18m.

Rockfax Description
The curving fissure that bounds the left side of the buttress is novel. The start is awkward but the wide leaning section provides the crux (not much gear) and is best tackled on your back! Reckoned to be harder than Billiard Buttress by some! © Rockfax

Ticklists

Stanage: My Favourite Five, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage for Crack Apprentices

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UserDateNotes
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Puzzling, but the absurd crawling bit is a giggle, as the earlier comment says.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Puzzling, but the absurd crawling bit is a giggle, as the earlier comment says.
Si dH 15 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: ying dow nis definitely not the way to do it IMO, I nearly fell out seconding it! Would have been much easier just to stand up and walk up the slab, but I wanted to practice some "treaditional" techniques - notably humping the rock and grunting and laughing and slipping downwards all at once. Never vdiff, as James Mcn says, bold for the first 5-6 metres.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ying dow nis definitely not the way to do it IMO, I nearly fell out seconding it! Would have been much easier just to stand up and walk up the slab, but I wanted to practice some "treaditional" techniques - notably humping the rock and grunting and laughing and slipping downwards all at once. Never vdiff, as James Mcn says, bold for the first 5-6 metres.
Nick Smith - Climbers 16 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A must do route if you like that sort of thing (and most people don't!) Only given VDiff in previous guides - I wouldn't have solo'd it if it had been down as HS 4c!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A must do route if you like that sort of thing (and most people don't!) Only given VDiff in previous guides - I wouldn't have solo'd it if it had been down as HS 4c!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tasha 21 Jul Lead dnf Couldn't fit in the bl**dy crack as my bottom was too big, so tried climbing it on the outside. Fell & my cam popped. Never again.
Couldn't fit in the bl**dy crack as my bottom was too big, so tried climbing it on the outside. Fell & my cam popped. Never again.
Vlad Pepper 21 Jul Lead
chris cockbain 30 Jun Solo O/S
slab_happy 16 May Lead β Fabulous. Turned round and did the undercut/layback at the top, having seen mention of it here; it's fun.
with Charlotte
Fabulous. Turned round and did the undercut/layback at the top, having seen mention of it here; it's fun.
with Charlotte
Charlotte Whitmore 16 May 2nd Size 8 cam just too sml
Size 8 cam just too sml
Hidden 14 May Lead rpt
GFidz 6 Apr 2nd
with wjvt
with wjvt
wjvt 6 Apr Lead O/S
with GFidz
with GFidz
Hidden 31 Mar 2nd
Hidden 29 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
Flynn_Simpson 29 Sep, 2018 2nd
Daniel Armitage 24 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S An experience!
with Graham Armitage
An experience!
with Graham Armitage
devious wally 6 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Good old thrutching, not too difficult but very entertaining. (would be worth 3* in the chew ;-))
Good old thrutching, not too difficult but very entertaining. (would be worth 3* in the chew ;-))
mrphilipoldham 6 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S I read in the comments of shredded tshirts and absolute battles. It should be neither, if you’re any good. Great fun, and perfect chicken wings all the way up, complemented with the occasional pocket or hold.
I read in the comments of shredded tshirts and absolute battles. It should be neither, if you’re any good. Great fun, and perfect chicken wings all the way up, complemented with the occasional pocket or hold.
Karlos 18 Aug, 2018 Solo O/S Don't bother. Horrible climb, drag all of the way, no finesse.
Don't bother. Horrible climb, drag all of the way, no finesse.
duncangcampbell 18 Aug, 2018 2nd
Rhys.Roberts 18 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
joegrainger 18 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Karlos
with Karlos
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 Lead
P Rogers 12 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Oct, 2017 Solo O/S
lukevf 4 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf Prime grimstone conditions made for an excellent slimy battle up the first bit of chimney -- well worth the collateral damage of a shredded shirt. Where the crack turns left I went right and found myself on a ledge facing damp slab with my last gear at my feet. Having had my fun I rolled a fag and awaited rescue.
