.  I knew I'd screw something up.  Well we've had 660 twice and now we're having 662 twice!  It's not the first time it's happened and it probably won't be the last.  I'll make sure we're on 664 next week.

planetmarshall 01 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

> Missing - 

And me. D'oh.

Last week

Monday  - Physio. I'm trying to sort out a long standing shoulder imbalance that's been bothering me for years now ever since some post-op rehab didn't go quite to plan. Went to see James at the Sheffield Climbing Clinic and got some measurements done on their fancy Tindeq Progressor gadget. Also got some exercises to work on

Tuesday - Bouldering@Substation. Working mostly on harder problems, things that I typically fail on but can at least see some progress so as not to get frustrated. Found three Red problems to work on for the next few weeks.

Saturday - Quick pullup test on the ice axes, 1RM at +25kg.

Sunday - Bouldering@ Burbage North. First V4s! (Haven't actually successfully sent a V3 yet) Roof Goofe (f6B) and Jetty Bulge (f6B). Also sent Cleo's Edge (f5+) and had a couple of goes on the starting moves of Velvet Crab (f7A+)


A bit more consistency in training. I don't really have any specific goals I'm working toward at the moment so maybe try and find something - mostly just trying to keep my strength up and work on trying harder. So, next week - 

  • At least 12km trail running
  • Keep up the shoulder physio
  • Max hang test on the fingerboard
  • Max hang test on the axes
  • At least 2 days climbing (indoors or out)
AJM 01 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

RotPunkt for the psyche video...

> AJM - How is the momentum going?  Hope the shoulder is still ok?  Massively impressed you're keeping up the training.

thanks Matt. Shoulder is ok, grumbles every now and again but it’s driven by holding the child badly not a systematic issue. I still got stuff done this week, but as expected momentum faltered a bit as I went back to work.

monday - tried fingerboard, got to about previous highs on middle 2 and front 2 and 10mm edges but forearms felt a bit creaky so decided to back off rather than push on. 3 sets pull-ups at 85kg, 6-5-4 reps.

tuesday - Wall. Good session. A few good problems done.

wednesday - back to work. Rest

thursday - half day at work. Slightly frustrating to not get anything done in the pm, my team organised a welcome back lunch which with a few pints took up the first part of the pm but a bit annoyed with myself for letting the remainder fritter away

friday - half day, but miniAJM around in the afternoon so no time to do stuff

saturday - my sister visiting, nothing done

sunday - fingerboard. Frustrated by inconsistency of my scales. But probably another kilo or so of progress on the one arm assist on the 15mm....

working 4 days next week so challenge goes up. Hopefully wall on the day off, something at home after I get back from London Thursday, squeeze something else quick in some other point?

annak 01 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks mattrm surgery went very well, laparoscopic abdominal procedure to remove a cyst, leaving me with four puncture wounds to get healed. The surgeon's advice was no "heavy" lifting for 2 weeks, where heavy means 5kg. I feel kind of in the dark about what that means for my training and how to progress, I obviously don't want to risk messing things up. Might go chat to my physio for advice in a couple of weeks.

In the meantime : walking

M: rest

T: surgery, home the same day

W: 10+15 min walk

Th: 25 min walk

F: 40 min walk

Sa: 50 min walk

Su: 1h walk

AlanLittle 01 Dec 2019
In reply to AJM:

> RotPunkt for the psyche video

Ai Mori on the women's quali lead route in Toulouse is my psyche video for this week / lifetime. Looks totally blown & struggling ten moves from the top. Continues to look totally blown & struggling for ten more moves; tops, wins.

AlanLittle 01 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

Well done for volunteering to MC Matt.

> How hard did the 10 6a+es feel?  I do feel that Remi is right, push for the 6c's or all 6bs at a minimum.

Pushed to 7 x 6b onsight plus one dnf today. Very tiring in a general whole body sort of way; managed to keep the fingers going by alternating crimpy & blobby routes.

STG: Get partners to commit to dates for spring Kaly trip
MTG: Be fit for Kalymnos in May; ideally get a couple of decent things done at home beforehand.
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021, starting with getting up something big, steep & classic on Kalymnos in the spring. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

Two attempts at weekday evening sessions this week were total non-starters. Work has been heavy & stressful for a few weeks now, probably related to that.

T: Big day at work, too mentally tired to make it to the wall. Tried to do max hangs instead, but that didn't work either. Never mind.
W: Office Christmas party.
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Warmed up with some light bouldering then tried to do a base mileage session on circuits, which was another total non-starter. (And no, the Christmas party yesterday was a very modest & restrained affair)
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Much better. Bouldering, again focusing on roofs & getting comfortable upside down.
S: Wall, Freimann. Base mileage session, much better than Thursday. See above.

the sheep 01 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

Surgery done on Thursday. Note to others open abdominal surgery under a local is not pleasant even if it’s only a minor op.

