UKC

26m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the Direct to good nuts then traverse right at one of two levels to a crusty flake just before the arete. Climb to the break then traverse left to gain the superb finishing flake. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Plantation, Stanage HVS Challenge, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ropeboy 22 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Found this harder than the Direct!
βeta?
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βeta: Found this harder than the Direct!
Si dH 12 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The flakes were definitely very creaky, I found the move right (think after watching my second I did it the "safer" way) hard but the rest easy. Brilliant combo is t ofinish wit hmiserable miracle.
βeta?
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βeta: The flakes were definitely very creaky, I found the move right (think after watching my second I did it the "safer" way) hard but the rest easy. Brilliant combo is t ofinish wit hmiserable miracle.
leon 28 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i concur, an exciting move between the flakes (a touch bold & technical) and then it's a jug fest
βeta?
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βeta: i concur, an exciting move between the flakes (a touch bold & technical) and then it's a jug fest
thebigfriendlymoose 28 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: an exciting move between the flakes - both of which were quite creaky (the weight of the second on the righthand flake made a wire irretrievable). The top flake however is a gigantic juggy joy.
βeta?
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βeta: an exciting move between the flakes - both of which were quite creaky (the weight of the second on the righthand flake made a wire irretrievable). The top flake however is a gigantic juggy joy.
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good value for HVS, and definitely worth 3 stars. Superb.
βeta?
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βeta: Good value for HVS, and definitely worth 3 stars. Superb.
Albie 2 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The left flake is looking grim - it 'flexed' even when I lightly loaded it with a small friend. Hence a bold and unprotected move to get to the right flake. Really pleasant layback moves on the top too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The left flake is looking grim - it 'flexed' even when I lightly loaded it with a small friend. Hence a bold and unprotected move to get to the right flake. Really pleasant layback moves on the top too.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 173
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 163
Votes cast 165
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Twisted Smile

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)
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