Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the steep shallow groove on the right-hand side of the overhanging face to a good ledge. The holds are better than you might expect though the runners aren't. Finish up the short overhanging crack just to the left, or escape right - tut tut. © Rockfax
FA. Bill Birch (one nut) 1968. FFA. John Allen 1973.
Ticklists
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , John Allen (gritstone) megamix
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pythonist | 7 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb route. Start into the groove and you will find yourself on the ledge, knowing you've just passed 4/5 5b moves, but not necessarily knowing how. The moves just flow into each other very smoothly. Do NOT finish right - take on the final hanging crack as it's more scary than technically hard. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Superb route. Start into the groove and you will find yourself on the ledge, knowing you've just passed 4/5 5b moves, but not necessarily knowing how. The moves just flow into each other very smoothly. Do NOT finish right - take on the final hanging crack as it's more scary than technically hard. |
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| Tyler | 11 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: There's a BIG difference between escaping right or going over the hanging crack. Going over the hanging crack would be a bit contrived but not doing so felt a real cop out. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There's a BIG difference between escaping right or going over the hanging crack. Going over the hanging crack would be a bit contrived but not doing so felt a real cop out. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooksPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Wuthering
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)