UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left arete of the slab, starting from the left. The flake in the break that seesawed snapped years ago. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide).


ClimberDateStyle
SHeapy85 15/Aug/17 2nd O/S

Ooof hard move start and big breaks

with Josh Hadley
Josh Hadley 15/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Gordon W 06/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Rob Law
ned_85 06/Aug/17 2nd
SamStrong93 06/Aug/17 Lead
with Neil
Alkis 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Route 23/36 of the VS Challenge

Hidden 05/Aug/17 2nd
gav 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S

VS Challenge route 24/36. Start time 14:15. A little bold for me. Moves easy enough.

jwdickinson25 08/Jul/17 2nd
with gav
Hidden 05/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
K Mckay 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S

24th route of the Stanage VS Challenge

milena 01/Jul/17 2nd
with Dave
Fraser hill-casey 26/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Route 25/36, 15:15 Went for lunch being as we were close to the plantation car park

evenL 26/Jun/17 Lead O/S
tom_drysdale 09/Jun/17 Lead O/S
CRead 09/Jun/17 2nd
slab_happy 14/May/17 2nd
with Ellie
J.E.Spencer 06/May/17 2nd dog
w-watson 06/May/17 Lead O/S
djones66 23/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Good quality climbing but pretty serious for a VS. Was glad that 'big Steve' led it - impressive first route on a cold windy morning. Had to do a couple of moves definitely harder than 4c, but that may be a reflection of my 'low centre of gravity' (as they say about footballers).

with Stve mc D
Flavio 25/Mar/17 Solo O/S
olddirtydoggy 23/Oct/16 Lead

Massively underated route. Well protected at each level but the moves take a bit of thinking out. More like a bouldering slab. A classic.

with LAJJ
lukevf 23/Oct/16 Lead
with suddy
suddy 23/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Vilius A. 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Rob Powell
Marl 14/Sep/16 Solo O/S

Roped solo ascent

Dan Vaj 30/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Khalid
khalidq 30/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Dan Vaj 29/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Khalid
khalidq 29/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/16 2nd
spragglerocks 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden 23/Aug/16 2nd
James_Kendal 06/Aug/16 2nd
ned_85 03/Jul/16 2nd
Senna 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Ned
Andy Peak 1 ?/Jul/16 Solo
Dan Vaj 28/May/16 2nd O/S
with Khalid
khalidq 28/May/16 Lead O/S
SteveM 22/May/16 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 22/May/16 2nd
with SteveM
MSchobitz 16/May/16 Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 09/May/16 2nd
samkat 20/Apr/16 Lead
with Jon Howson, mike
Hidden 20/Apr/16 2nd rpt
Rockley 10/Apr/16 Lead
with Mowglee
Mowglee 10/Apr/16 2nd O/S

VS challenge

with James
superturbo 25/Mar/16 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
MischaHY 21/Mar/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Jake Young 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Stanage VS Challenge 25 out of 36. balancey techy crux, cool.

Teappleby 25/Oct/15 Lead
Nick1812P 25/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Tom A
silviac 03/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with David Coley
Hidden 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Maia
Hidden 22/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Capricorn One 11/Aug/15 Lead

Sketchy sketchy start (ask your second to wait until you're on the rock before clipping in!), fun climbing after that.

with Nina
NinaR 11/Aug/15 2nd dog

Bit scary stepping onto start. Slipped.

with Jack Lawrence, Greg Bristol
Hidden 09/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
tebs 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Tim
HimTiggins 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Bart
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S

12

with Paul Deane
MYox 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

I actually really enjoyed this: airy.

Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
salix 07/Jun/15 Sent
with Caitlin, Neus
dewiturton 04/Jun/15 2nd
with keitht
keitht 04/Jun/15 Lead

Much better than it looks!

with Dave Lomas, dewiturton
DaveB61 03/Jun/15 Lead
with Dave Peck, Mike Dowsett
MikeDowsett 03/Jun/15 2nd
with Dave Bankart, Dave Peck
Hidden 28/May/15 Lead
ChrisBrooke 23/May/15 2nd
with Duncan Bell
Julesthe1st 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Ali
soph 21/May/15 Solo O/S
morganator 21/May/15 Solo O/S
Jim Walton 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 AltLd
Ele 18/Apr/15 2nd
with Ryan
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Solo
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
RyanOsborne 18/Apr/15 Lead

Found it quite tricky to get onto the slab from the boulder, even with long legs! Couple of nice moves on the route itself.

with Mark, Elena
Mark67 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S

We were not the only ones confused over the start. If the Rockfax route is accurate then VS 4C my arse!

gpcomps 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Starting point was a little confusing and i'd say it was high in the grade

with Mark L
alexmcmillan 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Freshprintce ?/Apr/15 AltLd
kp64zl ?/Apr/15 Lead
with Julian M
Ropeboy 28/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Cold, damp and windy day. Good route, better if I could have felt my hands :-)

Hidden 02/Nov/14 2nd
Mike_Hayes 01/Nov/14 AltLd
with Mike Lea
morganator 01/Sep/14 Solo
with Tony Stone, Tom Bridgeland
Senna 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Palmer 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Boy 19/Aug/14 Solo
dannyboy83 06/Jun/14 Solo O/S
sjbrook 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with PCC, Tim
fredallingham 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Brown 01/Dec/13 Solo
with Solo
deacondeacon 10/Jul/13 Solo O/S
garethb 19/May/13 2nd
with cheque
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
crispycodd 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Nice but short, thought it was steady VS but not a lot of gear.

