UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the steep shallow groove on the right-hand side of the overhanging face to a good ledge. The holds are better than you might expect though the runners aren't. Finish up the short overhanging crack just to the left, or escape right - tut tut. © Rockfax

FA. Bill Birch (one nut) 1968. FFA. John Allen 1973.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , John Allen (gritstone) megamix

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 7 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route. Start into the groove and you will find yourself on the ledge, knowing you've just passed 4/5 5b moves, but not necessarily knowing how. The moves just flow into each other very smoothly. Do NOT finish right - take on the final hanging crack as it's more scary than technically hard.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route. Start into the groove and you will find yourself on the ledge, knowing you've just passed 4/5 5b moves, but not necessarily knowing how. The moves just flow into each other very smoothly. Do NOT finish right - take on the final hanging crack as it's more scary than technically hard.
Tyler 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: There's a BIG difference between escaping right or going over the hanging crack. Going over the hanging crack would be a bit contrived but not doing so felt a real cop out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's a BIG difference between escaping right or going over the hanging crack. Going over the hanging crack would be a bit contrived but not doing so felt a real cop out.

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 21
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mordaunt

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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