Rockfax Description
An excellent route which is mild but bold. Climb the centre of the face (creaky) to a rest out left. An odd sideways nut protects the moves up and right to the base of the superb upper flake. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1956

Ticklists: Stanage: My Favourite Five, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Work Hard, Play Hard, Ultimate E2 ticklist, 50 of the Best, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4, Memorable Climbs.

Christina 17/Sep 2nd

The rope may have helped me stick the crux

with Paul Clarkson
Will Webb 16/Sep Lead
with Alex
deejmonkey 16/Sep Lead

superb route

with ben tibbets, len, Damian
AF Webb 16/Sep TR
Elaine Reed 22/Aug 2nd O/S

Loved this climb! The crux move with the friction hold plus the pebble was awesome, as was the rest of the route.

with Rob
Rob McGurk 22/Aug Lead O/S

Astoundingly good. A real stand out line. The bottom was pleasant, and I got some lovely sinker nuts in. The move off the hollow flake committed me to what was above. I was moderately terrified at the crux, and may have expressed this rather vocally... Committing to the tiny foothold took a while, after which it was all systems go through the slopers to the relief of the big flake and some gear!

with E.Reed
mskngch 13/Aug Lead O/S
cem 13/Aug 2nd rpt
with Celso Barbosa, Masaki Noguchi
lusonavigator 13/Aug 2nd

Masaki's lead

with Masaki, cem
Carl 06/Aug Lead O/S

Couldn't get anything decent in the flake, had some bomber gear below but would have been a long fall. The move itself was fine once I committed to it.

with Alix, Christa
Christabel Goode 06/Aug 2nd O/S
with Carl
Rory_Cummings_NI 05/Aug Lead O/S
with Paul, Ian, Dom
pingora 05/Aug 2nd O/S
Paul Baxter 05/Aug 2nd β
DavidMcK 31/Jul Lead O/S
Ben Bransby 31/Jul Lead
Michael Morrell 31/Jul 2nd

Found it pretty steady, may come back soon and lead it!

MNC 29/Jul Lead rpt
with Sarah
SarahConnor 29/Jul 2nd
with MNC
FrancisI 28/Jul TR O/S
with David
Keith Swainson 08/Jul Lead O/S

Had lead tower face previously, E2 bits o/s today, straightforward 5b climbing uninspiring gear.

Georgie25 08/Jul 2nd
keitht 08/Jul Lead
dewiturton 08/Jul 2nd
with keitht
charley 02/Jul Lead O/S
with Jack
jack01 02/Jul Lead O/S
with charley
royle883 24/Jun Lead O/S
The Grist 15/Jun Lead O/S
Adamski1986 29/May Lead O/S
with Gema Martin Ordas
ngmo 28/May 2nd
with Adam Gregg
Mr. K 21/May 2nd O/S
R Brown 21/May 2nd rpt
with Pete Dollman, Mr. K
robgixer 13/May Lead O/S
Robb Bert 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Steve George
will rivers 04/Apr Lead O/S

Awesome route!

Tom Pillow 04/Apr 2nd O/S
lukey13 25/Mar TR β
with James :#, Emma :)
Hidden 16/Mar 2nd
FelixJT 12/Mar 2nd
WilliamRupp 12/Mar Lead O/S
with felix
Conor Nally 18/Feb Lead
aliReid 18/Feb TR β
birks3746 18/Feb Lead rpt

2nd'ed it this time last year, felt pretty straight forward this time. Bit of foot movement in the indentation at the crux just to make things exciting. Really nice route

with American Matt
Oliver Smaje 18/Feb 2nd O/S
Mike505 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S
eb202 13/Nov/16 2nd O/S
with Michael
Markheighton 08/Oct/16 2nd
Tony Holdsworth 08/Oct/16 2nd O/S

John Led

with Martin Haworth, John Brannock
Brannock 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
DanOsb 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Charlotte
MNC 02/Oct/16 2nd
with Rob
robertmichaellovell 02/Oct/16 Lead
with Mark C
Wizzy 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
James Oswald 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Good climbing. Not as bold as I thought - Nigel found a good wire in the middle of the runout, I missed it however..

with Nigel
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
gpcomps 29/Aug/16 TR O/S
with Mark L, Andrew
Davidchatterton 23/Aug/16 Lead RP
with heyhoot
Hidden 23/Aug/16 Lead RP
mikkistorey 12/Aug/16 2nd

with Liz. Put in sideways nut, then look on left for a pebble. Mantle this to reach up. I did it dynamically.

