UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

8m.

Rockfax Description
Start in the middle of the slab, at some sloping holds, and a short vertical flake. Make perplexing pebbly moves to gain the ledge and an easier finish. Highball f6A+ but awkward to pad. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Brayshaw 1960.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , The Black Circuit - Stanage , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , BMC highballs , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Level 2 Peak Boulder Problems , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Slab , Sheffield

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 10 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with John's comments - palm and pebble combination works wonders. See Fawcett On Rock for beta :) Another quality slab, the line of features makes it possibly the best on the slab. Again you can fall but you can't bounce.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with John's comments - palm and pebble combination works wonders. See Fawcett On Rock for beta :) Another quality slab, the line of features makes it possibly the best on the slab. Again you can fall but you can't bounce.
Ropeboy 6 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Not exactly polished but not as rough as the surronding holds. Palming/pushing down helps on this one. The main difficulties not being to high off the deck.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not exactly polished but not as rough as the surronding holds. Palming/pushing down helps on this one. The main difficulties not being to high off the deck.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 15
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Bouldered
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Midshipman / Plain Sailing

Grade: E2 6a ***
(Birchen Edge)

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