Prime grimstone conditions made for an excellent slimy battle up the first bit of chimney -- well worth the collateral damage of a shredded shirt. Where the crack turns left I went right and found myself on a ledge facing damp slab with my last gear at my feet. Having had my fun I rolled a fag and awaited rescue.
Ben Bransby 10 Aug, 2017 Solo
Tommackie 8 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S Hard and unprotected
Hard and unprotected
RussLuckhurst 8 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Geogirl 2 Jul, 2017 2nd
JoeCoxson 26 May, 2017 Solo O/S Wow, interesting squeeze. Thrutched up pretty high, only to realise to the outside of the sloping chimney was not fun at all. Tried to squeeze in leftwards, but too fat, so ended up having to down-thrutch a meter where it was wider.
Wow, interesting squeeze. Thrutched up pretty high, only to realise to the outside of the sloping chimney was not fun at all. Tried to squeeze in leftwards, but too fat, so ended up having to down-thrutch a meter where it was wider.
Hidden 24 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
vinni 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
bleddynmawr ??, 2017 -
Stozza92 15 Oct, 2016 Lead
with Julia Hoerner
with Julia Hoerner
Hidden 9 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
soph 30 Sep, 2016 Solo rpt
with Tom Le Fanu
with Tom Le Fanu
jimmysdead 23 Sep, 2016 Lead
mapperley samurai 23 Sep, 2016 2nd
Markheighton 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
emgroves 29 Jun, 2016 2nd
caradoc 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S No way in hell is this severe! Awkward and poorly protected.
with Matt H.
No way in hell is this severe! Awkward and poorly protected.
with Matt H.
Andy Moles 13 May, 2016 Solo
Withey3 22 Apr, 2016 Solo O/S
DeanD 20 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2016 2nd
Oliver-Lambourn08 10 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with CJC
with CJC
mattb42 11 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with mr_cf
with mr_cf
Hidden 11 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Tom Last 24 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Good stuff. Easy. High stepping the slab at the top.
Good stuff. Easy. High stepping the slab at the top.
Theo Mossop ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Jun, 2015 2nd
Hidden 28 Jun, 2015 2nd
RKirke 25 May, 2015 Solo O/S A really enjoyable climb, the struggle just made it better.
A really enjoyable climb, the struggle just made it better.
Derek Furze 23 May, 2015 2nd
with Paul Mitchell
with Paul Mitchell
AmyG 25 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Awkward!
with Chris Ravey
Awkward!
with Chris Ravey
khalidq 25 Apr, 2015 Lead dog Fell off at beginning onto block below. Quite hurt.
with Andy Evans (NLMC new member)
Fell off at beginning onto block below. Quite hurt.
with Andy Evans (NLMC new member)
gazj1986 23 Apr, 2015 Lead
Flavio 6 Apr, 2015 Solo O/S
Hidden 22 Mar, 2015 2nd
John Higgs 8 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with Caitlin Bell
with Caitlin Bell
Marcin78 ?Mar, 2015 Lead
with Karol
with Karol
Mike505 ??, 2015 Solo O/S
dan_o_b ??, 2015 Lead O/S
neilmackie 6 Dec, 2014 Lead rpt
with lee1234
with lee1234
lee1234 6 Dec, 2014 2nd O/S
charley 1 Jun, 2014 Solo O/S Fantastic climb, missed out lying on my back though? Faced left the whole way up. Start was fine and the rest was good, old fashioned climbing - right leg jammed in, chicken-wing with my right arm, weight on my left foot with toe & heel jams on the front edge and left hand palming off. Got harder slightly closer to the top where it got too wide to heel & toe jam. Pretty much walked up the curving section at the top using layback/undercut moves. Will have to try it facing the other way next time...
