UKC

26m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the Direct to good nuts then traverse right at one of two levels to a crusty flake just before the arete. Climb to the break then traverse left to gain the superb finishing flake. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Stanage HVS Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone

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User Date Notes
Cake 13 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This wonderful route is gradually ageing. I was reluctant to put gear in either flake
βeta?
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βeta: This wonderful route is gradually ageing. I was reluctant to put gear in either flake
Ropeboy 22 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Found this harder than the Direct!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this harder than the Direct!
Si dH 12 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The flakes were definitely very creaky, I found the move right (think after watching my second I did it the "safer" way) hard but the rest easy. Brilliant combo is t ofinish wit hmiserable miracle.
βeta?
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βeta: The flakes were definitely very creaky, I found the move right (think after watching my second I did it the "safer" way) hard but the rest easy. Brilliant combo is t ofinish wit hmiserable miracle.
leon 28 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i concur, an exciting move between the flakes (a touch bold & technical) and then it's a jug fest
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i concur, an exciting move between the flakes (a touch bold & technical) and then it's a jug fest
thebigfriendlymoose 28 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: an exciting move between the flakes - both of which were quite creaky (the weight of the second on the righthand flake made a wire irretrievable). The top flake however is a gigantic juggy joy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: an exciting move between the flakes - both of which were quite creaky (the weight of the second on the righthand flake made a wire irretrievable). The top flake however is a gigantic juggy joy.
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good value for HVS, and definitely worth 3 stars. Superb.
βeta?
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βeta: Good value for HVS, and definitely worth 3 stars. Superb.
Albie 2 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The left flake is looking grim - it 'flexed' even when I lightly loaded it with a small friend. Hence a bold and unprotected move to get to the right flake. Really pleasant layback moves on the top too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The left flake is looking grim - it 'flexed' even when I lightly loaded it with a small friend. Hence a bold and unprotected move to get to the right flake. Really pleasant layback moves on the top too.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 179
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 170
Votes cast 173
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Neb Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bamford Edge)

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