Rob Gillespie 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/16 Lead
Droyd 25/Jul/16 Lead O/S

The sideways nut is definitely pretty bomber if you get the right one, and the crux was actually fairly easy in the end. Very creaky lower flake though, but the upper one more than makes up for it. Superb route.

with Chris L
markfairbank 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Didn't feel that soft to me, didn't really trust those sideways nuts

Anne Gumbley 24/Jul/16 2nd dog
Chris Murray 17/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
DanChad 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

My second E2 lead.

Dizz 10/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Paul Tanton
PaulTanton 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Liz
Col Kingshott 06/Jul/16 2nd
martinbettridge06 06/Jul/16 2nd O/S
tim.fairhall 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Steve
Davidchatterton 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with heyhoot
M_Robinson 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Ian Robinson
hervenuttall ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Beth, Matt or Marcus
No? Yes! 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Dubious large slanted( hex in my case ! ) wire to protect crux

RFWilkie 28/May/16 Lead rpt
greenclimb 22/May/16 Lead rpt
kermit_uk 15/May/16 Lead O/S
chancer 07/May/16 Lead rpt
with Marc Duhig
marcduhig 07/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/16 2nd O/S
dom94 04/May/16 Lead O/S
max_chan 04/May/16 2nd rpt
scarmichael 01/May/16 Lead O/S

the creaky flake and spitting rain made for a spicy crux

with Steve Wooton
Antonio Ferra ?/May/16 Lead O/S
sann1458 23/Apr/16 -
MischaHY 23/Apr/16 Solo O/S

Joyful, if creaky. Definitely worthwhile!

Cake 23/Apr/16 2nd rpt

Points 24, 25

morganator 20/Apr/16 2nd O/S
samt 20/Apr/16 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 20/Apr/16 2nd

Beautiful evening

with Sam Townsend
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Cake 03/Apr/16 2nd rpt
eel 03/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with Anna
R Brown 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Pete Dollman
birks3746 25/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 13/Mar/16 2nd rpt
with John
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
mrteale 06/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Felt tougher than expected and I was glad to find the curious nut placement. Great climbing.

with Chris M
Hidden 06/Mar/16 2nd rpt
pete1993 23/Feb/16 Lead rpt

one move wonder but fantastic route

F.Wish ??/2016 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 31/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Bloody terrifying, freezing cold and sideways wire perhaps 5/10. Spent about 20 minutes messing around and warming hands up before committing and sketching into the top flake and deciding that was enough trad climbing for one day!

Hidden 31/Dec/15 2nd dog
Kassius 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
rushy11111918 08/Oct/15 TR
GPN 04/Oct/15 Lead
with Annette
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead
net 04/Oct/15 2nd
with George
Sam McCarthy 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 04/Oct/15 2nd
with David Smart
Andy Peak 1 02/Oct/15 Lead rpt

Ha ha hot

MarcinGobczynski ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Griff1990 20/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Ian Hylands 20/Sep/15 Lead β

Went to have a look and do the HVS if it looked too iffy. That flake is very dodgy, and actually felt a bit better going for the Direct than teetering rightwards. Sideways nut (red) seemed ok, and managed to get a second (green, poorer) sideways nut in above it. Went for the move, and my foot stuck on the pebble just fine. Once hand was in top break, easy to get feet up and step right to the lovely upper flake. First E2 so hard to judge, but maybe E1 if you know about the sideways nut, E2 if done on sight. Happy to take the tick, anyway!

Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
RichyBOYY 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 13/Sep/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/Sep/15 2nd O/S
David Kay 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S

First route on natural grit in about 6 months. I spent a lot of time on the crux learning to trust the footholds and had to pop a little for the break.

amccann 11/Sep/15 Lead O/S
harry_lewis 11/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/15 2nd β
ianburton 29/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Putting rattley wires behind the hollow and broken flake freaked me out too much to make the last move to the top flake, so I down climbed the whole thing to save for another day.

Dominic Green 23/Aug/15 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 23/Aug/15 Lead
Andy Peak 1 05/Aug/15 2nd
Kirill 01/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Kris Doggett, Colomban MacDowall
Guy Atkinson 18/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Tom Butterworth
Jamie Everitt 12/Jul/15 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Could have decked on the crux, left all my nuts on the ground so felt a lot, lot more than E2.

Guy Atkinson 07/Jul/15 2nd

nice mooove

with Dylan
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Longsufferingropeholder 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Done much harder moves much further above much worse gear on much lower grades. Really nice route though!

