Rockfax Description
A fine climb up the left-hand side of the face. Pull through the roof using a flake-crack then easier climbing leads to a blank section. This is climbed by a hard semi-mantelshelf (large cams) then move left to finish through the bulges with a flourish. © Rockfax

FA. Phil Burke 1978

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s.

MNC 15/Oct 2nd
with Alex
The Screaming Finn 20/Sep 2nd dnf
Carl 20/Sep Lead O/S

Spent a very long time hanging around before committing to the hard move!

lukevf 20/Sep 2nd dog
with CarlWH
bencole 17/Sep 2nd
climberchristy 17/Sep Lead rpt

Nice to repeat this great line.

with bencole
Lukem6 26/Aug Lead G/U

Went up to roof back to ground then to the top.... definately not the reachiest route arpund the peak, one moment i'm 2"s too short then i'm reaching it with more than enough reach left over

with Anna
Hidden 15/Aug Lead O/S
morganator 11/Aug Lead
with Stan Halstead
Ilia Nadyrbayev 06/Aug 2nd O/S
Kirill 06/Aug Lead dnf

No better than last time, but I will keep trying.

with Ilia
ned_85 03/Aug 2nd dog
SamStrong93 03/Aug Lead O/S
Tala A 17/Jul 2nd dog


Droyd 14/Jun Lead dnf

Picked a crap day to try this again (very sweaty), but still baffled by the crux. Possibly easier for those with meaty hands, as the jams in the break felt incredibly rattly and insecure.

with Jimmy
dewiturton 23/May Lead
with keitht
keitht 23/May 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr Lead rpt
Dave Almond 06/Apr Lead O/S


with A Crook
A Crook 06/Apr 2nd dog
Kirill 02/Apr Lead dnf

Couldn't do the crux; scuttled off right to finish up the Congo.

with Peter Brown
The Grist 25/Mar Lead G/U
with Lee Hamilton
Rory_Cummings_NI 08/Mar 2nd
with Andy Moles, Dave
Andy Moles 08/Mar Lead
with Dave Lyons Ewing
Hidden 08/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 11/Nov/16 Lead
Robin Nichols 02/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Jim, Jemma
bigdrew 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S
CraigOsborne 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Crux felt utterly desperate, a lot of up and down before finally getting it!

Adam24B 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Lovely route with a thought provoking move

Kris2fa 23/Oct/16 2nd β
with Adam24B
Hidden 22/Oct/16 2nd dog
geoff b 22/Oct/16 Lead

This packs a lot of action into a short space. Had to use a full wrap-around-leg manoeuvre to outfox the roof at the bottom! The second half is thought provoking but well protected (as long as you brought enough cams). One lob off the crux when I went for the chalked up, poor finger hold instead of the unchalked, nearer, better hold; darn!

Hidden 20/Oct/16 Lead dnf
mattlyons 19/Oct/16 2nd

Easier for the tall.

bwestwood 09/Oct/16 2nd
pie_eater_pete 09/Oct/16 -
MSchobitz 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S


Hidden 17/Sep/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead
Mike505 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
RKirke 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Stroppy 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Droyd 21/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Couldn't figure out the crux

with Fredrik Hansson
James Oswald 23/May/16 Lead O/S


with Malcolm Scott
Hidden 07/May/16 Lead
Conor Nally 05/May/16 Lead
with jake dowell
FlavioL1989 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 10/Apr/16 2nd dog
with Flavio
CarlaJG 26/Mar/16 2nd

"Shaun's variant" .... up dark continent to the slab but then across to congo corner on very very large fist jams (too large for my tiny hands) and a rather sloppy finish up the arete.

john lynch ??/2016 Lead rpt
with Bethan D
Harry Thorpe 11/Oct/15 2nd dog
thetradlad 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Took some time to figure out / commit t' crux

tatz45 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Pembroke
BTphonehome 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic climbing throughout. Baffling crux. Up and down a few times before finding something that worked which was completely the opposite to the way Tony did it.

