Rockfax Description
The curving fissure that bounds the left side of the buttress is novel. The start is awkward but the wide leaning section provides the crux (not much gear) and is best tackled on your back! Reckoned to be harder than Billiard Buttress by some! © Rockfax

Ticklists: Stanage: My Favourite Five, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

P Rogers 12/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Sue, matty
Hidden 25/Oct/17 Solo O/S
lukevf 04/Sep/17 Lead dnf

Prime grimstone conditions made for an excellent slimy battle up the first bit of chimney -- well worth the collateral damage of a shredded shirt. Where the crack turns left I went right and found myself on a ledge facing damp slab with my last gear at my feet. Having had my fun I rolled a fag and awaited rescue.

Ben Bransby 10/Aug/17 Solo
Tommackie 08/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Hard and unprotected

RussLuckhurst 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 26/May/17 Solo O/S

Wow, interesting squeeze. Thrutched up pretty high, only to realise to the outside of the sloping chimney was not fun at all. Tried to squeeze in leftwards, but too fat, so ended up having to down-thrutch a meter where it was wider.

vinni 22/Apr/17 Lead O/S
bleddynmawr ??/2017 -
Stozza92 15/Oct/16 Lead
with Julia Hoerner
Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
soph 30/Sep/16 Solo rpt
with Tom Le Fanu
jimmysdead 23/Sep/16 Lead
mapperley samurai 23/Sep/16 2nd
Markheighton 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
emgroves 29/Jun/16 2nd
caradoc 28/May/16 Lead O/S

No way in hell is this severe! Awkward and poorly protected and I lead HVS/E1 so I know what I'm talking about.

with Matt H.
Andy Moles 13/May/16 Solo
Withey3 22/Apr/16 Solo O/S
DeanD 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/16 2nd
Oliver-Lambourn08 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with CJC
mattb42 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Clive
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Theo Mossop ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
SimonOliver 28/Jun/15 2nd
with Dan S
Hidden 28/Jun/15 2nd
RKirke 25/May/15 Solo O/S

A really enjoyable climb, the struggle just made it better.

with Banksy
Derek Furze 23/May/15 2nd
with Paul Mitchell
AmyG 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S


with Chris Ravey
khalidq 25/Apr/15 Lead dog

Fell off at beginning onto block below. Quite hurt.

with Andy Evans (NLMC new member)
gazj1986 23/Apr/15 Lead
Flavio 06/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 2nd
John Higgs 08/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Caitlin Bell
Marcin78 ?/Mar/15 Lead
with Karol
Mike505 ??/2015 Solo O/S
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead rpt
lee1234 06/Dec/14 2nd O/S
charley 01/Jun/14 Solo O/S

Fantastic climb, missed out lying on my back though? Faced left the whole way up. Start was fine and the rest was good, old fashioned climbing - right leg jammed in, chicken-wing with my right arm, weight on my left foot with toe & heel jams on the front edge and left hand palming off. Got harder slightly closer to the top where it got too wide to heel & toe jam. Pretty much walked up the curving section at the top using layback/undercut moves. Will have to try it facing the other way next time...

LJC 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Little Ben
LovelyMrTom 18/May/14 Lead O/S

A real struggle that is only fun in hindsight! Beat both of my seconds, had to ab to clean.

Ejminee 18/May/14 2nd
admackie 28/Apr/14 -
sgl 27/Apr/14 Lead
with Jonathan
JEP 27/Apr/14 2nd
funsized 10/Apr/14 Solo dnf

Full Offwidth tactics with boots and wooly jumper. Couldn't repeat the glory of the day before. Had to slide down in shame.

funsized 09/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Nick1812P 29/Mar/14 Solo O/S
with Jamie
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 23/Nov/13 2nd β
Hidden 23/Nov/13 Solo
MYox 23/Nov/13 Lead

Horror show.

with Maia
AndyPagett 23/Nov/13 TR O/S

Absolutely horrific. But good fun. Made light work of it after Maia and Mark faffed for eternity.

DanielGyi 08/Sep/13 Solo O/S
Mario Grabinski 18/Aug/13 Lead
with Ronnie Jones
Jonny M 27/Jul/13 TR O/S
with Ali Pearson
Eagertom 26/Jun/13 Solo O/S

The climb doesn't make the cut in Eastern Grit, so I had no idea of the grade. It was a push getting my whole body into the crack, but once I managed it I felt like I coped quite gracefully, which is rare for such off width grunging.

HVSJames 16/Jun/13 2nd
Matt Marsh 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
bobpilgrem 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Dennis
jwhereat 04/May/13 2nd O/S
hoshea 01/May/13 Lead rpt

Very little in terms of protection placing making this climb a risky lead with only 1 peace of strong protection 2/3rds up.

with Ben Anderson
Paul Hy 21/Feb/13 2nd β
with Deacon
deacondeacon 21/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Great fun, would have been better as a solo as the only gear is about 1/3 up the initial chimney (unless you have some monster cams).

