UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

26m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the Direct to good nuts then traverse right at one of two levels to a crusty flake just before the arete. Climb to the break then traverse left to gain the superb finishing flake. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Stanage HVS Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
tobyrhodes 5 May Show βeta
βeta: It is ~30 years since I last climbed Tower Face. Still a magnificent route. Still scary in the middle bit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is ~30 years since I last climbed Tower Face. Still a magnificent route. Still scary in the middle bit.
Cake 13 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This wonderful route is gradually ageing. I was reluctant to put gear in either flake
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This wonderful route is gradually ageing. I was reluctant to put gear in either flake
Ropeboy 22 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Found this harder than the Direct!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this harder than the Direct!
Si dH 12 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The flakes were definitely very creaky, I found the move right (think after watching my second I did it the "safer" way) hard but the rest easy. Brilliant combo is t ofinish wit hmiserable miracle.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The flakes were definitely very creaky, I found the move right (think after watching my second I did it the "safer" way) hard but the rest easy. Brilliant combo is t ofinish wit hmiserable miracle.
leon 28 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i concur, an exciting move between the flakes (a touch bold & technical) and then it's a jug fest
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i concur, an exciting move between the flakes (a touch bold & technical) and then it's a jug fest
thebigfriendlymoose 28 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: an exciting move between the flakes - both of which were quite creaky (the weight of the second on the righthand flake made a wire irretrievable). The top flake however is a gigantic juggy joy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: an exciting move between the flakes - both of which were quite creaky (the weight of the second on the righthand flake made a wire irretrievable). The top flake however is a gigantic juggy joy.
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good value for HVS, and definitely worth 3 stars. Superb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good value for HVS, and definitely worth 3 stars. Superb.
Albie 2 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The left flake is looking grim - it 'flexed' even when I lightly loaded it with a small friend. Hence a bold and unprotected move to get to the right flake. Really pleasant layback moves on the top too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The left flake is looking grim - it 'flexed' even when I lightly loaded it with a small friend. Hence a bold and unprotected move to get to the right flake. Really pleasant layback moves on the top too.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 180
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 171
Votes cast 174
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Chequers Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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