20m.

Rockfax Description
The soaring chimney is usually avoided! The bell-shaped upper section is the crux. Good gear is available in the depths of the rift, though it is hard to place, especially with a helmet on! © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne 1933

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, In Peak Rock, Stanage Chimney Tour, UK road to wide crack mastery, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Stanage Plantation

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Martin Cooper 3 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Try back and footing up the outside of the crack- it worked for me and wasn't too bad. If you get caught in the deep recesses.... heaven help you
 
Show beta
βeta: Try back and footing up the outside of the crack- it worked for me and wasn't too bad. If you get caught in the deep recesses.... heaven help you
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Gordon W 27 Oct Lead O/S hardest route of the day despite being the lowest grade
with Henry
hardest route of the day despite being the lowest grade
with Henry
pearson9596 15 Sep 2nd O/S
tcn_2002 15 Sep Lead dog
Martin Bagshaw 31 Aug Lead O/S
RevTyler 31 Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 26 Jul Lead dnf
daveclarke5 7 Jul 2nd
with Stephen
with Stephen
James Oakes 4 May Lead O/S
CRead 13 Apr Lead O/S Mega adventure! Tricky leaving the chimney. Finishing up the arete above felt logical
Mega adventure! Tricky leaving the chimney. Finishing up the arete above felt logical
@samtaylorphotos 13 Apr 2nd dog hard lol
with CRead
hard lol
with CRead
Hidden 28 Feb 2nd
OliverRoss 28 Feb Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf
mskngch 9 Jun, 2018 Lead
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 9 Jun, 2018 2nd dog
with mskngch
with mskngch
FaffmasterG 19 May, 2018 2nd dnf Ouch
Ouch
Hidden 21 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 21 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S A great route, gets the whole body involved. Big green or purple cam would come in pretty handy.
with Ruairidh (CC)
A great route, gets the whole body involved. Big green or purple cam would come in pretty handy.
with Ruairidh (CC)
jake lee 20 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Melonfly 20 Aug, 2017 2nd dog
keitht 8 Jul, 2017 2nd
dewiturton 8 Jul, 2017 Lead
with keitht
with keitht
andrzej kierzek 22 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf
Flavio 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Charlie Low 16 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Psyched!!! First grit E1, one of the first routes being short has been a good thing!
Psyched!!! First grit E1, one of the first routes being short has been a good thing!
morganator 20 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Neil McAdie
with Neil McAdie
Neil McA 20 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
with Nick Wallace, Dave Sykes, martin cooper, morganator
with Nick Wallace, Dave Sykes, martin cooper, morganator
ralphio 20 Apr, 2016 2nd dog Full body workout.
with Neil
Full body workout.
with Neil
patrickcd 20 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Ed
with Ed
Dan Mckinlay ??, 2016 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 3 Oct, 2015 2nd dog
with RM199
with RM199
RM199 3 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
Neil 24 Aug, 2015 Lead dog Fell after being lured into the back by the promise of good jams and getting thoroughly worked trying to move up from the narrowing!
Fell after being lured into the back by the promise of good jams and getting thoroughly worked trying to move up from the narrowing!
Carl Watkins 24 Aug, 2015 2nd dog
with Neil
with Neil
Hidden 11 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
helin 11 Aug, 2015 2nd
Ian Hylands 9 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Wow! Hard work. Spent a while in the back looking for protection I could reach, but there wasn't any so started back and footing up. Reached a dodgy big cam, then a dodgy blue can, and finally a bomb-proof yellow. Hard work getting high enough to reach any hand-holds and feet nearly slipped off the green - had to retreat for a rest just below and try again. Grabbed the break and had a breather. Bloodied elbows! Oh yeah - first 'real' E1 lead!!
