UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A totally committing layback up the left side of the superb arete. Side-runners should be avoided at all costs. From the starting block, take a deep breath, and sprint for the midway break. Thankfully things are easier and safer above. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1972.

Ticklists

Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies. , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , 50 of the Best , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Extreme 2018 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Dream Grit Ticklist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , One Man and His Serotonin Levels , Grit solos hvs -e3 , Sheff , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stan Plan ArĂȘtes , Trad Lowballs , Peel's Primo Projects , Winter 23/24 , Sheffield , Arete-ucation

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ian Patterson 14 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Simon, thats because you're now old and sensible, steady E3 when you're young and stupid!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Simon, thats because you're now old and sensible, steady E3 when you're young and stupid!
UKB Shark 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm going to stick my neck out and say I think this is E4. I have tried this a few times over the last 20 years but it wasn't till today that I got to the point that carrying on was safer than reversing. Cathartic. Approaching perfection.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm going to stick my neck out and say I think this is E4. I have tried this a few times over the last 20 years but it wasn't till today that I got to the point that carrying on was safer than reversing. Cathartic. Approaching perfection.
Stevie3ee 18 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: what gear goes in archangel before i do it this week?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: what gear goes in archangel before i do it this week?
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Totally agree! Don't stop, just keep motoring on up there until your stood on the first gear ledge. Look back down and be amazed at what you've just down. Perfect!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Totally agree! Don't stop, just keep motoring on up there until your stood on the first gear ledge. Look back down and be amazed at what you've just down. Perfect!
Ropeboy 26 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A true gritstone experience! Whatever you do don't stop.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A true gritstone experience! Whatever you do don't stop.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 63
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Toproped
Bouldered
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Emerald Crack

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Chatsworth Edge)

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