/ Banff Ice Climbing

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big john - on 20 Jan 2013
Hello, I'm off on a ski holiday to Banff with my family, and wondered if anyone in the Sheffield area had a guide book to the winter climbing around there that I could possibly borrow.
Otherwise, does anyone know how accessible the climbs are, whether you can hire equipment there, or any reccomendations for climbs or guidebooks.

p.s whilst I'm asking, any reccomendations for interesting off piste runs with low objective danger and easy approaches? ta
Damo on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to big john:

1) It's awesome.
2) Some climbs are very accessible. ie. Weeping Wall a couple of hundred vertical metres of multiple WI5 routes 10 min off the road. Other routes are 3hr of hard skiing. There are LOTS of routes.
3) The guidebook is Waterfall Ice by Joe Josephson but is out of print and hard to find.
4) You can rent gear in Banff at:
5) Check out:
Jimmybarr on 20 Jan 2013 -
In reply to big john:

Some are very accessible. If you want to go to Lake Louise, take the ski bus and then once at the ski hill get the free shuttle bus down to the Chateau. Walk to the end of the lake and you've got Louise Falls on your right and then across the other side is Cable Gullies. Johnston and Grotto Canyon are also really close. Basically you've got tons to choose from. Heading out myself in March.

Ref off piste, you've got the 'Dive' at Sunshine and the Back Bowls at Lake Louise which are always good fun.

Out of interest, how have you got on with flights? For the past 5 years I've always flown from Manchester but can't get a direct flight to Calgary for love or money this time. Looks like I'm going to have to fly from Gatwick, which is a pain in the ass for us northerners.
STWright - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to big john:

Ditto all of the above.

One of my favourite climbs is professor falls. 300m of very reliable WI4. Great climb but a wee bit of walk in. If you can find some mountain bikes that helps with the 10km approach.

Marble Canyon is also very good, great atmosphere and routes that can be top roped up to WI6!

Heart creek is also accessible and very reliable with some nice routes.

The guidebook might be available for rental from the Banff library who are very helpful but you might need to get a Banff address from somewhere.

The dive is fantastic but also Goats eye has some excellent off piste when open.

Have a mega time, Banff is an awesome place to ski and climb.


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