Rockfax Description
Trivial but popular. Climb the central chimney then traverse the break leftwards into the middle of the slab. Make a tricky mantelshelf move and continue delicately. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1979

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s.

keitht 28/Aug 2nd
dewiturton 28/Aug Lead
with keitht
Ben Bransby 05/Aug Solo
Sam O'Rourke 13/May Lead O/S
with Harry Shaw
max_dickens 26/Nov/16 Lead β

First Grit Extreme. Good route Thought i was dammed by my height but good encouragement from bow helped me commit. bloody reachy crux!

with Dan, Torin, Zakko, Owain crimps, Bennett, Bow
James Beaumont 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Good fun but seemed contrived tbh

with Max
Andy Moles 21/Oct/16 Solo
SteveM 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Got confused and thought the crux was above the break, and gear.

with Luke
Luke Jones 02/Oct/16 2nd dog
with Steve Mead
charley 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Mark
MDR61 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with charley
Calum Wadsworth 27/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Well worth doing, cool slab climbing

with Hannah R
Hidden 27/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/16 Lead O/S
kermit_uk 15/May/16 Lead β

On Andy's gear

bigdrew 15/May/16 Lead O/S
ralphio 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S

First E1 lead for a while. Moves went fine, an enjoyable little climb.

with Neil
Hidden 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 03/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Maia
Hidden ??/2016 -
JDC 15/Aug/15 Lead

Mate led it first - pulled ropes and led on his gear.

danJBA 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
DanChad 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Chris Murray 30/May/15 2nd
Nick1812P 23/May/15 Solo O/S
Derek Furze 23/May/15 2nd
with Paul Mitchell
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Gambit 30/Apr/15 Lead rpt
phil64 19/Apr/15 Lead rpt


with phil baker
julesmckim 08/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Martin Dolan
AlexRenshaw 07/Mar/15 2nd
with Martin, Jules McKim
FATBOYFAT ??/2015 -
bencole ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/14 -
Hidden 08/Sep/14 -
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 31/Aug/14 Solo rpt

To celebrate my hungeover retroflash of Satin.

with Dan M
ashtond6 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
shouter 08/Jun/14 Lead
shouter 08/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 21/May/14 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
LJC 29/Dec/13 Lead dnf

4th e1 of the day downclimbed. Low on psyche/warmth/friction.

deejmonkey 21/Sep/13 TR
with rob, len, matt
terragait 21/Sep/13 2nd
with deej
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead dnf
Deltona 08/Sep/13 2nd dog
Gudge 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
coffeepot 10/Aug/13 2nd
with jelaby
Hidden 10/Jul/13 -
Hidden 10/Jul/13 -
jwpil 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Deacon
rob.grafton 04/Oct/12 Lead
with Jim, Phil Evans
RM199 22/Sep/12 Lead β
jshields 16/Sep/12 Lead
Hardonicus 08/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Luke Donaldson
Brown ?/Sep/12 Lead
with Lilifa
HarryBowyer 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Sam
Nick Russell 19/May/12 2nd O/S
with Noel
Coel Hellier 01/Apr/12 Lead
bobpilgrem 20/Mar/12 2nd β

Did moves OK this time- lead next time

with Matt/Tom
tompilgrem 20/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Matt Harle 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Pilgrim
Roberttaylor 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
James Oswald 02/Nov/11 Lead O/S

with more cams than I needed... Ace, shame it isn't any longer though! scarier as you feel committed once stood in the break. Scary.

Hardonicus 29/Oct/11 2nd rpt

Nick lead after Alex had a mare and backed off...

with nick a, Alex Thompson
Hidden 29/Oct/11 TR RP
johang 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Hazell
mikej 29/Sep/11 TR
with Rick Naylor
Graeme Hammond 19/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Jim
Jim Slater 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
JRae 27/May/11 Lead
mark20 08/May/11 Lead O/S

Good practice for Telli

Hidden 08/May/11 2nd rpt
pebbles 20/Mar/11 2nd

excellent lead by ben! very delicate top half, smearing on nowt

with ben smith
alaan 26/Feb/11 Solo O/S
Will Hunt 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Cragrat Rich 16/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Nice climbing. Sort of faffed about threatening to balls it all up a bit in the middle before rocking onto the break. Found it a bit nervy but essentially quite easy from there

Hidden 16/Nov/10 Lead O/S
john lynch 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Neil Elmore
Ollie B 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with S.Bennett
Martin Haworth 24/Oct/10 Lead β
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead β
Tony Holdsworth 07/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Guido
Hidden 07/Oct/10 -
Hardonicus 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Good route bit contrived, quite soft.

with nick a
tompilgrem 25/Sep/10 TR O/S

Top roped 2 times but don't have the neck to lead it , yet!

with Dad
Katya 04/Sep/10 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
inuklm 28/Aug/10 Lead dog

Took a fall off the crux bit. Re-did from the ground.

holters 23/Aug/10 2nd
Adam Potter 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 2nd
mtempest 08/Aug/10 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 08/Aug/10 2nd
brices 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
nathanlee 24/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/10 Lead dnf
philboy 19/Jul/10 2nd
with matt g
petellis 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Big faff with the gear then a joyous zoom up the fantastic runout slab above. Climbs really well despite being slightly contrived.

mattyork2 28/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/10 2nd
Hidden 08/May/10 Solo O/S
Coel Hellier ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

very well protected crux, much easier climbing above so not really bold. So-so route.

