Rockfax Description
Another bald, bold and brilliant arete. Getting established on the sharp section of the arete is the crux - above this a traumatic layback leads quickly to the halfway break or even more quickly back to the ground. If successful, finish more easily. Very highball f6B above pads. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Hard Grit history, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Peak Rock/18/A Boulder Primer, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Sam O'Rourke 13/May/17 TR RP
with Tom Barr
JulesV ??/2017 -
MischaHY 23/Apr/16 Solo O/S

Utterly fantastic. Classic gritstone at its best. Soloed onsight without mats, on a pristine Stanage day. Bliss.

The old James turnbull 05/Apr/16 Solo O/S

Would have liked more pads but a few no shows. Didnt need them in the end. Lovely evening and been wanting that for years. Cheers boys

with bart shaw, simon kimber
Dave Heaton 16/Jan/16 TR
with Martin Cathrow
malx 15/May/15 Solo O/S

After many years of going up and coming back down

Wood for Trees 30/Dec/14 Sent rpt

much better today, so good watching the others climb it

with Michaela, duncan campbell, chris barr, Steve
Ram MkiV 30/Dec/14 Sent rpt
Duncan Campbell 30/Dec/14 Sent

Magic. Second go ground up (Traversed off at the ledge). That top arête is sublime. Such a beautiful day too!

with Chris Barr, Michaela "the champ" Tracy, Claire C, GuyVG, Steve
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/13 Lead
with Cherry Bedford
miastacey 19/Apr/13 Lead RP

Not a pure ascent. Melt-point. : )

with Bob Smith
bclifton 17/Apr/13 Lead G/U
Harry Chaplin 16/Apr/13 Lead β

with pads and a bit of snow

ellis 10/Apr/13 Sent

snow, to ledge

with Tom Holdsworth, Dave Musgrove
samt 09/Apr/13 -

Snowballed and topped out

Hidden 08/Apr/13 Solo RP
Gus 07/Apr/13 Solo β

Above a diminishing snow platform, you can actually climb the crux now just.

Obi-Wan is lost... 07/Apr/13 Solo

Did the layback section to the break on the front face from a decent snow platform. Great climbing.

mark20 07/Apr/13 Sent β
AlistairB 07/Apr/13 Sent x

Snowball from crouch start, 2nd go after being way too casual first try. Traversed off at break.

Hidden 07/Apr/13 Solo rpt
Graeme Hammond 06/Apr/13 Sent x

Snowball - silly miss start/slip first go, fine 2nd go, one pad folded in half on snow ledge so not the best landing. Snow low enough to start on the crux just.

Chris_barr 06/Apr/13 Sent β

Done a couple of times over past few days with varying snow height.

with Jon
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Sent x
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Sent x
Brown 06/Apr/13 Solo

Up down several times above a snowdrift

with Solo
Jeronimo 06/Apr/13 Sent β

Snowballed. Bailed at the break

soph 05/Apr/13 Sent O/S

above snow

with Katie Maxwell, John McCune
Si dH 04/Apr/13 Sent O/S

Snowball from the crux to the break. Snow several feet deep, so totally safe.

highrepute 04/Apr/13 Sent O/S


Joe Costello 04/Apr/13 Sent O/S

Just low arete with snow and pads. Will be back one day for the top bit.

birdie1989 02/Apr/13 Sent


Hidden 01/Apr/13 Sent O/S
Will Hunt 31/Mar/13 -

Snowballed. The platform is burying the crux I think so quite an easy romp up the very top of the arete.

with James Williamson, Luke Donaldson
belay bunny turned bad 31/Mar/13 Sent

Above a lot of snow!!!

with will
Will Sheaff 31/Mar/13 Solo dnf

Snowball above crux

Wood for Trees 02/Dec/12 Sent β

highball to the break, traversed off then up fairy steps, didn't fancy the E1 on solo so will be back with a rope. Serious feet sketch on top Arete. no snow but lots of pads

with crew
al123 02/Dec/12 Solo

So cool. Highball 6B with lots of pads. Didn't do upper arete.

Ed Booth 16/Jan/12 Solo dnf

commited to right foot smeared but didnt commit to left hand up. Maybe next time with more pads or maybe just top rope it.

with Fennerz
akhughes 02/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Jonas Paulsson 03/Mar/11 TR β

Short technical move to get into layback position.

Ram MkiV 02/Mar/11 Solo

Puntered the foot sequence on the crux first go. Got it next try after Mike's demo. Quite nervy going all the way to the top.

with Mike G
Mike Goldthorp 02/Mar/11 Solo rpt

With pads this time. Crux felt much steadier, but top arete felt just as nervy as last time

MicheleC ?/Mar/11 Sent β
C coldwell-storry 25/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with rob lay
Ed Booth 14/Feb/11 Solo dnf

Didn't feel like committing today. Looks like once you put foot up and go for pinch of arete and pebble, it's a one way ticket. Will do another day...

jacobjacob 14/Feb/11 Lead O/S
harvie 08/Feb/11 Solo
Hidden 16/Nov/10 TR O/S
pipof747 05/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Apr/10 TR O/S
Mike Goldthorp 14/Mar/10 Solo O/S

4* line. Had a super good weekend capped with a padless ascent of this, love the grit!

bigie bob 11/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Boy 30/Jan/10 -
with Si Wilson, James McCaffie, Nige Kershaw
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Jan/10 Solo rpt

Onsight soloed years ago above a beer towel but great to do it again above a load of mats.

with Ryan Pasquill
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
switch 17/Oct/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 06/Dec/08 Solo dnf
Andrew Jennings ?/Dec/08 Sent β
with Jon Fullwood, Nige
masa-alpin 26/Oct/08 TR dog
with Claudia
Hidden 30/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Kyuzo 22/Oct/07 Lead RP
with Hal Watts
MYSSAK 23/Jun/07 Solo O/S
redjerry ?/May/07 Solo
Hidden 05/Nov/06 Lead β
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Solo RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Solo O/S

Soloed above 1 mat.

with Basher Atkinson
Hidden ??/2005 2nd dog
Davros the Psyched ??/2004 Solo O/S
Ben Bransby 19/Apr/02 Solo
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
with ciaran troup, Aide Jebb, nick warren
sadams 16/Apr/00 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Apr/97 Solo O/S
switch ??/1997 Solo β

no pads

SR1970 ?/Apr/95 Solo RP
Jon Read ?/Apr/93 Solo RP

Pre-mats: rucksac and a Zippy.

with Zippy
phardman ??/1992 Solo O/S

Climbed up and down the start a couple of times to feel the holds and then went for it!

mik1miller ??/1989 TR
with derek johnson
Mike Owen 02/Jun/88 Solo rpt
Mike Owen 02/Jun/88 Lead O/S

led then soloed

with Elaine Owen
Dave Musgrove 28/Dec/85 TR

Set off to lead it but bottled it! Easy on a top-rope.

with Kim Greenald
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
andy gittins ??/1982 TR rpt
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set