Rockfax Description
The right arete of the wall has runners just below the crux, but that is a fair way off the ground. Finish as for The Right Unconquerable. Low in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Ernie Marshall 1981

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Days of the Week.

Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Oct/16 -

Nice route. Rained off before we could do anything else.

with Viv, Rich Lindsay
thetradlad 08/Oct/16 2nd O/S
andork123 08/Oct/16 2nd dog

was ok on the E2 part, fell, and had quite the epic on the HVS top out lol

Mark D 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
charley 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Alex
Gambit 06/Oct/16 2nd rpt
The old James turnbull 03/Oct/16 -
Rory_Cummings_NI 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Charlie
charliepickering 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Stroppy 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
BarnDawg 30/Jul/16 2nd
with Ivan
Hidden 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 22/May/16 Lead

Quite bold to the upper break. Escapeable to the right. Finish is good but you do have to force yourself a bit left. Belly flop finish make the Right Unconquerable version feel easy.

with Rhiannon Williams, Amy Lipschultz
HimTiggins 10/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with Jon
Ross88 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Pete Dollman
Hidden 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 03/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Maia
Mr. K 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
James Oswald 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Really good

Andy Moles 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 02/Apr/16 2nd
with Andy
Alkis 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Fraser hill-casey 28/Feb/16 2nd rpt
with Alkis
Quarryboy 28/Feb/16 2nd O/S

having not climbed outdoors in quite a while felt pretty difficult

scarmichael 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Delicate but enjoyable moves, temperature was a but warm for a November day!

with Steve Wooton
dom94 08/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Matt Groom 08/Oct/15 Lead
Gambit 08/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Thought the top was quite insecure

Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis 25/Sep/15 2nd O/S


with James Hall, Tom Holdsworth
phillipwright 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Fun route, delicate

FlavioL1989 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Jamie Everitt 11/Jul/15 Lead dog

Silly mistake.

rajeshwarbisht 11/Jul/15 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead
Nick_Merriman 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Fraser hill-casey 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
evenL 06/Jun/15 2nd
FredTB 30/May/15 2nd β
with Alistair Corbett
Alistair Corbett 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Dom
climbomaniac 02/May/15 Lead O/S
Matt Shepherd 25/Mar/15 TR O/S
James S 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with geoff
Fraser hill-casey 28/Feb/15 Lead O/S
MFB 29/Oct/14 2nd
with MB
Colin Scotchford 12/Oct/14 Lead
Alex Hallam 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Bit scary but glad Ben egged me on, also glad I won that tri cam in a christmas cracker.

with Ben Corbey
bencole ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 03/Jul/14 2nd O/S
mrteale 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with MrBlond
craigycraigo 13/Jun/14 Lead RP
bendevonport 08/Jun/14 2nd
jshields 08/Jun/14 Lead
DavidR 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
bigdrew 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Dunc Frish, Ian Milward
Gudge 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nice moves but bold in lower section - thankfully good gear for crux!

with Helen B
helin 06/Jun/14 2nd
with chris
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd
kp64zl ?/May/14 2nd
with Julian M
ashtond6 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S

felt v bold as didn't have a cam smaller than a 1.0, hardest moves well protected

stuart90 17/Apr/14 -
tprebs 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Conor Cadden
RKernan 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Lisa Davison
ldavison440 16/Apr/14 2nd
WillDoyle 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
cjcuni ?/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Ewano 15/Mar/14 Lead

Would be pretty soft only it was gusting 40mph so felt pretty scary. Nearly got blown off several times.

rurp 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Bit broken by the ledges but nice climbing

with bill farmer
dominic lee 01/Mar/14 Solo
vanderz 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Smokey
jrobbings ??/2014 2nd
mikealexpayne 04/Dec/13 2nd
JamesTurnbull97 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Lower bolder section didn't seem that bad, found the hardest section after the first bomber friend 3 & 3.5 and then the top out belly flop. Bomber friend 1 & 1.5 in the first break. Alrightish friend 0.5 in the middle break.

iccy 10/Nov/13 Lead
with Jon Turner, Phil McFadden
DaveMo 06/Oct/13 2nd
with Joe Chambers, Jan
Paul Eckton 14/Sep/13 Lead β
with Joshua Leak
Fragmod 22/Aug/13 TR

I thought this was class and worth more than 1 star. Too chicken to do it on lead - very bold!

climberchristy 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

A nice route. Gear adequate in lower half and actually very good near the top. Realtively straighforward for E2?

with Keith Swainson
Paul Hy 02/Jul/13 2nd dog

the wind blew me off when reaching up for last but one break!!

with Jack C
saffy 02/Jul/13 Lead
with Paul Hy
amccann 31/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/13 -
Bertbee 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Tom Peeper 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S

blue/yellow Dragons in break

saffy ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
eel 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 15/Sep/12 TR
with Will Ward
Tamati 15/Sep/12 2nd
Mr Wild 09/Sep/12 2nd
martroberts 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Nice climbing but found it to be quite bold and top end 5b with crux near the top for me.

