UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
The thin elegant slab, traverse off along the break. © Rockfax

FA. Johnny Dawes 1984.

Ticklists

Peak Bouldering's 7a's , The Black Circuit - Stanage , Peak Bouldering - Eastern Grit bold-star up-problems - 7A+Bs , Peak Rock/18/A Boulder Primer , Peak District Slabtastic , Font-esque dans la PEAK , Peak boulders , All the boulders , The grit list , Peak low 7s , Sam's Peak Adventures , BMC highballs , Peak 200 , The peak shortlist , Peak bouldering 2021 6b - 7b+ and a bit of trad , Peak 7as , Stanage Slab , Peak Boudering 3 Star 7a/+'s , JDs Gritstone Guide , 2023 Winter Motivation , Local 7's (a/+'s) , Peel's Primo Projects , Peak Slabs for the People , Sheffield , Alphabet challenge 2024 , Mix of bits , Flexibility dependant Grit 7s

Feedback

User Date Notes
robert mirfin 9 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: It`s E3 6B without mats or spotters
Show beta
βeta: It`s E3 6B without mats or spotters
Fiend 9 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Only English 6a, as it's covered in (relatively) good holds and the moves are obvious (and great) - but very committing! Definitely gets the highball juices going. Must have been pretty grim as an E3 before mats o_O.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only English 6a, as it's covered in (relatively) good holds and the moves are obvious (and great) - but very committing! Definitely gets the highball juices going. Must have been pretty grim as an E3 before mats o_O.
Rin C 20 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: sublime! Prepare by taking your middle finger to the gym for a week or two, then dip in vinegar overnight and jump on and pull for England. You know it's worth it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: sublime! Prepare by taking your middle finger to the gym for a week or two, then dip in vinegar overnight and jump on and pull for England. You know it's worth it!
Ropeboy 1 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A lovely problem and it's not over once you've stood up, there's another tricky move to do if you're short.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A lovely problem and it's not over once you've stood up, there's another tricky move to do if you're short.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Elephant Hawk Moth

Grade: f7A ***
(Crich Tors)

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