with Tony
tmawer 29/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Bram
benlatham07 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
ned_85 15/Aug/15 Lead
will9911 10/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead RP
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Brannock 16/May/15 2nd
drysori 16/May/15 Lead
with Everyone!
ralphio 01/May/15 Lead O/S

Only slightly harder than Congo Corner.

with Simon
drysori 20/Apr/15 TR
Hidden ??/2015 -
robgixer ??/2015 -
Hidden 09/Nov/14 2nd
theotherpetehill 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Caroline Culwick
Andy Peak 1 29/Oct/14 2nd
the power 29/Oct/14 Lead dnf


with Andy
fabricio 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with lee
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead dnf
greenclimb 05/Oct/14 Lead
nick ferro 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Left hand jam, mantle with right hand to get high enough and reach good pocket with right.

Andy Peak 1 28/Sep/14 -

Being massive dusnt help:-)

ChrisBrooke 22/Aug/14 2nd

Found easy this time on the second.

with Duncan Bell
rurp 05/Aug/14 Lead dnf

.5cm short finished up Congo

p.j.deacon 04/Aug/14 2nd dog
Nick1812P 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jake
Jake Young 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Nick
climb the peak 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Thinker01 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Took a couple of wobbly retreats from the long stretch before I made it but very pleased when I got there. Not a route for the short!

RFWilkie 29/Jun/14 2nd dog

Long reach just too far for my stumpy arms!

with Mark
Gambit 26/Jun/14 Lead dog

One fall on the crux. went with wrong foot. Rest was OK

the power 11/Jun/14 Lead dnf
with Paul Hy
mynyddresident 07/Jun/14 Lead
with KP
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt
helin 05/Jun/14 2nd dog
with gavin
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead dog
WillDoyle 01/Jun/14 2nd
dannyboy83 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
cpoad 16/Apr/14 TR dnf

Couldn't do that jam low down

with John S
Jim Slater 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Clean, tick.

john max 29/Mar/14 2nd dog

Couldn't do the crux stretch, moved right

mike lawrence? 12/Mar/14 -

couldn't do long reach

with luca
Goose4 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
the power 16/Feb/14 Lead dnf

fuck knows how the crux goes hahaha

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 16/Feb/14 Lead

brill one move wonder stand on small pebbles and co for it!

with phill ukc
ashtond6 16/Feb/14 Lead

silly fall on hard move, picked wrong pocket!

Dave Turnbull, BMC 02/Jan/14 Lead rpt
with Greg Rimmer
Andy Peak 1 ??/2014 -

Party pice route, the very tall need not apply:-?

mike mo ??/2014 -
Bob ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2014 -
bencole ?/Nov/13 Lead rpt
Andy Peak 1 08/Oct/13 Lead

I cud not second this a few years ago, now it feels like a walk in the park:-)

dr_botnik 08/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Gudge 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great route - spent ages trying to work out the crux but when finally sussed it the move seemed ok and not to reachy.

Hidden 02/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Spent an eternity at the reach but with a bit of encouragement finally made the move. Nice sunset!

with CJ Carter
Lotoni 27/Jul/13 Lead dnf

fell several times on the big reach, finished on congo, abseiled later and took a look to the subsequent holds

joese7en 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Neil R 30/Jun/13 2nd dog

Tight rope on hard move near top

with Tim
Jim Slater 21/Jun/13 Lead dog

Cool route.. crux took some working out, good feeling when I finally cracked it. Rest on lower moves through the overhang.

with David Brown
The Grist 04/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Failed. Tried the move wrong. Need to go back and finish. Left foot up next time not right.

Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd O/S
climberchristy 31/May/13 Lead O/S

What a great route! 3 stars! Really reachy so felt top end of 5c for a shorty like me but well protected so E1 spot on grade.

with bencole
Hidden 02/Feb/13 2nd O/S
JayAyBee ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Rich
Andrew Barker 09/Oct/12 Lead O/S
catblack 09/Oct/12 2nd dog

just couldn't reach the hold and the slopey edge of it wasn't enough

martroberts 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Blimey this was only just! Quite a height dependant crux and felt like solid 5c to me at 170cm. Top route!

jwpil 28/Aug/12 2nd dog

Erm, tried it the wrong way and muffed it. Easier the other way, but still quite hard.