Fantastic climb, missed out lying on my back though? Faced left the whole way up. Start was fine and the rest was good, old fashioned climbing - right leg jammed in, chicken-wing with my right arm, weight on my left foot with toe & heel jams on the front edge and left hand palming off. Got harder slightly closer to the top where it got too wide to heel & toe jam. Pretty much walked up the curving section at the top using layback/undercut moves. Will have to try it facing the other way next time...
LucaC 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with Little Ben
with Little Ben
LovelyMrTom 18 May, 2014 Lead O/S A real struggle that is only fun in hindsight! Beat both of my seconds, had to ab to clean.
with Ejminee
A real struggle that is only fun in hindsight! Beat both of my seconds, had to ab to clean.
with Ejminee
Ejminee 18 May, 2014 2nd
admackie 28 Apr, 2014 -
sgl 27 Apr, 2014 Lead
with Jonathan
with Jonathan
JEP 27 Apr, 2014 2nd
funsized 10 Apr, 2014 Solo dnf Full Offwidth tactics with boots and wooly jumper. Couldn't repeat the glory of the day before. Had to slide down in shame.
Full Offwidth tactics with boots and wooly jumper. Couldn't repeat the glory of the day before. Had to slide down in shame.
funsized 9 Apr, 2014 Solo O/S
Nick1812P 29 Mar, 2014 Solo O/S
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
Maia 23 Nov, 2013 2nd β tried to lead and jumped down as was turned wrong way- second time around was alright but definitely type 2 fun!
tried to lead and jumped down as was turned wrong way- second time around was alright but definitely type 2 fun!
jlismore 23 Nov, 2013 Solo
MYox 23 Nov, 2013 Lead Horror show.
with Maia
Horror show.
with Maia
AndyPagett 23 Nov, 2013 TR O/S Absolutely horrific. But good fun. Made light work of it after Maia and Mark faffed for eternity.
with MYox, Maia
Absolutely horrific. But good fun. Made light work of it after Maia and Mark faffed for eternity.
with MYox, Maia
DanielGyi 8 Sep, 2013 Solo O/S
Mario Grabinski 18 Aug, 2013 Lead
with Ronnie Jones
with Ronnie Jones
Jonny M 27 Jul, 2013 TR O/S
with Ali Pearson
with Ali Pearson
Eagertom 26 Jun, 2013 Solo O/S The climb doesn't make the cut in Eastern Grit, so I had no idea of the grade. It was a push getting my whole body into the crack, but once I managed it I felt like I coped quite gracefully, which is rare for such off width grunging.
The climb doesn't make the cut in Eastern Grit, so I had no idea of the grade. It was a push getting my whole body into the crack, but once I managed it I felt like I coped quite gracefully, which is rare for such off width grunging.
HVSJames 16 Jun, 2013 2nd
Matt Marsh 16 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
bobpilgrem 2 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with Dennis
with Dennis
jwhereat 4 May, 2013 2nd O/S
hoshea 1 May, 2013 Lead rpt Very little in terms of protection placing making this climb a risky lead with only 1 peace of strong protection 2/3rds up.
with Ben Anderson
Very little in terms of protection placing making this climb a risky lead with only 1 peace of strong protection 2/3rds up.
with Ben Anderson
Paul Hy 21 Feb, 2013 2nd β
deacondeacon 21 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S Great fun, would have been better as a solo as the only gear is about 1/3 up the initial chimney (unless you have some monster cams).
Great fun, would have been better as a solo as the only gear is about 1/3 up the initial chimney (unless you have some monster cams).
HVSJames ??, 2013 2nd O/S I hate crack!!
I hate crack!!
zephr 4 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Heather651 11 Aug, 2012 2nd
tomshanti 18 May, 2012 Solo O/S just looking,wriggled up and yes,crux on my back!
just looking,wriggled up and yes,crux on my back!