Dptidman 06/May/13 2nd O/S
cragtyke 20/Apr/13 Lead
with john g
notclive 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Ollie B 07/Oct/12 Solo O/S
with B.Brewer
Alex@home 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
Pilch 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Graham
Ben Wolstenholme ?/Jul/12 -
Steve J P 10/Jun/12 Lead

Would have been a bold first step onto slab, but I put a thread at foot level to stop a fall right down to the bottom of the gully. However, would have still hit a few rocks, so I then added a sling over bulge at head height - although this would have just fallen off as I made the move, so I used another sling to anchor it tight to the thread - worked a treat - nice protected first move. Bernie thought I was building a suspension bridge though.

with BW
Bernie Wylde 10/Jun/12 2nd
with sp
tsjx 18/Mar/12 2nd
with John Mc, Bruce
adie84 ??/2012 -
akhughes 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
iccy 05/Jun/11 -
Hidden 11/May/11 Solo O/S
phil.cheeseman 25/Apr/11 Lead
with Jonny Cox
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Bradbury 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Luke Evans
Oliver Houston 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Ky 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Crucko
Steven Andrews 30/May/10 Lead O/S

Pretty tough finnishing moves but a lovely feel too it. I think worthy of more than one star.

Graeme Hammond 23/May/10 Solo O/S

nice

Col Kingshott 18/May/10 -
stephenhartley ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
stukent 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Tristan Sharpe, Fiona Scott
Hidden 20/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/09 -
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Milne 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S

no way vs 4c, scary swing on, hard reachy move, practically unprotected, potential long ground fall, more tough moves over small roof with gear below feet. climbed easier E1's recently!

Hidden ?/Jun/09 2nd
adam carless 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S

initial step off the block is the most worrying bit - tie your belayer down.

with Jon_nz
metal arms 29/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Tomprusk 06/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Adam1973 01/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Alex
Adam1973 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with jonka
jonka ?/Oct/08 2nd
with adam
john lynch 27/Sep/08 2nd
with Lewis Andrew
rayash 21/Jul/08 2nd

more like 5a

with greg
Jimbo C 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

A touch bold, rubbish gear for the tough move below the crux with 30ft drop beneath.

simonw1 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Allan Watson
Allan Watson 03/May/08 2nd
with Simon Whitehead
dsh 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Laura Cain
adrianj 17/Feb/08 Lead
Hidden 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S
MeMeMe 21/Oct/07 2nd
with Nick
thetourist 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Almost climbed Margery Daw by mistake but started to think that the next move I had to make was a little hard for a VS 4c!

with Matt Clifford
edmitchell 22/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with steven elson
HimTiggins 26/May/07 2nd O/S
with Neil and Mark
Jim Vach 20/May/07 Solo O/S
mje1398 20/May/07 Lead dnf
with John M
mje1398 20/May/07 2nd
with John M
Hidden 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/07 2nd
Bob M 21/Mar/07 2nd
Stig 30/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
rob wmc 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Pete & Steve
Hidden 10/Jun/06 2nd
Tom M Williams 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Andy Hobson
Hidden 04/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 24/Sep/05 Lead
SMc 15/May/05 -
with Anne
PenJD 07/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Louise Kiernan
Hidden 18/Oct/03 2nd O/S
dicky79 ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Blod 11/Oct/02 Lead rpt
with Ronnie
DerwentDiluted 06/Jun/02 Lead
with A. Murray
Ben Bransby 11/Apr/02 -
RussB 03/Apr/02 2nd O/S
with Alex H
Strong Steve 23/Feb/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Rock Fairy ??/2000 Solo

Sandbagged!!

Roget 28/Jun/98 Solo O/S
with jon
roncaves 01/Jun/98 Lead
with Gavin Williams
Iain Thow 09/Oct/96 2nd
with Dave Walch
Rog Wilko ?/Oct/96 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 21/May/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead
bobboulderer ?/Nov/94 Lead O/S
with Chris Jackson Jones
Chris Ellis 18/Sep/94 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
Chris Ellis 13/Sep/94 2nd
with Rachel Nicolson
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
JiveWeasel ?/Oct/93 2nd
Hidden 10/May/92 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/91 Lead
Martin Bennett 24/Mar/91 -
with Jerry Evans, MT
goi.ashmore 25/Apr/90 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/90 Solo
Andy Say 03/Oct/89 Solo
babymoac 15/May/88 -
with MTW
Dave Musgrove 03/Jan/87 Solo
Hidden ?/Jun/86 Lead
John Marsland 27/Oct/85 2nd
with Dave Cousins
tapley 31/Jul/83 Lead
with David Bacon
Rob Davies 16/May/81 Lead
with Mike Papworth
Hidden 29/Mar/78 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/78 2nd
mikej 08/Sep/69 Lead
with E
mikej 15/Oct/67 Lead
with Ian Clayton
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 31
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set