Anyway I’m up and about and did a gentle 2k walk today 

ad111 02 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

I don't do any ice climbing here, which seems like a shame. I did a little when I was at uni and have sold my axes since then. My excuse is that my Finnish friends are all boulderers and most of them are scared of heights - indoor leading is pretty entertaining with them! Thanks for the effort and looking at what the new guys like me have written!

I had a good week. Did some testing and had really good results and felt pretty exhausted from my testing session for the rest of the week and took it easy until a comp on Saturday.

Test results: Finger strength 3.5kg increase since 20/09 and a 2.5kg pullup increase since 19/05. The pullup increase actually puts me up to +30kg which was my STG - Hooray!

Monday: Rest

Tuesday: Test session then free climb

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Konala free climb and core

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Christmas comp in Kauniainen - 40 boulders with the easiest one supposedly at 6B+. It's a private wall inside what I think is an old bomb shelter set of tunnels that also houses an ice rink. We walked in through a giant set of steel doors and down about a kilometer of granite tunnel and more doors was yet another identical steel door that opened up into a a really cool bouldering wall. Either way, everyone who climbs there is a wad and I managed under 15 of the routes. But it was good fun.

STG: Gain another 2.5kg pullup strength by the end of January.

MTG: Sort out my hip and start stretching very carefully.

LTG: 3* 7C in Spring 2020

mattrm 02 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 3lbs (STS)

M - Push ups

T - 3 mile walk

W - 3 mile run

T - Indoor bouldering

F - 3 mile walk

S - 4 mile walk

S - Push ups

Happy with this week all in.  The running is slotting back in nicely and I'm much more motivated than normal, due to the new (and beautiful) places that I can run in.  Living about 2 miles from a National Park ringed by mountains and hills has the odd perk.  I did have a few twinges, so I'm pushing the next run to the end of next week.  Just the normal shin splints, so I know how to fix / miss that.  This monht has finished strongly, with a solid streak from the 22nd.  The best month statswise, with 73% average.  Obviously I pretty much have to be 90% plus next month as I can only afford to miss a few days.  But it's getting closer, I'm up to 47% over all as well, which is great.  Even if I don't hit 50%, then I'm happy with the effort and it's got me out and about more, which is great.

I also got down the local bouldering wall.  Managed a slabby (so my style) 6A as well.  Bit of a shock, but it rewarded balance and footwork, which I generally can pull out from time to time.  Just need to push the weight back down and I'll be better than I think I am.

Nov - 73%

YTD - 47%

AJM / AlanLittle - links please?  Found RotPunkt, but not the other one?

I'm also going to dig out the older starter post with Alex Barrow's PDF as a link on it.  

We might want to start a 2019 links/resources thread to supplement the 2007 post as well.  I'm not going to stop using that it's history, but we probably should have an update!  

Ally Smith 02 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for stat'ing Matt

Virtually nothing from me in the last week. Lurgy hit me very hard - swapped bed for sofa and vice versa for much of the week.

Travelling with work this week, so little chance of exercise. Will do my best to get back on the wagon.

mattrm 02 Dec 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Hope you're better soon.  Rest up and start again when you're well.  A short break could be good for you.

Paul16 02 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

Afternoon, thanks for doing the stats. Last week was affected by a cold but managed to get a fair few sessions in. Had hoped to get out this weekend but no-one was available to hold the rope so ended up on plastic.

M - Rest - shoulders, foam rolling

T - Long session at Rope Race, many routes climbed at around 6b for mileage.

W - AM: strength session at the Chapel, PM: ARC 2x20 mins

T - Rest - shoulders, foam rolling

F - AW, auto-belay, shorter session focussing on harder routes as set. Was feeling really crappy so ended up working on flow and relaxation while climbing easier stuff. Despite feeling unwell I came away having learned quite a lot from the relaxation work.

S - Rest. Works drinks but didn't go overboard so no hangover on Sunday!

S - 10 mile walk (350m ascent) then ARC 3x30 at the Chapel.

STG (Early Dec 2019): Build a base of endurance and good movement habits. Improve shoulder mobility and awareness of tension.

MTG (Spain, Early Feb 2020): Booked a trip to Costa Blanca for early Feb so eyeing up some goals for that trip. There's a 6c+ at Sella I didn't finish last time so that's one. Otherwise I'll be looking to redpoint some 6c+/7a's and see where I get to on those.

MTG (UK, March 2020): Redpoint Rubicon 7a & Kiss Me Hardy 7a+, head point San Melas E3 5c. On-sight of Wings of Unreason E4 5c/6a/6b

LTG (Sept 2020): Redpoint Brachiation Dance or Garderobe, both 7b+. Had a chat with someone who's climbed Brachiation Dance and he suggested a better option, which I'm going to have a look at and maybe change this.