Wow! Hard work. Spent a while in the back looking for protection I could reach, but there wasn't any so started back and footing up. Reached a dodgy big cam, then a dodgy blue can, and finally a bomb-proof yellow. Hard work getting high enough to reach any hand-holds and feet nearly slipped off the green - had to retreat for a rest just below and try again. Grabbed the break and had a breather. Bloodied elbows! Oh yeah - first 'real' E1 lead!!
Andy Peak 1 5 Aug, 2015 2nd
tomwright1509 8 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
joedean ?Jul, 2015 Lead dirty off width
dirty off width
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
boulderholder 30 May, 2015 2nd dog
ashtond6 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S absolutely amazing! grazed knees, wear jeans...
absolutely amazing! grazed knees, wear jeans...
Canyak ??, 2015 -
Nick205228 ??, 2015 Lead
masa-alpin 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Unique climb! Moves are slightly harder than Strapiombo in Tremadog, but a lot shorter. I wish it would be longer.
with Tony H
Unique climb! Moves are slightly harder than Strapiombo in Tremadog, but a lot shorter. I wish it would be longer.
with Tony H
gazfellows 9 Jul, 2014 Lead The hardest chimney I've done for a while !! Definitely worth all of E1 5b. Proper old school class. X
with Nic
The hardest chimney I've done for a while !! Definitely worth all of E1 5b. Proper old school class. X
with Nic
Alex Hallam 15 May, 2014 2nd O/S Face right, wear trousers. Brilliant.
Face right, wear trousers. Brilliant.
dannyboy83 15 May, 2014 Lead O/S
soph 9 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Haydn Jones 4 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 4 Mar, 2014 Lead Brilliant fight up the crack
with Hayden Jones
Brilliant fight up the crack
with Hayden Jones
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
andi turner ??, 2014 - Climbed way back on day 2 of 100
with Adam Long
Climbed way back on day 2 of 100
with Adam Long
sopaz 22 Dec, 2013 2nd dog
admackie 22 Dec, 2013 - felt steady but a lot of blood came out for some reason
with sopaz
felt steady but a lot of blood came out for some reason
with sopaz
deacondeacon 13 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Really hot day, proper battle.
Really hot day, proper battle.
Jack93 3 Jun, 2013 Lead dog I lost so much skin trying to place gear at the back of the chimney
I lost so much skin trying to place gear at the back of the chimney
cpt_crunch 3 Jun, 2013 2nd β
with Jack93
with Jack93
joe1joe1joe2 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S Hard bloody work.
Hard bloody work.
dom_joyce265 26 May, 2013 2nd RP horrendous but hilarious
horrendous but hilarious
phillipwright 26 May, 2013 2nd
Hidden 10 May, 2013 2nd dog
Nick1812P 28 Aug, 2012 2nd rpt after backing off
after backing off
Hidden 28 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Alex@home 14 May, 2012 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
with The Doctor
buxtoncoffeelover 29 Sep, 2011 2nd
nige 3 Sep, 2011 Lead
with colin struthers, mark hounslea
with colin struthers, mark hounslea
Brown 9 Aug, 2011 Lead
JRae 3 Jun, 2011 Lead
with M Scott
with M Scott
CRiddiford 3 Jun, 2011 2nd
with Paul L
with Paul L
Hidden 3 Jun, 2011 Lead
Hidden 1 May, 2011 Lead dnf
M_W_Court 9 Apr, 2011 2nd dog
elCapitano 9 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
Kyuzo 20 Mar, 2011 -
uphillnow ??, 2011 -
walts4 ??, 2011 -
Hidden 17 Oct, 2010 Lead
Hidden 17 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
tlmarjot 17 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S
with Chris Todd, ben_lea
with Chris Todd, ben_lea
Hidden 17 Oct, 2010 2nd
andrea83 2 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S Excellent. Nice chimney climb. Easier to second without gear around harness.
Excellent. Nice chimney climb. Easier to second without gear around harness.
Graeme Hammond 2 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S faced right, good old fashioned back and foot climbing EXCELLENT!!
faced right, good old fashioned back and foot climbing EXCELLENT!!
