There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Hard work and excellent. Start up the centre of the lower wall but swing right (poor wires) under the roofs to a rest on the right. Traverse the narrow hanging wall leftwards (gripping and hard for long legs) until past the arete. Cross the final overhang using the flake in the nose or the breaks just left. © Rockfax
FA. Ed Drummond (one big peg 1971). FFA. John Allen 1973.
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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tomthetraddad | 27 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really nice moves at the start, went full punter when all bunched up and came off | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Really nice moves at the start, went full punter when all bunched up and came off |
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Fiend | 21 Dec, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lower section has nice moves and well protected by good small cams. Well worth heeding the advice about the rest on the right, I didn't rest and failed on the top roof due to being very pumped and very sweaty. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Lower section has nice moves and well protected by good small cams. Well worth heeding the advice about the rest on the right, I didn't rest and failed on the top roof due to being very pumped and very sweaty. |
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UKB Shark | 4 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route. The wire in the first traverse right can be lodged in/backed up with a small cam. Top traverse cramped and a bit intimidating despite good pro. Watch for rope drag and ropes getting jammed in cracks when belaying. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good route. The wire in the first traverse right can be lodged in/backed up with a small cam. Top traverse cramped and a bit intimidating despite good pro. Watch for rope drag and ropes getting jammed in cracks when belaying. |
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GDes | 6 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: bottom section ok but unprotected (the nut behind the flake falls out pretty easy). top bit safe but pretty gripping, pumpy, and hard if you've got long legs. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: bottom section ok but unprotected (the nut behind the flake falls out pretty easy). top bit safe but pretty gripping, pumpy, and hard if you've got long legs. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Pike Crag)