In reply to minimike:
Remember that strength is about max effort, and *not* about volume or repeats.
For finger strength, Eva Lopez' protocols fit the "minimal strength training" bill. Out of your 20mn per week, most of the time will be about warming up / building a bit of tension, from bottom to top (torso, shoulders, ankles), a bit of core / pull-ups, push-ups (not to neglect the antagonists).
Then the sequence itself is :
- 10" (or even 7") sub maximal hang
- 3mn rest
- 10" hang
- 3mn rest
- 10" hang
Keep shoulder blades engaged, arms very slightly bent, etc. So 30" total effort for a sub 7' sequence. Define your sub-maximal effort as hanging 10" where you might reach say 12" and fail.
Next week: increase a bit the load or keep the same if time needed to consolidate your ability to fully succeed.
Important : this is about increasing your ability to succeed, as opposed to pushing up the limit where you fail. Reaching failure is increasing the risk of injury. So, e.g., if a dead hang at +0kg is way too easy, add 5kg. But if successful, add another kg only the following week, and if a bit shaky, then back down a bit next time.
Using a comfortable rung you may increase difficulty by either adding weight and/or decreasing the rung's depth (by adding cardboard or thin plywood : very easy) and/or removing fingers, plus varying grip types.
With no remarkable strength at start, I have managed to progressively increase to +50kg on comfortable rungs (which is less than bodyweight, so this is still less than no load with only one arm : so much less impressive than it sounds. Was over a couple of years.
Then, as usual, training should not be too specific : I found out that such load on big rungs did not translate well on small rungs : so now I tend to focus more on variations with no added weight, but smaller rungs and/or removing fingers.
You will find your own specific mix of grip type / depth / load based on inspiration Most probably you will want to do a bit more : e.g., do 2 x 3 instead of 1 x 3, in order to vary grip / fingers, etc : as long as you navigate in the max load zone with no cumulated fatigue and no risk of failure it's ok (because each hang should be done almost 100% fresh).
https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/05/fingerboard-training-guide-II-Max...
Post edited at 13:47