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22m.

Rockfax Description
The fine twisting groove is one of the best routes on the crag though not all agree! The initial corner is the thrutchy crux for many, it is usually wedged and jammed facing right, though it can also be layback or even bridged, facing in or out! The midway ledge offers some respite then the upper bulging groove can be laybacked or bridged elegantly to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Harding 1947.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Stanage *** HVS's, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, World Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, UK Classic Corners, Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, ULMC Classics, 50 of the Best, Top 50 Peak Cracks, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The V.S.+ Ticklist, 3 Star Stanage, To Goliath's Groove and beyond, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Hobo Unicorn Essentials, Memorable Climbs, Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Stanage Plantation, Stan, On Peak Rock, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, The Gritlist, UK smearing corners, Proper Cracks UK, Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets., Stanage HVS Challenge, Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown, Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3*, Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., So you think you’re a VS climber?

Feedback

User Date Notes
JayWhiting 4 Jun Show βeta
βeta: A fine climb. There's an in situ wire on the crack on the upper bulge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fine climb. There's an in situ wire on the crack on the upper bulge.
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Thuglaybackbridgejamswingyeeehah! - and what a line. One of the best routes on grit
 
Show beta
βeta: Thuglaybackbridgejamswingyeeehah! - and what a line. One of the best routes on grit
Luke Brooks 20 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with Kristian, if you elegantly bridge with a touch of laybacking for a move or two, the route is beautiful, and delicate.
 
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βeta: I agree with Kristian, if you elegantly bridge with a touch of laybacking for a move or two, the route is beautiful, and delicate.
vvanhinsbergh 17 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Thoroughly enjoyable, best climb i have found on Stanage so far.... Agree the bottom is not for the light hearted, although i managed first attempt as my first HVS!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thoroughly enjoyable, best climb i have found on Stanage so far.... Agree the bottom is not for the light hearted, although i managed first attempt as my first HVS!
CurlyStevo 11 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It simply isn't HVD at the bootom, the bottom is the crux and is harder than any VS corner crack I've climbed.
βeta?
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βeta: It simply isn't HVD at the bootom, the bottom is the crux and is harder than any VS corner crack I've climbed.
andygb 9 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this at VS. When it was 'upgraded' to HVS several years ago (along with many other routes in a new guide)I was so incensed that I soloed it, first route of the day to prove a point - I was not an HVS solo leader at the time. HVD bottom, pleasant VS above.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this at VS. When it was 'upgraded' to HVS several years ago (along with many other routes in a new guide)I was so incensed that I soloed it, first route of the day to prove a point - I was not an HVS solo leader at the time. HVD bottom, pleasant VS above.
MNA123 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Yeh i fell off and weighted the gear a couple of three times on the initial crack. after the pump out on the ledge the rest is a lot easier then it looks, feels a tad precarious when your pumped out to the max tho, bloody grtstone, bloody love it :-)!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeh i fell off and weighted the gear a couple of three times on the initial crack. after the pump out on the ledge the rest is a lot easier then it looks, feels a tad precarious when your pumped out to the max tho, bloody grtstone, bloody love it :-)!
Wil Treasure 22 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: There seem to be a few who've decked off this. Not quite sure how, it's easy to place good protection for the first section without an enormous cam. Good climbing, which is straightforward but energy sapping for the start (I jammed).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There seem to be a few who've decked off this. Not quite sure how, it's easy to place good protection for the first section without an enormous cam. Good climbing, which is straightforward but energy sapping for the start (I jammed).
EarlyBird 11 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Interesting range of opinions. I did this as one of my first HVS's, as it was considered a soft touch. Laybacked the first 15ft, first piece of gear as the angle eased and it all felt pretty easy. Have been back since and thrutched it, very secure; and bridged it, very elegant but very precarious. I don't think this can be considered hard for HVS unless you're afraid to get physical with those first 15 ft.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Interesting range of opinions. I did this as one of my first HVS's, as it was considered a soft touch. Laybacked the first 15ft, first piece of gear as the angle eased and it all felt pretty easy. Have been back since and thrutched it, very secure; and bridged it, very elegant but very precarious. I don't think this can be considered hard for HVS unless you're afraid to get physical with those first 15 ft.
steveoracle 14 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: bloody awful, the lower cracks a desperate thrutch and the upper is a short realtively easy layback. No way three stars, the Blurter is much much better...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bloody awful, the lower cracks a desperate thrutch and the upper is a short realtively easy layback. No way three stars, the Blurter is much much better...
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: anyone saying this is easy is climbing well above the hvs grade and talking out of their a.s. if this is at the top of your normal game stay away until you are climbing solid at hvs. i tried it as one of my first hvs's came off hit the deck skined a knuckle allmost off. Next time a year later bridged up it still hard, not easy to put gear in as you are more to the right of crack but got through it, bold and strong arms needed
 