Phil Jennings 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Anna Jennings, Kieran Smith
hardoreVdiffBen 07/Mar/10 2nd
Byronius Maximus 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Nice mantelshelf move, foot slipped but somehow stayed on. Top half felt pretty bold.

akhughes ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
raptorheli 09/Nov/09 Lead O/S
james.lane 09/Nov/09 2nd O/S
with Simon
Hidden 10/Oct/09 TR rpt
Mike_Hayes 13/Sep/09 -
mustdobetter 15/Jun/09 2nd dnf
Lewis Andrew 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Fred Prall
quiffhanger 07/May/09 Solo

Via Satin (v6) direct start

mtempest 07/Apr/09 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 07/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
PenJD 25/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Jim Walton 25/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Crux well protected but the top move still gives a flutter

lowersharpnose 09/Oct/08 Lead
with SiShaw
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
thrutch 17/Sep/08 TR O/S
with Matt
Matt Fry 17/Sep/08 Lead RP

Direct start up Satin. Brilliant E3 6b

Andrew Barker ?/Sep/08 -
Katie Marshall 24/Aug/08 2nd
with Guido
Hidden 23/Aug/08 -
catt 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S

Sketchy but good!

with Shauna
Shauna 13/Jul/08 Lead rpt

I seconded this a while back. unsurprisingly it felt a lot sketchier on lead.

with Iain
Coel Hellier 13/Jul/08 Lead
Shauna 23/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Duz
Guy Wilson 21/May/08 Lead dog
with Gavin Moy
galpinos 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mark
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Bullybones ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Owen W-G 21/Oct/07 Lead β

Belayed Rob before leading. Seemed like a mini-Telli.

with Robin
Monk 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

This was a nice route. The crux was probably standing up in the break, then the top moves were pretty interesting but steady. Taller people who can reach the pocket will find this much less scary!

with TheTourist
thetourist 30/Sep/07 2nd

Hello pebble ;-)

with Dave Finch
Matty 09/Sep/07 TR O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/07 Lead rpt
Caralynh 28/Mar/07 2nd β
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
willackers ??/2007 Solo O/S
with John Atkinson
Stig 30/Aug/06 Lead rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Si dH 10/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Was climbing badly today, mentally gone after falling off FBD again. Committing to the tw ocruxes on this took me ages, got there eventually though. Quite tough 5b?

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 10/Aug/06 2nd rpt
Mutl3y 11/Jun/06 2nd
with Iggy_B
Iggy_B 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 10/Jun/06 Lead
thrutch 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S

just did this because a gary gibson route. Really nice slab with delicate climbing

with johnny b
mikecopp 02/Jun/06 Solo
Hidden 22/Apr/06 TR rpt
Hidden 15/Apr/06 2nd dnf
Hidden 15/Apr/06 Lead
Alex Mason 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S

great route first E grade of the year i think! sweet exhilerating mantle then a tidy crank to the top

with joe young
Hidden 22/Jan/06 Solo
Boy ??/2006 -
Mark A Humphries 29/Oct/05 Lead β
with Andy
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/05 TR
mattwyles1 ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
cem 14/Aug/05 Lead dog

1 fall

SMc 15/May/05 -
with Anne
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S

just before doing green traverse

with Martin Woodhead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
eduardo 27/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Mark H
Nicos 12/May/04 Lead O/S

my first E1

with mark richardson
Ropeboy 25/Apr/04 Lead
Hidden 06/Dec/03 Lead O/S
Stig 20/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Jonathan + Louise Teale
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Gambit 05/Apr/03 Lead O/S
loonyclimber ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/01 Lead
Hidden 20/May/01 Lead
Hidden 07/May/01 TR
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead
Hidden 20/Aug/00 Lead
Martin Bennett 14/May/00 -
with RA
Hidden 19/Mar/00 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 18/Jul/99 Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 18/Jul/99 2nd
Spillers ?/May/99 Lead
Gus ??/1999 Lead
with ben rouse
chris sm 31/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/98 2nd
bigphil 19/May/98 Lead O/S
with Phil R
Dave Musgrove Jnr 25/Apr/98 Sent
Roget 08/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with jon
WB 02/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with Lee
r0b 22/Nov/97 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/97 2nd
Hidden 13/Oct/96 Lead
Hidden 16/Jun/96 TR
Hidden 21/Apr/96 TR
Hidden 02/Jul/95 Lead
Phil West ?/Jun/95 Lead dnf
with Steve Wild
nai ??/1995 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/94 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/94 -
Hidden 03/Oct/93 Lead
cragspud ?/Sep/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/93 Lead
Cowflinger ?/Apr/93 Solo O/S
crossleysm ??/1993 Solo


Hidden 21/Jun/92 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/92 Lead
wynaptomos ?/May/92 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/May/92 Lead O/S
with Dave Gurney
Rock to Fakey ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/91 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/90 Lead
NickJH ?/Jul/90 Lead
with I Smith
Hidden 19/Nov/89 2nd
Andy Say 02/Jul/89 Solo
Hidden 23/May/89 Lead
Hidden 29/Dec/88 Lead
phardman 15/Jun/88 Lead O/S


with John Lloyd
Hidden 01/Jun/88 Lead
Rob Davies ?/May/88 2nd

Think I backed off leading this

goi.ashmore 20/Mar/88 Solo O/S
Chris Ellis 11/Jul/87 TR
with Karen Veale
Hidden 17/Jun/87 Lead
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! ?/Jun/87 TR O/S
with Ian Sheppard
Hidden ?/Sep/86 Lead O/S
Michael Hood 20/Jul/86 Lead
sadams 03/May/86 2nd
with Mark Bonham
Hidden 24/Apr/85 2nd
GordonHart ??/1985 Solo O/S
mark-abz 13/Nov/84 TR
Hidden 19/May/84 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/84 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/84 -
stp 03/Mar/84 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/83 Lead
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Dave Musgrove 05/Apr/80 Solo
with Kim Greenald
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Votes cast 47
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