C May 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Tim
nick ferro 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Tim Bee
nick ferro 27/Jun/15 2nd rpt
MSchobitz 03/Jun/15 Lead β
boulderholder 30/May/15 Lead β
elCapitano 30/May/15 Lead
with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 30/May/15 2nd O/S
RKirke 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with Banksy
Albachoss 16/May/15 2nd β
drysori 16/May/15 Lead
with Everyone!
chiverstom 16/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/15 Lead O/S
B.D.Shah 10/May/15 2nd dog
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd
spenser 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this, everything feels pretty steady on it. First E2, gear seemed fine for the crux. As worthy of 3 stars as anything else at Stanage.

Hidden 10/May/15 2nd
j.buckley87 04/May/15 Lead O/S
salix 02/May/15 Lead O/S

In the rain. Worrying nut placement. Top flake is amazing!

with Isaac
Gambit 30/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Martin Bagshaw 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S

easy but didn't like the extremely flexible flake!

Hidden 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S
phil64 19/Apr/15 Lead rpt

always great moves... big cam out left at break

oread 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Matt77 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Ben Williams
bigdrew 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Reuben
Hidden 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Montecore 14/Mar/15 TR O/S
with Joris Roulleau
bpw666 14/Mar/15 TR O/S
AlexRenshaw 07/Mar/15 Lead
with Martin, Mirka
Stroppy 04/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Sam Husband 03/Jan/15 2nd O/S

Well it's an easy second..

with Ed
Canyak ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
ralphio 03/Dec/14 2nd

Managed all the moves first go but felt fairly thin. Not quite ready to lead it yet.

with Simon
hailtryfan ?/Nov/14 TR O/S
budchawla 18/Oct/14 2nd β
benkelsey 10/Oct/14 Lead rpt

still soft, gear is fine

with rory wadsworth, Shaun Humphreys
kyaizawa 09/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Scary!! Gear is fairly uninspiring (poor cam, wire behind the hollow flake and the sideways wires as described in the guide), but on the positive, the move isn't too bad when you commit to it...

jon22 05/Oct/14 Lead
with Neil Griffith
Gudge 02/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Lenny 02/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
Gudge 30/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Steve Collings
WillDoyle 10/Sep/14 2nd
Goodstuff 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Super!- been wanting to tick this one for ages, lovely crux move.

SteveJCox ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
alp79 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Enjoyed this route! glad the creaky flakes didn't explode off in my hand.

with Rosa, Jonny Ashton
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Scott Anderson 20/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Having done this on the second I would perhaps give the lead a shot!

with Gav
Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Richard Hession 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Gaz
Jenny Monkey 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/14 TR
Lukem6 09/Aug/14 Lead RP

first E2 lead. :-)

Duncan Campbell 09/Aug/14 2nd

Good lead by bubbles!

with Bubbles
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
eel 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Pete
tom_lewis89 03/Aug/14 TR

Really interesting middle section!

Hidden 20/Jul/14 TR
Hidden 20/Jul/14 TR O/S
Lukem6 02/Jul/14 TR O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd dog
dannyboy83 15/May/14 2nd O/S
bencole 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
wazzalad20 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Lovely crux moves, manage to place a bomber but slightly scary horizontal nut and half a cam below the crux

with anna henshaw
climberchristy 03/May/14 Lead rpt

A great route. Ben led it first then dropped ropes and I led it on his gear. Harder crux than I'd remembered (led it onsight in 2010 with Rich)

with bencole
al123 ?/May/14 2nd
with chris, Henry
etrillaud 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
largejason 04/Apr/14 2nd
mjeffery 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with J, Steve
simon kimber 01/Apr/14 Lead
with Tom Parry
Simon Allcock 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Wilki
nick ferro 30/Mar/14 TR O/S
with Oli Birkill
pie_eater_pete 21/Mar/14 Lead
coffeepot 09/Mar/14 2nd β
with jelaby
jelaby 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
trisimondo 01/Mar/14 TR

Nice route. Will go back and lead

accordion_to_who 01/Mar/14 TR O/S
jmills94 01/Mar/14 TR O/S

done in the setting sun after a decent day - will be back for the lead!

with hugo, simon
Teappleby 26/Feb/14 Lead
MSchobitz 26/Feb/14 2nd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 26/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Wasn't sure about the sideways wire. Definitely better than nothing though. The flake also moved quite a lot when I put a cam under it...

with micki
Matthew Ferrier 26/Feb/14 2nd
Hidden 19/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead
drysori 10/Nov/13 Lead
Matt Harle 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Sidekick 10/Nov/13 Lead
ACK 09/Nov/13 2nd
bwestwood 20/Oct/13 2nd
DanielGyi 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S

One move wonder, still decent enough.

hlegge 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

nice route, bit of a one move wonder.

with Dan Gyi
Peter Reynolds ?/Oct/13 Lead
terragait 21/Sep/13 2nd
with deej
deejmonkey 21/Sep/13 Lead

Amazing route. Ballsy and delicate moves through the crux are rewarded with some great monkey business on the flake above - superb!

with rob, len
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
elCapitano 14/Sep/13 2nd rpt
thetradlad 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S

What a beaut of a route

with Brian Taylor
Gudge 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Excellent route! Gear is ok - good but not bomber sideways nut for crux.

Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
pete1993 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Ben
Fragmod 18/Jun/13 2nd
Jack93 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Chris Redding 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Chosen on a whim. Accidentally became my first E2 lead. Mild indeed, but scary. The 'sideways nut' didn't seem that good to me.

with Jack Knight, Matt Lally
manwithacam 27/May/13 Lead
with Dom
joe1joe1joe2 26/May/13 Lead rpt

Good climb, committing but the moves aren't too tricky.

phillipwright 26/May/13 Lead G/U

Got scared first go, got it second go.

Jake Young 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Bomber side ways nuts and lovely flake romping finish

with Laura
lbarras 06/May/13 2nd O/S
with jake
Alistair Corbett 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with john corbett, sam corbett
alice fuller ?/May/13 2nd O/S
with woj
Guy Wilson 26/Apr/13 -
with Plum, Gavin Moy
Hidden 07/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead
Kayan 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
danJBA 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S
john lynch 15/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Joe Holden, ed luke
JayAyBee ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Pat
Hidden ??/2013 -
adie84 ??/2013 -
dominic lee 02/Dec/12 Solo
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead β
a13x 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
pipof747 04/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Jack.H.92 02/Nov/12 Lead O/S
sopaz 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
bencoope 22/Oct/12 -
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead β
Hidden 21/Oct/12 2nd dog
angus 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

sideways nut?

Hidden 12/Oct/12 2nd rpt
stemill 06/Oct/12 2nd dog
with Mark
AlexRenshaw 06/Oct/12 Lead
with Tim Raffle, Mike Dawes
Diggler 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with stemill
Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
elCapitano 08/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Kenny
Hannes B 02/Sep/12 2nd
with Magnus, Roald, Tom
eduardo 02/Sep/12 2nd rpt

Very nice few moves in the "E2" bit of the route. Pleasant above.

with Misha
Misha 02/Sep/12 Lead

The E2 5b section is pretty short but merits the grade - felt a bit spicy! Enjoyable romp above. Didn't place the sideways nut as it was a bit wobbly (didn't have the right size / shape of nut?).

with Ed
HarryBowyer 31/Aug/12 Lead
with Sam
Hidden 31/Aug/12 2nd dog
jwpil 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Deacon
nic42 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with josh
Julia Chatterton 18/Aug/12 2nd
with Hayden
Haydn Jones 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Got told about the sideways nut after I'd done the route, typical.

with julia
jshields 12/Aug/12 Lead
rustaldo 11/Aug/12 Solo O/S

soft. got a bit scared on the crux.

redjerry ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ben Williams
climbinmunkey 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Best climb of the day! Long and spicy through the crux.

with Helen
climbinmunkey 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Best climb of the day! Long and spicy through the crux.

with Helen
helenstuart 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Mike
max_chan 15/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Steve Carty
Neil R 27/May/12 Lead β
nigel pearson 20/May/12 2nd O/S

robin led the hvs, I seconded the E2.

Nick Russell 19/May/12 Lead O/S

The sideways nut was reassuring enough for me to commit to the move, but I wouldn't want to test it! Soft E2

with Noel
tonanf 16/May/12 Lead dog
with deacon
deacondeacon 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Alex@home 14/May/12 Lead O/S

probably only e1 if you trust the gear

with The Doctor
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
mtempest 06/May/12 Lead

Unexpected slip at initial crack was amusing. Crux was fine with sideways nut.

Steve Waters, Mynydd 06/May/12 2nd

No hands rest below the sideways nut. Surprisingly straightforward crux move provided that you trust said nut which seemed reasonable to me. Didn't think Tower Face could be bettered, but this more direct line is sheer class. E1 5b.

phardman 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Neil R 31/Mar/12 2nd
with Tim
gaz.marshall 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Eddie
stuaart 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Mark
Harry Holmes 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Joanna
Hidden 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
nameless_rob 21/Mar/12 TR dog

Popped off once, but didn't feel too far out of my depth.

with Graham, Paul
AdamBrown 11/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 TR O/S
RyanC 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Knut ??/2012 2nd
admackie ??/2012 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan, Tony Millichope
mattorford 23/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd
tgeh 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

crux felt bold

with Felicity
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
stefano_nunes ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
tebs 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Sam
Feneley 16/Oct/11 2nd
Martin Davies 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Amazing route - worth coming back for!

Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
odox 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Great route

jacobjlloyd 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S

I think I led it, mostly. Still a bit drunk from the night before, and the rain on that crux sloper made me unsure of the move. Added to that my underperforming brain didn't find that crucial nut placement, and my belayer had never belayed before. Afraid of the consequences of slipping on the crux and hitting the ground, i traversed out left to the arete, found a good cam slot, and tried to finish up that. It was too hard so i took out the gear again and traversed back right again at the higher break to finish normally. Another brilliant 'we dont need a guidebook' adventure. Thought I was getting on a VS or something, but spent a good twenty minutes playing about on wet slopers with no gear in. Had to ab for the gear in the end to save the freshers from suffering and prussiking.

with freshers!
ian d f 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Placed what I thought was pretty solid gear at the crux, in a laybacky bit. Soft.

with Xandra
missxandrabee 28/Sep/11 2nd
with ian d f
pearson9596 28/Sep/11 2nd O/S
stevorobs3 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Tim Culwick, Michael Pearson
chrisbussell 20/Sep/11 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Alex Winter 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Sideways nut fell out promptly upon committing to crux. Nice route.

with Doug, W. Morgan
Douglas 18/Sep/11 2nd
with Will Morgan, Alex Winter
disturbed_one51 11/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Alex Thomson 03/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd
nicolat ?/Sep/11 2nd
with James Mitchell
Nigel Bond 31/Aug/11 TR
with Bern Hardman
andyjirvin 30/Aug/11 Lead β

AB gave me the right nut for the crux. Stopped for ages to think about the moves, but when committed it turns out they were easy. Don't think I really trusted the nut. Actually quite easy climbing. If you can get bomber gear at the crux then only E1, maybe even HVS.

spragglerocks 22/Aug/11 Lead β
with Adrian Berry
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/11 TR
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
nickmattia 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Superb route, low in the grade.

with dave b
Jay C 01/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Just resting under the crux working out the sequence and foot slipped, just lost concentration

with Sam W
tomjagger 30/Jul/11 2nd β
with Matt Cooke
gordonday 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with clive
Nick1812P 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd β
JRae 20/Jun/11 Lead
with J Gallant, Martin Court
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead
cobweb 11/Jun/11 Lead
with martyn hopson
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/11 -
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/11 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 27/Apr/11 Lead

Great fun, those flakes won't last forever! Found the slopers hard to reach but plain sailing after that.

phil.cheeseman 25/Apr/11 Lead dnf
with Jonny Cox
phil.cheeseman 25/Apr/11 TR
with Jonny Cox
richardr 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 TR RP
Lukem6 20/Apr/11 TR O/S

followed after chris's lead.

dennis janisse 20/Apr/11 TR O/S
with lm610, chris hunter, richlee
chris wyatt 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Another one more difficult for the short.. I really enjoyed the romp to the top

with steve tree
Goose4 13/Apr/11 Lead O/S
andysroom 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
GraMc 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

awsome route!, not as bold as expected

with Rhys Black, phil emerson
davidgent 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Parsons
M_W_Court 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
elCapitano 09/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
busdriver 03/Apr/11 2nd

Started hailing on Ben

with Chris
SMc 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Luke
Ollie B 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with M.Rankine
Kyuzo 20/Mar/11 -
joe.91 17/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Awesome climb, more like HVS

with Liam Brown, Sarah Rixham
madasten 12/Mar/11 Lead
with Miquel
D J Williams 11/Mar/11 Lead O/S

nice climb bit hairy reaching across for flake but good footwork takes pressure off

with Dawn
pie_eater_pete 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
bigie bob 03/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jonas Paulsson 03/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Robin Dahlberg
Lucinda 06/Feb/11 2nd
with Giles
Giles1 06/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Lucy
greenclimb 18/Jan/11 Lead rpt
uphillnow ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
Chris_barr ??/2011 Lead β
with Bob
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mwatson ??/2011 -
arandall 14/Nov/10 Lead dnf

Got scared on the lead, even though i found it easyish on the second in the summer. Not too disappointed, im normally a HVS leader so it was a bit ambitious

Batt 30/Oct/10 2nd

Top roped while J was still on belay of tower face. Used scoop and pebble on face, rhs of funny hold for left and break for right and pull up then reach up

Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd
tri-nitro-tuolumne 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Rich Guest
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead β
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 05/Oct/10 Lead O/S
pastep 26/Sep/10 Lead
with Tibor
ebf 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Still fun. Still easy! E1, max.

