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Petzl Nomic for Scotland

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Does anyone have any experience in the Scottish Highlands with the Petzl Nomic. I'll be heading out there early this January for some graded II and III routes, hoping for some ice and snow.  I'm wondering if the Nomic with the Pur'Ice pick will do me well or if I'll need a different pick or tool. It's a guided trip and I've been recommended the Quark which uses the regular Ice pick from Pretzl. Should I try to track down and buy a different pick for the Nomic, look to find a different tool or should I be good to go with the Nomic as is?

 VictorM 18 Dec 2024
In reply to DistractedCanuck:

I think it's not so much the pick that makes the Quark the recommended tool at those grades, but more the steepness and/or amounts of snow versus ice. 

The Quark, with its less aggressive curve, will be more comfortable to plunge and for use in the high and middle dagger position. 

That's not to say the Nomic is completely unusable and if it's your only tool I would just take those instead of buying new ones. But I think these are the reasons you've been recommended the Quark. 

 Merlin 18 Dec 2024
In reply to DistractedCanuck:

The Nomic will be absolutely fine, and potentially more fun than a Quark (and I'm a Quark user).

24
 galpinos 18 Dec 2024
In reply to DistractedCanuck:

Just to reinforce VictorM's post, it's not the pick, but the axe.

The handle on Nomics make them an amazing tool to climb with, but a compromise in getting to the climb/off the mountain. On a guided trip climbing grade II/III, a Quark/equivalent would be a better tool.

However, if you already have Nomics and are used to climbing with them, I would get in touch with the company and see what they say/whether they are happy with you with Nomics/have some Quarks/equivalent to borrow/hire?

 TheGeneralist 18 Dec 2024
In reply to DistractedCanuck:

I've got Nomics and wholeheartedly agree with Victor and Gamapinos.

The shaft is the issue (  not a huge one)

Post edited at 13:08
 JMAB 18 Dec 2024
In reply to DistractedCanuck:

Will be fine but I'd be nervous with a Pur'Ice pick on anything mixed. If you plan on doing mixed probably worth picking up a pair of ice or dry picks.

Not much point changing axes. I've done that grade on nomics a bunch and, while not ideal, it's fine.

 TobyA 18 Dec 2024
In reply to DistractedCanuck:

For grade II you really don't need ice climbing tools because its predominantly steep snow. Of course you can use Nomics but they're actually more than you need. Some grade III can have decent sections of (not very steep) ice so there paired tools are nice.

The obvious disadvantage with Nomic is their lack of a spike at the base of the shaft making them harder to use as a walking stick, or to plunge into deep snow, such as below a cornice. One possibility is see if you borrow or get a more classic mountaineering axe and use that for all the one-axe parts of the day and take one of your nomics to use as the second tool on the steeper bits.

4
 mattc 19 Dec 2024
In reply to DistractedCanuck:

You might be better with something like the Quarks its handy to be able to plunge the shaft into deep soft snow, it will make everything more secure. You can hire some pretty cheaply.  

 DaveHK 19 Dec 2024
In reply to JMAB:

> Will be fine but I'd be nervous with a Pur'Ice pick on anything mixed. If you plan on doing mixed probably worth picking up a pair of ice or dry picks.

I wouldn't worry about this on II/III terrain, there's actually very little difference between ice and mixed picks.

Post edited at 10:08
 olddirtydoggy 19 Dec 2024
In reply to DistractedCanuck:

If it's anything to you, I climb pure ice routes up to WI5 and mixed routes at grade V with an old pair of BD Vipers. With Nomics I'd probably notice it a little easier at those grades but at grade 2/3 I doubt you'd feel much benefit. I'd also be using a mixed pick in Scotland. Nomics will allow you to progress into harder grades though. I'd decide what your long term aspirations are going to be.

 French Erick 20 Dec 2024
In reply to DistractedCanuck:

Where will you be based? I am sure I can loan you a pair of easier axes if you are close to Inverness if you find the Nomics to be a hindrance. They shouldn't though.

Erick

 Dave Wills 20 Dec 2024
In reply to DistractedCanuck:

Nomics are the last axe id be taking for those grades, any more traditional axes will perform better and help you be better.

Definitely try and borrow some less extreme tools if you can. I live in Cheshire & would happily lend you a pair.

I've climbed grade VII with them so they're more than capable on tech as well as being superior on easier terrain 

In reply to DistractedCanuck:

Any axe will be fine on that terrain, you may be able to halve the weight and get away with just one.

Pick wise, it won't matter, an ice specific pic will just wear a bit quicker on sections of rock or turf.

Better to worry about fitting an adze for step cutting.

1
 timparkin 21 Dec 2024
In reply to Ennerdaleblonde:

> Any axe will be fine on that terrain, you may be able to halve the weight and get away with just one.

> Pick wise, it won't matter, an ice specific pic will just wear a bit quicker on sections of rock or turf.

Can you torque a thinner ice pick as effectivley in small cracks?

In reply to timparkin:

Yes, it just won't last as long. The op will hardly be hanging one armed and busting up into a fig4 given the spec.


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