22m.

Rockfax Description
Another bald, bold and brilliant arete. Getting established on the sharp section of the arete is the crux - above this a traumatic layback leads quickly to the halfway break or even more quickly back to the ground. If successful, finish more easily. Very highball f6B above pads. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Hard Grit history, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Peak Rock/18/A Boulder Primer, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
dannyboy83 18 Nov Solo RP
AlexMorris 5 Oct Sent x Lovely bit of gritstone
Lovely bit of gritstone
Guy Harris 5 Oct Sent dnf Failed. Everyone else did it, sad times. Leg breaker if you lob off the top arete even on to pads. Not ideal.
Failed. Everyone else did it, sad times. Leg breaker if you lob off the top arete even on to pads. Not ideal.
Jwatson 5 Oct Sent O/S fucking incredible.
fucking incredible.
harry_lewis 5 Oct Sent β Amazing route. Done above pads and traversed off at the break.
Amazing route. Done above pads and traversed off at the break.
Sam O'Rourke 13 May, 2017 TR RP
with Tom Barr
with Tom Barr
JulesV ??, 2017 -
MischaHY 23 Apr, 2016 Solo O/S Utterly fantastic. Classic gritstone at its best. Soloed onsight without mats, on a pristine Stanage day. Bliss.
Utterly fantastic. Classic gritstone at its best. Soloed onsight without mats, on a pristine Stanage day. Bliss.
The old James turnbull 5 Apr, 2016 Solo O/S Would have liked more pads but a few no shows. Didnt need them in the end. Lovely evening and been wanting that for years. Cheers boys
with tebs, simon kimber
Would have liked more pads but a few no shows. Didnt need them in the end. Lovely evening and been wanting that for years. Cheers boys
with tebs, simon kimber
Dave Heaton 16 Jan, 2016 TR
with Martin Cathrow
with Martin Cathrow
malx 15 May, 2015 Solo O/S After many years of going up and coming back down
After many years of going up and coming back down
Hidden 30 Dec, 2014 Sent rpt
Ram MkiV 30 Dec, 2014 Sent rpt
Duncan Campbell 30 Dec, 2014 Sent Magic. Second go ground up (Traversed off at the ledge). That top arête is sublime. Such a beautiful day too!
with Chris_barr, Michaela "the champ" Tracy, clairejane, Wft, Ram MkiV
Magic. Second go ground up (Traversed off at the ledge). That top arête is sublime. Such a beautiful day too!
with Chris_barr, Michaela "the champ" Tracy, clairejane, Wft, Ram MkiV
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
hamer89 10 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Sep, 2013 Lead
with Cherry Bedford
with Cherry Bedford
miastacey 19 Apr, 2013 Lead RP Not a pure ascent. Melt-point. : )
with Bob Smith
Not a pure ascent. Melt-point. : )
with Bob Smith
bclifton 17 Apr, 2013 Lead G/U
Harry Chaplin 16 Apr, 2013 Lead β with pads and a bit of snow
with pads and a bit of snow
ellis 10 Apr, 2013 Sent snow, to ledge
with Tom Holdsworth, Dave Musgrove Jnr
snow, to ledge
with Tom Holdsworth, Dave Musgrove Jnr
samt 9 Apr, 2013 - Snowballed and topped out
Snowballed and topped out
Hidden 8 Apr, 2013 Solo RP
Gus 7 Apr, 2013 Solo β Above a diminishing snow platform, you can actually climb the crux now just.
Above a diminishing snow platform, you can actually climb the crux now just.
Obi-Wan is lost... 7 Apr, 2013 Solo Did the layback section to the break on the front face from a decent snow platform. Great climbing.
Did the layback section to the break on the front face from a decent snow platform. Great climbing.
mark20 7 Apr, 2013 Sent β
AlistairB 7 Apr, 2013 Sent x Snowball from crouch start, 2nd go after being way too casual first try. Traversed off at break.
Snowball from crouch start, 2nd go after being way too casual first try. Traversed off at break.
Hidden 7 Apr, 2013 Solo rpt
Graeme Hammond 6 Apr, 2013 Sent x Snowball - silly miss start/slip first go, fine 2nd go, one pad folded in half on snow ledge so not the best landing. Snow low enough to start on the crux just. Traversed off at the break.
Snowball - silly miss start/slip first go, fine 2nd go, one pad folded in half on snow ledge so not the best landing. Snow low enough to start on the crux just. Traversed off at the break.
Chris_barr 6 Apr, 2013 Sent β Done a couple of times over past few days with varying snow height.
with Jon
Done a couple of times over past few days with varying snow height.
with Jon
Hidden 6 Apr, 2013 Sent x
CJEFF 6 Apr, 2013 Sent x 2nd go. Above mat folded in half on snow platform. Pulled on below the crux and escaped off at the ledge.
2nd go. Above mat folded in half on snow platform. Pulled on below the crux and escaped off at the ledge.
Brown 6 Apr, 2013 Solo Up down several times above a snowdrift
with Solo
Up down several times above a snowdrift
with Solo
JHM 6 Apr, 2013 Sent β Snowballed. Bailed at the break
Snowballed. Bailed at the break
soph 5 Apr, 2013 Sent O/S above snow
with Katie Maxwell, John McCune
above snow
with Katie Maxwell, John McCune
Si dH 4 Apr, 2013 Sent O/S Snowball from the crux to the break. Snow several feet deep, so totally safe.
Snowball from the crux to the break. Snow several feet deep, so totally safe.
highrepute 4 Apr, 2013 Sent O/S Snowball
Snowball
Joe Costello 4 Apr, 2013 Sent O/S Just low arete with snow and pads. Will be back one day for the top bit.
