Rockfax Description
The right-hand side is as good, longer and just as unprotected. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1985. Appeared shortly after I suggested to Ed that to climb the 'other' side of the arete would be fun!

Ticklists: 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Hidden 24/Sep TR
Andrew Barker 11/Oct/15 Solo O/S

No pads. Stood in the low break for while before going for it. Felt pretty steady.

Hidden 21/Jun/15 TR
elCapitano 28/Apr/14 TR O/S
with Jonny
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
pipof747 09/Nov/13 Lead RP

Not harder than Archangel imo...

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/13 Solo
with Cherry Bedford
Graeme Hammond 31/May/13 Solo dnf

...so the next trick... Climbed this earlier in the year on-sight above the snow and a mat but fell just before the break this time and landed on a rock trying to improve my style. This resulted in a fractured Scaphoid (wrist) on the right hand, fractured Calaceum (left heal), Right foot dislocated and broken 2nd toe, another fractured Calaceum, the Talus bone broken into 3 main pieces plus lots of small "dust fragments" requiring 2 B&Q screws, a broken Metatarsal requiring another screw. Thanks to EDALE MOUNTAIN RESCUE for sorting me out. Still better than Archangel that I'd just done with no pads. will be back...really? what are you thinking? better learn how to walk again first.

with Cleo
ellis 10/Apr/13 Sent O/S

snow, perhaps should be 'beta' having eyed up all the hand holds...

with Tom Holdsworth, Dave Musgrove
Dave Musgrove Jnr 10/Apr/13 Solo
with Blonde, Ellis Ash
Hidden 08/Apr/13 Solo β
Obi-Wan is lost... 07/Apr/13 Solo

'Snowballed' to break then traversed off. Lovely climbing, felt easier than Archangel.

mark20 07/Apr/13 Solo O/S
liamoloughlin 07/Apr/13 Solo O/S


adie84 07/Apr/13 Solo
Gus 07/Apr/13 Solo O/S

Above snow

Hidden 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Brown 06/Apr/13 Solo

Up down several times above a snowdrift

with Solo
Jeronimo 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S

snowballed. Down climbed Archangel.

MarkRoe 05/Apr/13 Solo O/S

Snowballed. Better and Easier than Archangel in my opinion!!

with Martin Veale, Rhys Whitehouse
whitehouse_rhys 05/Apr/13 Solo O/S
with heather osborn, Mark Roe
Graeme Hammond 04/Apr/13 Solo O/S

snowball, topped out (right hand side all the way). Excellent (better and easier than Archangel) and not as hard as I expected might be back in the summer...

highrepute 04/Apr/13 Sent O/S


fresherjohn 04/Apr/13 Solo O/S


Joe Costello 04/Apr/13 Sent O/S

Snow and pads.

Hidden 03/Apr/13 -
Chris_barr 02/Apr/13 Sent

Not really done the route as snowballed and didn't top out. Good climbing though

soph 02/Apr/13 Solo O/S

above snow

with Alex Hughes
Hidden 01/Apr/13 Sent
jacobjlloyd 31/Mar/13 Sent β

With a good snow platform and a couple of pads, up till it ends than reversed rather than try to climb through the cornice. Felt miles easier that I remember Archangel feeling - maybe because today it was so much safer!

with Ross
quiffhanger 31/Mar/13 Sent O/S

To the break above a snow platform. Good conditions - felt pretty steady. Also downclimbed it.

with Jake
J.Wells 14/Oct/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR O/S
Andy Peak 1 21/Feb/12 TR

on a shunt, cudnt do the move in the midel but will solo when I am strong enofe

Andy Peak 1 ??/2012 TR

on a shunt, cudnt do the move in the midel but will solo when I am strong enofe

ben_250 20/Apr/11 TR dog
with Tom
harvie 19/Mar/11 Solo β
with "mad" max the guy from the guide
Jonas Paulsson 03/Mar/11 TR β

Sweet laybacking. Forgot to try left side (Archangel)...

Mike Goldthorp 02/Mar/11 Solo O/S

Aretes just a bit blunter than archangel so slightly harder. Just as classic!

Hidden 06/Apr/10 TR O/S
Boy 30/Jan/10 -
with Si Wilson, James McCaffie, Nige Kershaw
Hidden 30/Jan/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 10/Sep/09 TR dog
Hidden 10/Sep/09 TR dog
chrisdavies 20/Jun/09 TR
Andrew Jennings ?/Dec/08 Sent O/S
with Mia Stacey, Scott Gibson, Bob Smith, Mike Adams
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Dec/07 Solo O/S
Ram MkiV 22/Oct/07 Solo O/S

quality layback sprinting. didn't feel much harder than archangel, easier in some ways since there are some holds and smears to urge you on.

with Steve Robinson
Hidden 11/Aug/07 TR dnf
MYSSAK 23/Jun/07 Solo RP
Hidden 05/Jan/05 2nd O/S
Ben Bransby 19/Apr/02 Solo
Hidden ?/Feb/02 TR
AB1965 15/Apr/96 2nd
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Style of ascent
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