Hannes B 24/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Shane
ClaireS 12/Sep/10 2nd
leon 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S

On a coaching day with adrian berry. Interesting to look at the photos, I went up right of the bomber nut placement when everyone else seems to go left.

with Steven Davidson
Pythonist 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Lower moves warm up, only a single 5b crux, then a wonderful romp to the top on the flake. Great, but very easy E2 - only fluttery if you don't believe the gear.

Liam Ingram 01/Sep/10 2nd dog
theotherpetehill 28/Aug/10 Lead β

Not very hard, not very bold (that nut's bomber if you set it right). I'd say E1 really.

chrisallan 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
catblack 25/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Not sure why this is E2, its pretty soft - really nice crux moves though. A little scary, as the flake is really hollow and any gear behind it might well rip if you fell, the other gear is okayish, but i'm glad i didn't have to test it out!

with Skippy
benkelsey 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt

lead as first E2 having seconded it three years earlier.. seriously soft for E2 as nut seems (:s) not too bad

Cake 19/Jul/10 Lead O/S

E1 in my opinion, nor is it worth *** as it is not sustained, but still quality. Nut is better the more it is pulled vertically downwards.

with Phil B, Matt
Hidden 19/Jul/10 2nd
philboy 19/Jul/10 2nd
arandall ?/Jul/10 2nd O/S
petellis 28/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Fine enough climbing but maybe you have to lead it to get what all the fuss is about.

mattyork2 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 28/May/10 Lead O/S

Superb climbing all the way. Adequate protection.

with Ivan
rikbattye 25/May/10 Lead O/S
peaches69 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with sarah
davross1986 08/Apr/10 TR O/S

very enjoyable with a great finish that gets easier. looking forward to leading it next time

with Natalie Hutchinson
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
tom.e 25/Mar/10 2nd rpt
with Malcolm
dj_brigham05 14/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
mark20 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Phil Emerson ?/Feb/10 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
TonyF ??/2010 -
akhughes ??/2010 -
keith leonard ??/2010 Lead
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
Hidden 13/Dec/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
skittles 31/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Will lead the route, amazing climb

with will johnson, Jonathan Vardy
Sophie Nunn 10/Oct/09 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
perfectlynormalbeast 04/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Loved it. Hardest route I've cleanly seconded.

with Rich Lines
Jim Slater 27/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Eric, Mark Mercer
Wood for Trees 21/Sep/09 Lead β

gear in, easily placed. very good move, full confidence in the sideways nut so probably only E1 5b in comparison to others

with tom martin
C Mclean 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Joe Ward
JDDD 13/Sep/09 2nd
alexyoung 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Great route. Crux rewards good footwork. But then again, don't most things.

Dave Foster 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Lovely climbing with gear where it counts. Wouldn't want to blow it straight after the crux, there's still a move until good gear arrives.

with Alex
Lumbering Oaf 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
RFWilkie 12/Sep/09 TR O/S
Shad ?/Sep/09 Lead

First E2 lead (even if it's low in the grade!)

chris sm 29/Aug/09 2nd rpt

Pip's first E2.

with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

First E2

Different Steve 25/Jul/09 2nd rpt
with Guy Reid
PaulHermes 12/Jul/09 2nd
with Stewart VCCC
ebf 12/Jul/09 Lead RP

Not E2 in a million years. Maybe E1, possibly even HVS.

PaulHermes 12/Jul/09 2nd
with Stewart VCCC
rurp ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
barni 22/Jun/09 Lead β
with Strong Jon
HimTiggins 21/Jun/09 Lead rpt

Still fantastic, still not E2!

with John
AngelaC 18/Jun/09 Lead
smudge 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Rob
Joe Dove 13/Jun/09 Lead
BeccaSnowden 11/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Tom
thomasadixon 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Very good climbing, soft for E2.

with Becca
London Luke ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 31/May/09 Lead O/S

Should've read the description better, didn't spot the nut placement for the crux!

Hidden 28/May/09 TR
Lewis Andrew 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Fred Prall
tuftynick ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd
ojp 18/Apr/09 TR

First time outdoors.

Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Sankey 05/Apr/09 2nd
with Luke
danfitz ?/Apr/09 TR O/S
tatz45 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Pete Morgan
w.pettet-smith 12/Mar/09 2nd

gutted not to have lead it.

with duncan the quiet american
ChalkBall 10/Mar/09 2nd O/S
AndyM-LVB 07/Mar/09 2nd β

Not hard, but wouldn't want to lead it!

with Nicolas Tardy
Harald 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Feb/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
michaelja ?/Feb/09 Lead
Hidden 23/Dec/08 2nd rpt
Mattyk 23/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Spent a while at crux. Made a bit of a hash of it but wasn't that bad really, rest of route is very easy (like about severe) and a fall from the crux even if the sideways nut doesn't hold would not be game-over.. Had seen photo of this route ages ago and had been on my ticklist for a while. Pleased with this at the end of a good year.

with Ali K
PenJD 25/Nov/08 Lead O/S
metal arms 31/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Tim W 19/Oct/08 2nd O/S
darren1 19/Oct/08 Lead
cy 18/Oct/08 2nd
with Al
Al Franks 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
RagingPuffin 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
wilchivs 18/Oct/08 Lead dnf

I would have done it if some unhelpful twat at the bottom hadn't said there was a step to the right and neglected to tell me that made it HVS!

tom.e 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Gus 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Claire Taylor 08/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Graham Plant
GrahamPlant 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S

First E2

with Claire Taylor
Skell 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
benkelsey ?/Oct/08 2nd O/S

need to lead it next time... can't wait already

max_chan 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

First E2.

with Lou
sparkass 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 24/Sep/08 Lead O/S

I had the wrong type of sideways nut below the crux. Not certain about its solidity.

with PeakDJ
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/08 2nd
Matt Fry 17/Sep/08 2nd O/S
thrutch 17/Sep/08 Lead
with Matt
Tim Steward 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Cayzer
Dave Rumney 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S

very contrived for a 3 star route

with Sean Roberts
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead
Jim Slater 16/Aug/08 Lead β

Coaching day with Adrian Berry. Led with pre-placed gear.

with Adrian Berry, Alan Smith
riddle 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Amazing route, the hollow flakes dont inspire confidence!

with Yasmina
Hidden 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/08 2nd O/S
al99 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Whitlock
jw231 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Al Benson
Creep_pea 02/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Alex, Chris, Fly, Dloph, Olly, Walsh, Ed
M_W_Court 28/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/08 Lead O/S
IanJackson 30/Jun/08 Solo
phil hay 14/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with derek kenyon
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/08 TR
Ian Broome 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Bob
Brown 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
gethin_allen ?/Jun/08 2nd
with neil
roberto18 26/May/08 Lead

it might be low in the grade but dont underestimate it. I slipped on the pebble and somehow caught myself. It made me think and I was a good 10mins before I could commit to it.

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
mike bridges 22/May/08 2nd O/S

Good bold lead by Rob,I thought he was off on the crux,but he held it together to reach the flake and gear.(he`d totally missed a possible sideways hex slot above the lower flake!)

burto 20/May/08 Lead O/S
with hertha
Hertha 20/May/08 2nd
with Burto
OffshoreAndy 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with NCC Kelvin
TomHaigh 14/May/08 2nd O/S
with Doug
Mark Walter 10/May/08 2nd O/S
Eccentric 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/08 Lead O/S
Creep_pea 07/May/08 2nd O/S
with Jim, Tom
Si dH 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Wasnt sure whetehr I trused the sideways nut or not. I think I probably did. But I took a long time to commit to the pebble and smear! First proper (ie not soft E1) 'Extreme' onsight in over a year and first E2 in 22 months!

with Mark
Mr Sparkle 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Hayley
Steerpike 16/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Bruce
stuartberg 01/Apr/08 TR O/S
IanJackson 16/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Robeverybody
Indus ?/Mar/08 Lead
with Steve Winter
Dan 85 26/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Nicos
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Mr Powly 24/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Phill Mitch ??/2008 Lead O/S
with dave
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
jonnybull ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Rab
Hidden 23/Oct/07 Lead β
nacnud 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 20/Oct/07 Lead β

Not proper onsight cos belayed Rob prior to ascent. Softest E2 in the peak? Felt about HVS to me but depends on what you make of the sideways nut I guess - I thought it to be fairly good. A good route but, with an easy start and easier finish, is it too imbalanced to be 3*?

with Robin
williap 06/Oct/07 2nd

Loved this route! And i seconded it without a fall:D

with The Bull
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd rpt
Joe Dove 23/Sep/07 2nd
with kev
Hidden 16/Sep/07 Lead rpt
ThomN 15/Sep/07 TR O/S
with munro
furry 08/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Paul W
tlr 07/Sep/07 2nd
with Pom
nai 07/Sep/07 Lead O/S

