UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Hard work and excellent. Start up the centre of the lower wall but swing right (poor wires) under the roofs to a rest on the right. Traverse the narrow hanging wall leftwards (gripping and hard for long legs) until past the arete. Cross the final overhang using the flake in the nose or the breaks just left. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond (one big peg 1971). FFA. John Allen 1973.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomthetraddad 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Really nice moves at the start, went full punter when all bunched up and came off
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really nice moves at the start, went full punter when all bunched up and came off
Fiend 21 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Lower section has nice moves and well protected by good small cams. Well worth heeding the advice about the rest on the right, I didn't rest and failed on the top roof due to being very pumped and very sweaty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower section has nice moves and well protected by good small cams. Well worth heeding the advice about the rest on the right, I didn't rest and failed on the top roof due to being very pumped and very sweaty.
UKB Shark 4 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Good route. The wire in the first traverse right can be lodged in/backed up with a small cam. Top traverse cramped and a bit intimidating despite good pro. Watch for rope drag and ropes getting jammed in cracks when belaying.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route. The wire in the first traverse right can be lodged in/backed up with a small cam. Top traverse cramped and a bit intimidating despite good pro. Watch for rope drag and ropes getting jammed in cracks when belaying.
GDes 6 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: bottom section ok but unprotected (the nut behind the flake falls out pretty easy). top bit safe but pretty gripping, pumpy, and hard if you've got long legs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bottom section ok but unprotected (the nut behind the flake falls out pretty easy). top bit safe but pretty gripping, pumpy, and hard if you've got long legs.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 24
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dewdrop

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Pike Crag)

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