Simon Allcock 24 Mar, 2012 Lead
Hidden 24 Mar, 2012 2nd
Simon Allcock ??, 2012 Lead O/S
with Mark
with Mark
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 30 Oct, 2011 Lead
Hidden 22 Oct, 2011 Solo
Hidden 15 Oct, 2011 Solo O/S
Hidden 15 Oct, 2011 Solo O/S
pie_eater_pete 23 Sep, 2011 Solo O/S
lozowen 9 Sep, 2011 Solo
akhughes ?Sep, 2011 -
Robbo1 ?Sep, 2011 Lead
Happy Haggis ?Sep, 2011 2nd
with Robbo1
with Robbo1
Hidden 14 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
philboy 28 Jul, 2011 Lead
with bisanth
with bisanth
Liam Ingram 13 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S Easier to make progress on the arete and rest in the chimney rather than thrutching all the way.
Easier to make progress on the arete and rest in the chimney rather than thrutching all the way.
Hidden 13 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Brown 29 Jan, 2011 Solo O/S
with Solo
with Solo
PAJames ??, 2011 -
uphillnow ??, 2011 -
walts4 ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden 7 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
jlismore 17 Aug, 2010 Lead
stevelismore 17 Aug, 2010 2nd
Hidden 16 Aug, 2010 Solo O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 Solo O/S
Andrew Barker 29 Jul, 2010 Solo O/S Fun times.
Fun times.
Graeme Hammond 23 May, 2010 Solo O/S spun round and exited on my front, good traditional fun, no hands no feet rest at one point truly wedged in!
spun round and exited on my front, good traditional fun, no hands no feet rest at one point truly wedged in!
climbingVet ?May, 2010 AltLd O/S
peter myers ?Apr, 2010 2nd
Hidden ??, 2010 Solo O/S
Danny Crump 20 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dave Delarre
with Dave Delarre
Bernie Wylde 5 Jul, 2009 Lead
Steve J P 5 Jul, 2009 2nd
rob wmc 25 May, 2009 TR O/S
with Petar & Alan
with Petar & Alan
Hidden 25 May, 2009 TR O/S
Hardcore Howlett 23 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Vanessa Buth
with Vanessa Buth
Hidden 25 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
Sarah Bough 14 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dan Burbridge
with Dan Burbridge
keith leonard ??, 2009 -
Hidden 18 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 27 Sep, 2008 Solo O/S
Hidden 23 Aug, 2008 -
popebenedictus 15 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S Comedy grovelling. Colin followed as well
with Flicka
Comedy grovelling. Colin followed as well
with Flicka
Hidden 15 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 15 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S I feel I missed out all the fun. I faced left and walked up the slab at the top instead of offwidthing. I feel a bit dirty :o
with Flicka
I feel I missed out all the fun. I faced left and walked up the slab at the top instead of offwidthing. I feel a bit dirty :o
with Flicka
scrat ?Aug, 2008 2nd
feilx 11 Jun, 2008 Solo O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2008 2nd O/S
neilmackie 31 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with alek
with alek
alek 31 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Alkis 15 Apr, 2008 TR O/S
Bradbury 15 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S Little gear, wedge yourself in
with JHM
Little gear, wedge yourself in
with JHM
JHM 15 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S Really good route! Very awkward, with a very interesting body jam on your back (although Andy did it on his front somehow). The words 'beached' and 'whale' spring to mind. Would like to lead it next.
with Andy Winters
Really good route! Very awkward, with a very interesting body jam on your back (although Andy did it on his front somehow). The words 'beached' and 'whale' spring to mind. Would like to lead it next.
with Andy Winters
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 -
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
Neil McA 4 Nov, 2007 Solo O/S
feilx 21 Oct, 2007 Solo O/S
Hidden 22 Sep, 2007 2nd O/S
Dan Leach 3 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
with Ian Atkins
with Ian Atkins
Hidden 2 Jun, 2007 Solo rpt
climbingpixie 2 Jun, 2007 Solo Hilarious. For best effect solo it with loads of people around so they can laugh as you squirm up the top slab on your back, half in the crack and half hanging out.