First E2 for about 10 years, albeit an easy one. Probably easier than Fern Crack.

with Tim
Piers Harley 27/Aug/07 Lead dnf
with Simon Clark
shoulders 04/Aug/07 Lead
gregarding ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Josh Rigby, Jenny Stevens
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead
gazfellows 28/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/07 Lead rpt
timo.t 24/May/07 Lead O/S
with Rob, Mark
HimTiggins 22/May/07 Lead O/S
with Paul
Fraser13 15/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/07 2nd
v.jester ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Lucy
dan gibson 02/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with jon redshaw
JPGR 02/Mar/07 2nd
with Daniel
maybe_si 02/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with charlie
Nicos 23/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with dan woolnough
eley1 ?/Jan/07 2nd
with dave
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead O/S
with James Fleming
Piers Harley ??/2007 Lead dnf
with Simon Clark
mattpw ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S

First E2! Dodgy flake unlikely to take a fall.

Luke Brooks 22/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Easy at E2, placed a wierd sideways friend instead of the nut which might have held, but I wasn't too bothered!

peter myers ?/Sep/06 TR
with Matt Eyre
Stig 30/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 20/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 09/Jun/06 -
with Steve Goodman
thrutch 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S

decided to push on a bit this year after reading abbout the guy who went from HVS to E4 in one year. This is my second day on grit this year and I'm up to E2 5b. As good as i've ever done before

with johnny b
Hidden 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Gambit 11/May/06 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 16/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Lev 16/Apr/06 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Hidden 05/Oct/05 TR
French Erick 04/Sep/05 AltLd
Dave Kerr 04/Sep/05 AltLd
with Erick Baillot
LoopyLou ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S
with Mike Peak
Alex Mason ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S

this was awesome route didnt look in the guide just knew what route it was! conjoured up the idea of the sideways nut in the two crimps looked in book and saw it notifies you of the sideways nut but still awesome climbing

cem 14/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/05 2nd dog
reg_measures 18/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with steve burdett
Hidden 14/Jun/05 2nd O/S
spidey 02/Jun/05 Lead RP
Ropeboy 22/May/05 Lead
Mutl3y ?/May/05 2nd dog
with Tony
Macca_7 23/Apr/05 Lead O/S

What a lovely route to cap a great day on the grit

with Ann Fisher
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S

Watched partner lead first but took no beta. Quite perplexing moves at crux although I considered the gear to be solid. Overall the route is excellent

Hidden 30/Mar/05 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 22/Jan/05 Lead O/S
with Ed
ukb & bmc shark 21/Jan/05 Lead O/S
Iggy_B 21/Jan/05 2nd
Coel Hellier ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 01/Dec/04 Lead β
Mark A Humphries 01/Dec/04 Lead β
with dean howard
Hidden ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
gonggashan ?/Sep/04 2nd O/S
with Andrew Balnaves
Mark Collins 11/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 11/Jul/04 2nd β

Pleased with this one

with Mark Collins
Hidden ?/Jul/04 2nd O/S
robin heath 24/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Carl Riley
Hidden 25/Apr/04 2nd
Mark Stevenson 09/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Fiend
willackers ??/2004 Lead O/S
with J.Bickerstaff
datoon 03/Sep/03 2nd O/S
with C
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/02 2nd
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S

Not sure about date. Missed the sideways nut and placed a rubbish friend instead

with Daz
Duncan I ?/Jul/02 Lead
with Mark Kendrick
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 18/Aug/00 Lead β
with Matt Hirst
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
dan gibson ??/2000 -
John Pickles 14/Jul/99 2nd
with John Short
BlueJohn 13/Jun/99 2nd
with Dieago
Roget 05/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Colin Edwards ??/1998 Lead dog
with Dave Fleet
Mark Riley ??/1996 2nd
with Richard Ibberson
Rich Kirby ?/Jan/95 2nd
with Andy Mackay
The Reaper 23/Jun/94 TR O/S


Hidden 22/Apr/94 -
Hidden 22/Apr/94 -
WB ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Nicola
wynaptomos ?/May/92 2nd O/S
leathers 03/Apr/91 TR O/S
with James Thomas
NickJH ??/1991 Lead
steve taylor ?/Jul/88 Lead
with stumpy
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden ?/May/80 -
Hidden 16/Oct/76 2nd
rogerskews ??/1973 -
with Keith Jenkins
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High E3
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High E2
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Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 148
High 5c
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Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 143
Votes cast 136
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set