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ?Dec, 2009 -
Hidden 4 Oct, 2009 2nd dnf
Hidden 4 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 27 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Gritty
Gritty
Helen Gibson 14 Sep, 2009 2nd great, to lead sometime.
with dan
great, to lead sometime.
with dan
dan gibson 14 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Mike_Hayes 13 Sep, 2009 -
Mr Sparkle 13 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
sparkass 13 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Full value
with figfour
Full value
with figfour
Boy ?Sep, 2009 -
with Nige Kershaw
with Nige Kershaw
Mr Wild 1 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Roughly the Date
Roughly the Date
Si Witcher 2 May, 2009 2nd rpt with Al on his Stag
with Al on his Stag
wahniel 11 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S If peapod, goliath's groove and the trident are HVS, then so should this be. Or are they all E1? I don't think so, they are all safe as houses.
with Gerd Heinz Bentheim
If peapod, goliath's groove and the trident are HVS, then so should this be. Or are they all E1? I don't think so, they are all safe as houses.
with Gerd Heinz Bentheim
joshwales 24 Aug, 2008 Lead rpt
with andy bowman, rebecca bowman
with andy bowman, rebecca bowman
mel holmes 30 Jul, 2008 Lead
with Alex@home
with Alex@home
Hidden 17 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
DannyK 3 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with pep
with pep
The old James turnbull ?May, 2008 Lead
with aiden
with aiden
Dan 85 26 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S
with Nicos
with Nicos
Andrew Sloan 17 Feb, 2008 Lead rpt
Hidden ??, 2008 -
nacnud 20 Oct, 2007 2nd
Duncan I ??, 2007 -
Andrew Sloan 27 Dec, 2006 Lead dnf
Si dH 5 Nov, 2006 2nd O/S Tom led as his first E1! Awesome route, quite hard work, although not so bad as I'd expected - I learnt how to chimey a bit :) Was chuffed to make it up clean.
with Neil Furniss/Tom Lambert
Tom led as his first E1! Awesome route, quite hard work, although not so bad as I'd expected - I learnt how to chimey a bit :) Was chuffed to make it up clean.
with Neil Furniss/Tom Lambert
Hidden 17 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 16 Jul, 2006 Lead what a fight, made about one metre of upward progress in 15minutes an absolute battle.
what a fight, made about one metre of upward progress in 15minutes an absolute battle.
Stig 4 May, 2006 2nd dog
with Chris
with Chris
Rob Davies 16 Apr, 2006 2nd Very green. Phil finished it after a lot of faffing around from the three of us
with Angus McLean, Phil A
Very green. Phil finished it after a lot of faffing around from the three of us
with Angus McLean, Phil A
King Rat ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Ben Bransby ??, 2000 Solo
cpoad 25 Sep, 1999 TR dnf Couldn't get out the top of the chimney.
with Clare F
Couldn't get out the top of the chimney.
with Clare F
Jon Read ?Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 1999 AltLd O/S
Simon Pearce ??, 1999 -
craig h 21 Jun, 1998 2nd O/S
with Luke Steer
with Luke Steer
Dave Musgrove ?Apr, 1998 Lead
RossG123 ??, 1997 Solo
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
Hidden 24 Apr, 1993 2nd
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
Rob Davies ?Jul, 1987 2nd Much harder than Tower Crack
with Brian H
Much harder than Tower Crack
with Brian H
Hammy 20 Jun, 1981 2nd
with Rob Lawson
with Rob Lawson
Andy Say 20 Sep, 1979 Lead
clanger ??, 1972 -
mikej 5 Oct, 1969 Lead
with E C/W
with E C/W
mikej 28 Apr, 1968 2nd
with Geoff Williams
with Geoff Williams
Hidden 11 Jun, 1966 Lead
Hidden 8 May, 1965 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 27
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set