Hilarious. For best effect solo it with loads of people around so they can laugh as you squirm up the top slab on your back, half in the crack and half hanging out.
Hidden 3 May, 2007 2nd
craig matheson ?Apr, 2007 Solo
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 6 Aug, 2006 Solo O/S
robgilchrist ?May, 2006 -
JuneBob 30 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S My first ever climb at Stanage, thought I'd do a nice easy VDiff to warm up - How wrong I was.... ('96 Stanage Guide)
with Alison
My first ever climb at Stanage, thought I'd do a nice easy VDiff to warm up - How wrong I was.... ('96 Stanage Guide)
with Alison
Pete Graham ??, 2006 Solo
Hidden ?Dec, 2005 Solo
dannyboy83 ?Oct, 2005 Solo O/S
WRMusall 24 Sep, 2005 2nd
with Charlie G
with Charlie G
Si dH 14 Sep, 2005 2nd O/S Amusing!
with Tom Lambert
Amusing!
with Tom Lambert
SecretSquirrel ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S Tough route, happy to be seconding!
with Ben
Tough route, happy to be seconding!
with Ben
Rampikino 23 Apr, 2005 Lead
with Rob Wilson & Blond Mark
with Rob Wilson & Blond Mark
SteveM 10 Apr, 2005 2nd
with Keith
with Keith
Tobias at Home ??, 2005 -
Hidden 5 Sep, 2004 2nd
adam carless ??, 2004 Solo O/S
Hidden 6 Dec, 2003 2nd
GPN ?Nov, 2003 Lead
with Andy Warner
with Andy Warner
scarybiker ?Jun, 2003 2nd horrible
horrible
DerwentDiluted 29 Jun, 2002 Solo
Dave Toseland ??, 2002 -
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Jon Greengrass ??, 2002 -
Hidden 19 Aug, 2000 Solo O/S
Hidden 19 Aug, 2000 Solo
Katie Weston ?Jul, 2000 2nd
Rock Fairy ??, 2000 2nd
Hidden ?May, 1999 Solo O/S
rocktigger ??, 1999 Lead O/S After watching a lass (Havin been told it would be a nice first S lead) fail to get two moves off the ground it just had to done. I think any other S on the whole of Stanage would have been easier!
with Clare
After watching a lass (Havin been told it would be a nice first S lead) fail to get two moves off the ground it just had to done. I think any other S on the whole of Stanage would have been easier!
with Clare
Paul-Michael 26 Sep, 1998 2nd O/S
with David Jupp
with David Jupp
nigehughes ?Sep, 1998 Lead
with Richie Fowlis
with Richie Fowlis
Strong Steve 16 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
DavidEvans ?May, 1998 Solo
with Tim Stallard
with Tim Stallard
craig h ?Mar, 1998 Solo rpt
craig h 18 Nov, 1995 Solo O/S
Hidden 5 Nov, 1995 Solo
rurp ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
roncaves 11 May, 1994 Solo
Kilda 26 Sep, 1993 Lead
with atom
with atom
atom 26 Sep, 1993 2nd
with Kilda
with Kilda
Iain Thow 7 May, 1991 Solo
Andy Say 1 Oct, 1989 Lead
Hidden 3 May, 1989 Solo
tapley 22 Jun, 1988 -
BRUCESTRAC ??, 1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
with Chris Cracknell,Various
conradallen ??, 1988 -
johnny20whales 6 Jul, 1985 Solo
GordonHart ??, 1985 Solo O/S
DonnyDave 20 Jun, 1982 TR
Dave Musgrove 18 Apr, 1976 Solo
with Tim Leach, Dennis Gray
with Tim Leach, Dennis Gray
Hidden 20 Dec, 1975 Lead
mikej 23 Feb, 1974 Solo
Dave Musgrove 10 Oct, 1971 Lead
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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 29
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set