Paul16 02 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

oh, for psyche I watch Jain Kim climb. She's so relaxed that you never know when she's going to fall until she does!

annak 02 Dec 2019
In reply to the sheep:

Good to hear your surgery went well. Did you get much advice about when to start exercising / training / climbing again? 

Steve Jones 02 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

> Steve Jones - Dave Mac's injury book is great, highly recommended by me.  Lots of good runs there.

OK -I'll ask Santa for it

M - Weights. 1st time for a few weeks and you could tell

T - Runing Club pyramid session, 12k.

W - Rest

T - Running club 1k intervals. 9km total

F - Rest - our bands 1st gig in months that evening...

S - Rest - Drummers wedding

S - Run up Catbells - 12k, 460m, 1hr 20, then 90 mins or so at the wall. Wrist hurt to begin with but was OK. Climbed route up to 6c. And wrist was ok this morning

Ally Smith 02 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

> Hope you're better soon.  Rest up and start again when you're well.  A short break could be good for you.

Cheers Matt - going for a gentle session this evening - little bit of aero-cap rather than highest intensity work

the sheep 02 Dec 2019
In reply to annak:

Thank you, no specific advice on training. I did ask but got the general give it 4 weeks before starting gently. 

AlanLittle 02 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

> AJM / AlanLittle - links please?  Found RotPunkt, but not the other one?


Ardo 02 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

> Ardo - Did you get anything done this week?

Actually have some training to report on FC!

Mo: General walking, 5.3 miles.

Tu: General walking, 4.8 miles.

We: General walking, 5.5 miles.

Th: General walking, 5.7 miles. Training session: warm up; 8 probs, (v4 max); MH: 4*12/150, (BW on BM2K, h4); IDH: 3*4*10:10/90, (BW on BM2K, h3); 5 probs, (V6 max); 8 min yoga.

Fr: General walking, 8.2 miles.

Sa: General walking, 7.3 miles. ~5 mile park walk.

Su: General walking, 7.7 miles. ~5 mile park walk.

Started back on the training and went ok for first session back, though only got one done. Return to work imminent, so need to get back into work routine and firm up training program, probably focusing on power/strength. Also, almost time for 2018 review and 2019 targets.

In reply to AJM:

> RotPunkt for the psyche video...

'There is no bad conditions... there is only weakness'


Post edited at 22:38
AlanLittle 03 Dec 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

The full quote is here: https://www.8a.nu/articles/alexander-megos-8934

> Any advice you could offer to those aiming to climb harder?

> Don't use for every stupid thing an excuse. There is not too short, too tall, too heavy, too warm, too wet, too humid. There is just one excuse: too weak. 

> So don't use excuses, try harder.

Tom Green 03 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

Hi All. Thanks for statting Matt.

Don't worry about repeating 662 -it gives us all more of a chance to hit those 666 goals!

A lean week for training, but a great week for climbing -opened the Scottish Winter account.

Week 48:

M: Rest

T: Core + Max Strength

W: Long work day

T: Rest -should have done something, but didn't want DOMS for the weekend!

F: Prehab.

S: Auricle (Winter) (VI 7) First route of the winter. Led the IV and V pitches. The crux 7 pitch felt hard but not the living end -thank you White Goods! Led the last pitch slowly and clumsily... definitely felt a bit out of practice at finding placements and gear. About 90 min Z1.

S: Daylight Robbery (V 6) led the 6 pitch. Auld Reekie, Direct Start (V 6) -seconded. About 120 min Z1.

Week 49 Plan: 

140 min Z1. 45 min Z3.

2 x Core & Strength Sessions

3 x Shoulder Prehab

1 x Bouldering

STG (End Dec):

Front Squat 3RM: 60kg 

Deadlift 3RM: 80kg (Buy more weights!)

Tick off 666 goal routes.

Redpoint Jaz or Hidden Dragon (M7)

MTG (End March 2020):

Scottish 7.

Two winter alpine routes from my little black book!

SkiMo summit (TBC).

666 Goals (Basically STGs!):

6 Crack routes of each size (Fingers 2/6; Hands 6/6; Fists 0/6; Offwidth 1/6)

6 Roof routes (2/6)

6 E-points in a day

Tom Green 03 Dec 2019
In reply to planetmarshall:

> Also sent Cleo's Edge (f5+) and had a couple of goes on the starting moves of Velvet Crab (f7A+)

Have you done Velvet Roof next to Velvet Crab? Might be good for laps to get in the zone for Melvyn Bragg (although I don't think there is any prep for getting in to the chicken wing from the invert on MB!) You still got plans to get back on Melvyn Bragg? Give us a shout if you want a fellow sufferer!

Tom Green 03 Dec 2019
In reply to the sheep:

Sounds rough! Glad it's all done. A good excuse to relax until Christmas too!