Show beta
βeta: anyone saying this is easy is climbing well above the hvs grade and talking out of their a.s. if this is at the top of your normal game stay away until you are climbing solid at hvs. i tried it as one of my first hvs's came off hit the deck skined a knuckle allmost off. Next time a year later bridged up it still hard, not easy to put gear in as you are more to the right of crack but got through it, bold and strong arms needed
Chris the Tall 11 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Hideous and desperate for the first 15ft, but great thereafter. Probably not a great choice if you have a hangover and a paranoia about foot-jamming
βeta?
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βeta: Hideous and desperate for the first 15ft, but great thereafter. Probably not a great choice if you have a hangover and a paranoia about foot-jamming
Munir Hassan 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My first HVS - admittedly not quite a clean ascent on the first short blank section.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first HVS - admittedly not quite a clean ascent on the first short blank section.
Richard Horn 16 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Hindsight is a great thing...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hindsight is a great thing...
Tom Gilbert 16 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The finger jam, is that not quite high up? Why did you only have one cam in?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The finger jam, is that not quite high up? Why did you only have one cam in?
Richard Horn 29 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I am one of the 'poor unsuspecting outsiders' mentioned above that tried this on my first trip to Stanage doing routes on saturday. Having tried bridging it I slithered off the initial groove onto a No 4 cam and then retreated to the ground for a rest upset at losing the onsight but comforted by the gear holding well. Anyway next try I slithered off again only one move or so from the safety of the finger jam, this time the cam ripped and I landed on the rocks below on my back. Maybe this is standard fare for gritstone specialists but seemed plain nasty for someone unfamiliar with the techniques. The bruises I have now suggest this route should carry a health warning!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I am one of the 'poor unsuspecting outsiders' mentioned above that tried this on my first trip to Stanage doing routes on saturday. Having tried bridging it I slithered off the initial groove onto a No 4 cam and then retreated to the ground for a rest upset at losing the onsight but comforted by the gear holding well. Anyway next try I slithered off again only one move or so from the safety of the finger jam, this time the cam ripped and I landed on the rocks below on my back. Maybe this is standard fare for gritstone specialists but seemed plain nasty for someone unfamiliar with the techniques. The bruises I have now suggest this route should carry a health warning!
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Looked at it and thought, i'll try the elegant bridging method, got up to the first decent foot holds with no gear and could barely reach the back of the crack to place a wire and didn't have a size 5 friend. So went with the thrutch technique, the knee locks are amazing and give you a no hands rest on every move! I was quite worried when my whole left leg started getting very hot( route induce DVT?) only nuts 8-9 will be accepted or a size 1 friend. After the initial thrutch, the rest of the route can be bridged pleasantly and laces with gear at about severe.
 
Show beta
βeta: Looked at it and thought, i'll try the elegant bridging method, got up to the first decent foot holds with no gear and could barely reach the back of the crack to place a wire and didn't have a size 5 friend. So went with the thrutch technique, the knee locks are amazing and give you a no hands rest on every move! I was quite worried when my whole left leg started getting very hot( route induce DVT?) only nuts 8-9 will be accepted or a size 1 friend. After the initial thrutch, the rest of the route can be bridged pleasantly and laces with gear at about severe.
Robo 30 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Argh. The bottom crack. Flared. Polished. Bridged, lay-backed, fallen off. Ripped trousers and arms. How the hell do you climb that???
 
Show beta
βeta: Argh. The bottom crack. Flared. Polished. Bridged, lay-backed, fallen off. Ripped trousers and arms. How the hell do you climb that???

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 351
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 340
Votes cast 327
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Right-hand Tower

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage North)