UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A vintage outing from JWP. Climb blocks rightwards and make a hand-traverse back left (not much gear) to reach the gully. The upper section gives easier blocky rambling in the gloom. © Rockfax

FA. J.W.Puttrell late 1800s.

Ticklists

Stanage; Diffs on the cliffs , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers. , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage Solo , Pottering with Puttrell at Stanage , Stanage green spot starters , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Nutkey 9 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Led this for a rest after trying an HS which turned out to be a sandbag, and an S which took half the skin off my foot, and wasn't much fun. Loved it, really good. Would give it 3* except that I'm not sure I'd have enjoyed the unprotected traverse much when I was leading VDiffs....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Led this for a rest after trying an HS which turned out to be a sandbag, and an S which took half the skin off my foot, and wasn't much fun. Loved it, really good. Would give it 3* except that I'm not sure I'd have enjoyed the unprotected traverse much when I was leading VDiffs....
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 23 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic little route! Really nice and fun outing - I took two beginners up with me and they loved it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic little route! Really nice and fun outing - I took two beginners up with me and they loved it.
Simon Caldwell 17 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the definitive guide - Diff for the normal route, VDiff for the (not very strenuous) direct.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with the definitive guide - Diff for the normal route, VDiff for the (not very strenuous) direct.
Dan_S 15 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route! The traverse onto the route is poorly protected. The middle slab looks worse than it is.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route! The traverse onto the route is poorly protected. The middle slab looks worse than it is.

Logged Ascents

735 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zig-zag

Grade: VD ***
(Kinder Downfall)

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