Tom Green 03 Dec 2019
In reply to annak:

> The surgeon's advice was no "heavy" lifting for 2 weeks, where heavy means 5kg. 

Does he even lift, bro?!

With you and thesheep it must be UKC Surgery Club this week! Glad it went well.

Powderpuff 03 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

> Powderpuff - I'd struggle with 1 pull up at the moment, so 29 is amazing.  How's the alcohol tolerance training going?  Ready for christmas yet? ;)

Big love to you Mattrm for doing fit club!

Alcohol tolerance is not going well im afraid only managed one glass of flat prosecco on saturday night but I did manage another glass from the same bottle on sunday and I did also drink my first gingerbread flavoured prosecco so that's progress. I'm still hopeful I'll be pub fit before Christmas

Tuesday: biked to the wall (it's been a while), climbed 2x v4, 2x v5 and worked a v6, v7 and even tinkered with a v8... 3 sets of 20 push ups & sit ups. 3 sets of 10 eccentric wrist curls and leg raises. Theraband for shoulders...enjoyable sess

Friday: Climbed v4 , v5 and worked two v6 problems.

Sun: 6 max hangs of 45's/35's slopers. 26 pull ups. 3 sets of 20 sit ups and 3 sets of 10 eccentric wrist curls.

Have a great week everyone and...drink responsibly!

the sheep 03 Dec 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Cheers, ideal time to be a bit lazy

the sheep 03 Dec 2019
In reply to annak:

Sounds like we are pretty much in the same boat with minimal advice on recovery. I am very much like you and just starting off with going walking and seeing how it’s goes.  Would be good to hear how your recovery goes.

Post edited at 18:18
biscuit 03 Dec 2019
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt. 

It was going quite well and then i had two mysteriously rubbish sessions on Tuesday and Thursday followed by getting ill on Friday night. Totally didn’t see it coming - other than with hindsight as to why the sessions were below par. I felt like I’d been run over by a bus for 24 hrs, but then felt ok ish by Sunday eve. I still had an underpowered session yesterday, but that’s to report next week.

It also meant I had to cancel a physio appt - sorry Paul! 

My finger felt terrible after tuesday’s  session and I got worried but I think I was just feeling a bit sensitive. 

So the trip is about 4 weeks away. This finger has held me back more than I thought and it’s time to step it up and get pumped! 

Paul16 04 Dec 2019
In reply to biscuit:

Don't worry about it - life happens sometimes

annak 16:48 Thu
In reply to Tom Green:

Haha I know! Thanks  

annak 16:50 Thu
In reply to the sheep:

Yeah despite my best efforts with Google I'm none the wiser about when I can start cycling/skiing etc, and even climbing covers an enormous range of ground. Presumably doing some slabby traverses might be ok in the near future but no roofs or whippers any time soon?

I'm walking... man it's boring

the sheep 10:47 Fri
In reply to annak:

I’m playing it by ear at the moment. Still have a fair bit of bruising and swelling but this was open not keyhole surgery. Back at work next week so may try a gentle swim. As you say it’s got to be better than walking. I’m fed up with tramping over soggy fields under a grey sky!

annak 12:00 Fri
In reply to Tom Green:

Good work on Auricle.  I get pretty scared on anything above tec5 even if its got loads of gear!

seankenny 16:06 Fri
In reply to annak:

Took me a couple of months getting back into climbing again after a hernia operation - I was very careful around steep things for quite a while! I also did a lot of walking at first, pretty boring but I felt better for it.

Double checked the diary and it seems I took a while to get back into climbing due to a dodgy elbow... so post-op could be a good time to sort out other niggles?

the sheep 16:44 Fri
In reply to annak:

Brilliant, thank you

Tom Green 17:42 Fri
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Cheers! Was pretty chuffed with tech 7 as first route of the year but was quite glad I was on second for that pitch!

Leading 6 the following day didn’t feel too bad though... definitely think the autumn tooling is a real help. 

Hoping to get some good 7 leads this winter. The dream would be VII but we’ll see! You got any winter aspirations these days or does that not work well with mini-swedes, etc?!

In reply to Tom Green:

I don't think ill get North of the border. If things get cold in the Peak I fancy some of the lines up at Dovestones Quarry. We did a couple of these a few years ago and they were good value at the grade (the stuff around waterfall climb at about IV 5). Might manage a day trip to the lakes if conditions are good but I'm not expecting to get further than that. 

annak 20:48 Fri
In reply to seankenny:

Yeah there's that at least, I have a couple of niggly fingers that I'm hoping will cheer up if I ease off the gas for a couple of months  

the sheep 22:16 Fri
In reply to annak:

A good point. I was getting some shoulder niggles from lots of swimming. New year is going to start with complementary upper body work too


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