Just low arete with snow and pads. Will be back one day for the top bit.
birdie1989 2 Apr, 2013 Sent snowballed
snowballed
Hidden 1 Apr, 2013 Sent O/S
Will Hunt 31 Mar, 2013 - Snowballed. The platform is burying the crux I think so quite an easy romp up the very top of the arete.
with James Williamson, Luke Donaldson
Snowballed. The platform is burying the crux I think so quite an easy romp up the very top of the arete.
with James Williamson, Luke Donaldson
belay bunny turned bad 31 Mar, 2013 Sent Above a lot of snow!!!
Above a lot of snow!!!
Will Sheaff 31 Mar, 2013 Solo dnf Snowball above crux
Snowball above crux
Hidden 2 Dec, 2012 Sent β
al123 2 Dec, 2012 Solo So cool. Highball 6B with lots of pads. Didn't do upper arete.
So cool. Highball 6B with lots of pads. Didn't do upper arete.
Ed Booth 16 Jan, 2012 Solo dnf commited to right foot smeared but didnt commit to left hand up. Maybe next time with more pads or maybe just top rope it.
with fennerz
commited to right foot smeared but didnt commit to left hand up. Maybe next time with more pads or maybe just top rope it.
with fennerz
akhughes 2 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Jonas Paulsson 3 Mar, 2011 TR β Short technical move to get into layback position.
Short technical move to get into layback position.
Ram MkiV 2 Mar, 2011 Solo Puntered the foot sequence on the crux first go. Got it next try after Mike's demo. Quite nervy going all the way to the top.
with Mike G
Puntered the foot sequence on the crux first go. Got it next try after Mike's demo. Quite nervy going all the way to the top.
with Mike G
Mike Goldthorp 2 Mar, 2011 Solo rpt With pads this time. Crux felt much steadier, but top arete felt just as nervy as last time
With pads this time. Crux felt much steadier, but top arete felt just as nervy as last time
MicheleC ?Mar, 2011 Sent β
C coldwell-storry 25 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
with rob lay
with rob lay
Ed Booth 14 Feb, 2011 Solo dnf Didn't feel like committing today. Looks like once you put foot up and go for pinch of arete and pebble, it's a one way ticket. Will do another day...
Didn't feel like committing today. Looks like once you put foot up and go for pinch of arete and pebble, it's a one way ticket. Will do another day...
jacobjacob 14 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
harvie 8 Feb, 2011 Solo
Hidden 16 Nov, 2010 TR O/S
pipof747 5 Oct, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Apr, 2010 TR O/S
Mike Goldthorp 14 Mar, 2010 Solo O/S 4* line. Had a super good weekend capped with a padless ascent of this, love the grit!
4* line. Had a super good weekend capped with a padless ascent of this, love the grit!
bigie bob 11 Mar, 2010 Solo O/S
Boy 30 Jan, 2010 -
with Si Wilson, James McCaffie, Nige Kershaw
with Si Wilson, James McCaffie, Nige Kershaw
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30 Jan, 2010 Solo rpt Onsight soloed years ago above a beer towel but great to do it again above a load of mats.
with Ryan Pasquill
Onsight soloed years ago above a beer towel but great to do it again above a load of mats.
with Ryan Pasquill
Hidden ?Dec, 2009 -
Si Witcher 17 Oct, 2009 Solo rpt
Hidden 6 Dec, 2008 Solo dnf
Andrew Jennings ?Dec, 2008 Sent β
with Jon Fullwood, Nige
with Jon Fullwood, Nige
masa-alpin 26 Oct, 2008 TR dog
with Claudia
with Claudia
Hidden 30 Oct, 2007 Solo O/S
Kyuzo 22 Oct, 2007 Lead RP
with Hal Watts
with Hal Watts
MYSSAK 23 Jun, 2007 Solo O/S
redjerry ?May, 2007 Solo
Hidden ?Apr, 2007 Solo O/S
Hidden 5 Nov, 2006 Lead β
Hidden ?Nov, 2005 Solo RP
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Solo O/S Soloed above 1 mat.
with Basher Atkinson
Soloed above 1 mat.
with Basher Atkinson
Hidden ??, 2005 2nd dog
Davros the Psyched ??, 2004 Solo O/S
Ben Bransby 19 Apr, 2002 Solo
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead O/S
with ciaran troup, Aide Jebb, nick warren
with ciaran troup, Aide Jebb, nick warren
sadams 16 Apr, 2000 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27 Apr, 1997 Solo O/S
Si Witcher ??, 1997 Solo β no pads
no pads
SR1970 ?Apr, 1995 Solo RP
Jon Read ?Apr, 1993 Solo RP Pre-mats: rucksac and a Zippy.
with Zippy
Pre-mats: rucksac and a Zippy.
with Zippy
Colin McKerrell ??, 1993 -
Colin McKerrell ??, 1993 -
Colin McKerrell ??, 1993 -
phardman ??, 1992 Solo O/S Climbed up and down the start a couple of times to feel the holds and then went for it!
Climbed up and down the start a couple of times to feel the holds and then went for it!
mik1miller ??, 1989 TR
with derek johnson
with derek johnson
Mike Owen 2 Jun, 1988 Solo rpt
Mike Owen 2 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S led then soloed
with Elaine Owen
led then soloed
with Elaine Owen
Dave Musgrove 28 Dec, 1985 TR Set off to lead it but bottled it! Easy on a top-rope.
with Kim Greenald
Set off to lead it but bottled it! Easy on a top-rope.
with Kim Greenald
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
andy gittins ??, 1982 TR rpt
robate ??, 1982 Solo O/S no mats, any harder at the time would have given a severe hospital trip
no mats, any harder at the time would have given a severe hospital trip
46 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Bouldered
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set