Hidden 04/Sep/12 2nd
mark20 04/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Sardien 06/Aug/12 2nd O/S

seems very bold to lead. well done andy! Hard move near the top

with Andy Scott
redjerry ?/Aug/12 2nd
Cake 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Gear is decent enough now at the narrow break above half height

nai 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
jwpil 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Deacon
deacondeacon 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
RM199 20/May/12 2nd dog
disturbed_one51 20/May/12 Lead
hailtryfan ?/May/12 2nd O/S
john lynch 16/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with adam harrison
Apharri 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Gina_2 29/Mar/12 2nd
mattorford 29/Mar/12 Lead
Goose4 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Ince, Paul Moore
Sean Kelly 24/Mar/12 2nd
with Mark Scramm, Dave Coley
Graeme Hammond 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Some good moves. Gear even worse than expected, other than the gear in the first break, i didn't trust or find any decent gear till the 2/3 height break!! Felt bold and scary today.

with Jim
Ceridwen 13/Mar/12 Lead β
with Tim Hobby
timmyhobby 13/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with ceri
Simon Allcock ??/2012 2nd O/S
with Mark
Tom Livingstone 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
stuaart 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Neil Redgrave
Andy Peak 1 31/Oct/11 Lead
pmurdy 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Jonny Reay
JRae 30/Oct/11 Lead

Nice route. Pretty soft for E2.

with Paul M
tebs 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Sam
Martin Davies 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Great route! Bold with good moves.

with Tom Smart
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd
ian d f 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
pearson9596 28/Sep/11 2nd O/S
AlexRenshaw 23/Sep/11 Lead
with Thomas Renshaw
owain86 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Chris
Climbster 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Found this easier than right unconquerable just not as well protected.

wi11 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Duncan
leon 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
alj 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with leon skeldon
Jim Slater 12/Jul/11 2nd O/S
max_chan 12/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with James PCC, Jim Slater
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 21/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with loundsy
geddicakes 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
JBO 21/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/May/11 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 18/May/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
thomasadixon 08/May/11 2nd O/S

Thought the crux was the top...but didn't realise you were supposed to go up RU. Not bad route, terrible gear, defo E2.

with Mike
masa-alpin 03/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Doug belayed Mike but did not second.

with Mike (Birmingham), Doug S
steve_yo 23/Mar/11 2nd
with smacks
Jonas Paulsson 03/Mar/11 2nd

ok route

with Robin Dahlberg
Chi Cheng ??/2011 2nd O/S

Thought i was going to come off a few time even when i was seconding.

uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
DeanD ??/2011 -
DeanD ??/2011 -
john lynch 23/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Neil Elmore, Lewis Andrew
Brannock 13/Nov/10 2nd O/S

Awsome route, deffinatly going to go back and lead it some day

hamish2016 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with John Brannock
Tony Holdsworth 13/Oct/10 2nd O/S

bold and gear not easy to place well

with Peter Harris
nathanlee 02/Oct/10 Solo O/S
with Dom Lee
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/10 Lead
Misha 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

This would be a two star route if it wasn't so eliminate as at several points you can step round onto much easier ground on the arete or grab hold of a really good hold. The definitive guide says you should stay away from the right side of the arte but I think this just means you shouldn't be climbing to the right of it but can use the arete itself, as otherwise it certainly won't be 5b. Some good moves and the gear is ok though spaced. Was quite windy, which added to the excitement. Quality belly flop landing, hand to pull Su up the last bit by hand as she got stuck!

with Su
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd
highrepute 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/10 -
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dogmusher 22/Aug/10 Lead
with Marc Weisner
pebbles 22/Aug/10 2nd

pro much worse than it appears from below! two of the the useful looking breaks in the top half are too shallow for meaningful gear

with fireman ian, guido
Richard Gilbert 21/Aug/10 2nd dog

Fun route - on second! One fall - amusing barndoor

with Haydn Gaukroger
haydng 21/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Dave Foster 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt

One fall early on. Lowered and started again. Stepped round right to ledge at half height to gather myself and pressed off Right Unconquerable crack near the top. Still felt necky and not low in the grade to me!

with Andy
chris sm 24/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Jul/10 2nd
jacobjacob 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
mattcyp88 20/Jun/10 2nd
with Jacob Cook
Somerset swede basher 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Blain
Nick Taylor 28/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Wills
drcorbasisgod 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Dogmusher 09/May/10 2nd
with chris parson
nia ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd RP
Pown 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
tom.e 17/Apr/10 Lead β
with Dave
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
morganator 11/Apr/10 2nd
mark20 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
holters ??/2010 2nd
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
masonwoods101 ??/2010 Lead O/S

steady easy moves (spoiler alert) 0 size cam needed. e2?

Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
JulesV 09/Nov/09 Solo
Justin T 31/Oct/09 Lead

It's possible a hand may have strayed too far right at times if you're supposed to use purely the arete (which seems kind of eliminate) but still felt fairly exciting given the gear.

with Crispin
JKinsella 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Probably my best day trad climbing. Felt like I couldn't fall off. Not that I did anything hard. Given up trad climbing since!

Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd
Hidden 16/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Milne 16/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Lewis Grey
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd
mikeyjbs ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with john swan, adam spong, tony bowles, farrow, lachie, davina budd
barni 22/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Strong Jon
tigertim 12/Apr/09 2nd
with Tony Payne
Hidden 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
gnc760 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Neil Mackie
metal arms 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Harald 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
michaelja ?/Feb/09 2nd
benkelsey ?/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/08 Lead O/S
mattcyp88 08/Sep/08 Lead O/S
joe c ook ?/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Nate
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 17/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Matt Grodon
Dave Rumney 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Sean Roberts
riddle 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S

A fine route, i took a direct finish with an interesting mantle!

with Yasmina
Hidden 16/Aug/08 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Jul/08 Lead rpt
ksjs 14/Jul/08 Lead O/S

a touch artificial, serious but worthwhile

with mark
Joe Dove 13/Jul/08 2nd
IanJackson 30/Jun/08 Solo
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Dan 85 05/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with Nicos
Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
remus 25/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Bad choice of last route.

Owen W-G 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Easy for grade, but note one hard un-pro move just BEFORE the gear. If it wasn't so escapable, and it didn't nick the RU bellyflop finish, it might deserve another star.

with Robin
nacnud 06/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/07 Lead O/S
joe larner 27/Sep/07 Lead O/S

A little damp. Didn't like the gear at half height, but good route.

Richard Hall 07/Jul/07 -
with Sam Kendrick
Hidden 22/May/07 2nd
Hidden 21/May/07 Lead rpt
adam carless 21/May/07 2nd O/S

Not sure the description is right about where the crux is, I definitely found the lower moves harder.

Hidden 03/May/07 Lead O/S
tatz45 01/May/07 Lead O/S
IanJackson 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Luke Hunt
PaulTanton 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
dannyboy83 10/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Mick B 24/Mar/07 2nd rpt
with Steve Pritchard
Sidekick 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Nicos 05/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with dan woolnough
irish paul 03/Feb/07 2nd O/S

Andy's first E2, wonder about stepping round the arete

with Andy F
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead O/S
with James Fleming
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
mikeski ??/2007 Lead
gjw5670 09/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Richard
Bry 15/Oct/06 2nd dog
with Chris C
Jim Vach 12/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Oli Lyon
Pythonist 30/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 30/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Si dH 10/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Good lead Neil. Pathetic protection at half height for moves to deep break, which were quite tough (5a/b?) Crux on slopers above this was awkward in the wind. Managed to top out with a mantle rather than a flop this time :)

with Neil Furniss
maybe_si ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with jez
Morgan Woods 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S

got a crap small cam in below the crux....but mainly psychological pro.

with Gareth
Hidden 02/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
bronsonite 11/Dec/05 Lead O/S
with Nathan Lawrence
Mark A Humphries 07/Nov/05 Lead β
with Karl Walton
ukb shark 05/Oct/05 Solo rpt
Hidden 20/Aug/05 Lead
LankyPaddy 10/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Ralph Cooper
Hidden 14/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Alex Mason
Hidden 02/May/04 Lead
akhughes ??/2004 2nd
Hidden 12/Nov/03 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 19/Oct/03 Lead
datoon 03/Sep/03 2nd O/S
with C
Cragrat Rich ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S

My first E2 lead, early in my climbing career. Was going well one day at stanage and it just screamed at me to go for it. Didn`t really think or get concerned, just ate it up. One of my most perfect grit experiences

Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
duncan 31/May/03 2nd
with Vladimir Arnoudov
Mark Collins 13/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Andrew Eakins
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
rocktigger ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 22/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Jus ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ?/Aug/00 TR dog
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 2nd
with Chris Harvey
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
p.crooky#1 30/Apr/97 2nd
with Ecca
Hidden 13/Oct/96 2nd
Dave Musgrove 15/Oct/94 Lead
Roget 08/May/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/92 2nd
FATBOYFAT ??/1992 Solo O/S
Andy Say 23/Sep/89 Solo
Billg ??/1989 Solo O/S
mike bridges 08/Jun/85 TR O/S
with Neil Gregory
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High E3
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High E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 67
High 5c
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Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 63
Style of ascent
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