HVSJames ??/2013 2nd O/S

I hate crack!!

zephr 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

An extremely enjoyable climb for those who extremely enjoy off widths. I loved getting stuck in and squirming up. Fantastic finish under the hollybush too. Tom called this climb perverted. Nobody would follow me up so had to ab back down for gear. This is also the exit to a nice little cave scamper which starts round the other side of te buttress.

Heather651 11/Aug/12 2nd
tomshanti 18/May/12 Solo O/S

just looking,wriggled up and yes,crux on my back!

Simon Allcock 24/Mar/12 Lead
mark schramm 24/Mar/12 2nd
with si
Simon Allcock ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 30/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Solo
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Solo O/S
pie_eater_pete 23/Sep/11 Solo O/S
lozowen 09/Sep/11 Solo
akhughes ?/Sep/11 -
Robbo1 ?/Sep/11 Lead
Happy Haggis ?/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
philboy 28/Jul/11 Lead
with bisanth
Liam Ingram 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Easier to make progress on the arete and rest in the chimney rather than thrutching all the way.

Hidden 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Brown 29/Jan/11 Solo O/S
with Solo
PAJames ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/10 Lead
stevelismore 17/Aug/10 2nd
with James L
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Andrew Barker 29/Jul/10 Solo O/S

Fun times.

Graeme Hammond 23/May/10 Solo O/S

spun round and exited on my front, good traditional fun, no hands no feet rest at one point truly wedged in!

climbingVet ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
peter myers ?/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Solo O/S
Danny Crump 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Delarre
Bernie Wylde 05/Jul/09 Lead
Steve J P 05/Jul/09 2nd
with BW
rob wmc 25/May/09 TR O/S
with Petar & Alan
Hidden 25/May/09 TR O/S
Hardcore Howlett 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Vanessa Buth
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Sarah Bough 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Dan Burbridge
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 27/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 -
popebenedictus 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Comedy grovelling. Colin followed as well

Hidden 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S

I feel I missed out all the fun. I faced left and walked up the slab at the top instead of offwidthing. I feel a bit dirty :o

with Lizzie
scrat ?/Aug/08 2nd
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/08 2nd O/S
alek 31/May/08 Lead O/S
Alkis 15/Apr/08 TR O/S
Bradbury 15/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Little gear, wedge yourself in

Jeronimo 15/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Really good route! Very awkward, with a very interesting body jam on your back (although Andy did it on his front somehow). The words 'beached' and 'whale' spring to mind. Would like to lead it next.

with Andy Winters
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
feilx 21/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Dan Leach 03/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Ian Atkins
Hidden 02/Jun/07 Solo rpt
climbingpixie 02/Jun/07 Solo

Hilarious. For best effect solo it with loads of people around so they can laugh as you squirm up the top slab on your back, half in the crack and half hanging out.

Hidden 03/May/07 2nd
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden ??/2007 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 06/Aug/06 Solo O/S
robgilchrist ?/May/06 -
JuneBob 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S

My first ever climb at Stanage, thought I'd do a nice easy VDiff to warm up - How wrong I was.... ('96 Stanage Guide)

with Alison
Pete Graham ??/2006 Solo
Nicos 12/Dec/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden ?/Dec/05 Solo
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/05 Solo O/S
WRMusall 24/Sep/05 2nd
with Charlie G
Si dH 14/Sep/05 2nd O/S


with Tom Lambert
SecretSquirrel ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Tough route, happy to be seconding!

with Ben
Rampikino 23/Apr/05 Lead
with Rob Wilson & Blond Mark
SteveM 10/Apr/05 2nd
with Keith
Tobias at Home ??/2005 -
Hidden 05/Sep/04 2nd
adam carless ??/2004 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Dec/03 2nd
GPN ?/Nov/03 Lead
with Andy Warner
scarybiker ?/Jun/03 2nd


DerwentDiluted 29/Jun/02 Solo
Dave Toseland ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2002 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 -
Hidden 19/Aug/00 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/00 Solo
Katie Weston ?/Jul/00 2nd
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ?/May/99 Solo O/S
rocktigger ??/1999 Lead O/S

After watching a lass (Havin been told it would be a nice first S lead) fail to get two moves off the ground it just had to done. I think any other S on the whole of Stanage would have been easier!

with Clare
Paul-Michael 26/Sep/98 2nd O/S
with David Jupp
nigehughes ?/Sep/98 Lead
with Richie Fowlis
Strong Steve 16/Aug/98 Lead O/S
DavidEvans ?/May/98 Solo
with Tim Stallard
craig h ?/Mar/98 Solo rpt
craig h 18/Nov/95 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Nov/95 Solo
rurp ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
roncaves 11/May/94 Solo
atom 26/Sep/93 2nd
with Sheila Ellison
Iain Thow 07/May/91 Solo
Andy Say 01/Oct/89 Lead
Hidden 03/May/89 Solo
tapley 22/Jun/88 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
conradallen ??/1988 -
johnny20whales 06/Jul/85 Solo
GordonHart ??/1985 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove 18/Apr/76 Solo
with Tim Leach, Dennis Gray
Hidden 20/Dec/75 Lead
mikej 23/Feb/74 Solo
Dave Musgrove 10/Oct/71 Lead
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