with Jon
Haydn Jones 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with deacon
deacondeacon 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 18/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt
The Big Sender 11/Aug/12 Lead

random slip off the start

redjerry ?/Aug/12 2nd
darlolad 25/Jul/12 TR
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Jonathan Hall 10/Jun/12 2nd

Tried to lead and bailed off on the mantelshelf. I'm claiming vertical challengeness on this one!

disturbed_one51 10/Jun/12 2nd
Tamati ?/Jun/12 Lead
Mr Sparkle 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Taylor
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Maxim2023 ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Incredible rock up move!

with Matt Smith
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Andy Peak 1 28/Oct/11 2nd
Lev 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd dnf
Cake 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Extreme cake again! Hard move, but not hard for E1 overall. Excellent

with Matt
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Oct/11 2nd
Chad123 24/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Lovely varied route with nice pumpy jugs and a cool leg hook over the block followed by a cool technical move and a nice headwall. Not quite as good as Congo Corner though all in all. Beta for crux is use a hand jam! Felt about two grades easier than desperation so surprised to see that people think it's hard for grade!

with Sam
mark20 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Crux move looks hard and unlikely but was actually okay

Douglas 16/Sep/11 2nd
Alex Winter 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Bit of farting about before the crux. Great stuff.

with Doug
Hidden 09/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Aug/11 2nd O/S
al123 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

really fun route, nice strecth

with alex
w.pettet-smith ?/Aug/11 Lead

awsome move! nice lower hardbit too, interesting all the way.3 star

with claire jane carter
Alex 74 23/Jul/11 2nd
with Dan P.
allyrocke 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/11 Lead β
Ahab ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Superb varied climbing.

belay bunny turned bad 17/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 17/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Ben Harper 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
gidmord 11/Jun/11 2nd β
Dave Foster 27/May/11 2nd O/S

What a great route.

with Si 2
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead
JRae 24/May/11 Lead

Its a long way!!!

with P Latham
Rachel Slater 06/May/11 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 06/May/11 Lead O/S

cool route. high foot rockover.

psychicbread 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Max
barrowclough 27/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Spod
john lynch 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Tony Holdsworth 24/Mar/11 Lead β
with Ian Holtby
uphillnow ??/2011 -
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 ??/2011 2nd
with nelil
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
tebs 24/Oct/10 2nd rpt

Superb again. Much harder than Wuthering, though safe as houses. My favourite route at Stanage, along with Heaven Crack which you can solo on the way back down, grit climbing of the highest quality. Oh yes.

with Mike
Andrew Sloan 09/Oct/10 Lead dnf

No where near getting this. Headed off right onto congo corner.

with Tim
AsleepOnBelay 22/Sep/10 2nd O/S

What a move! Now I need to lead it.

with Johannes
stephenhartley 05/Sep/10 2nd
with Burns
haydng 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with John, Hannah, Cal
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd dog
cobweb 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

very tricky 5c bouldering type move above totally bomber gear . brill !

with Roger Waterworth, martyn hopson
Adam Potter 24/May/10 Lead O/S
tebs 09/May/10 Lead O/S

Crux took a bit of working out, a long stretch off a poor sloper but fine once committed. A properly good route.

with Jon
Pete Graham 18/Apr/10 Lead
with James Fleming
Graeme Hammond 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S

cool moves (like the funky heel hook to gain the Congo Corner traverse) on good jugs and good jams on steep rock, followed by a contrasting delicate crux and romping through the bulges above make for a 3* route in my book, a great end to the day :D

Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
ryanjones ??/2010 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 07/Nov/09 Lead
Milne 13/Oct/09 2nd O/S

moved onto congo corner to avoid long reach jam move, quality route though.

Hidden 13/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/09 2nd rpt
bigphil 25/May/09 Lead O/S
with Paul Willinson
greenclimb 23/May/09 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Hidden 21/May/09 Lead
Skell 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
Owen W-G 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Good gear but top end E1 for sure. Initial pumpy steepness with a stretchy crux up on the headwall. Interest maintained to the top with some abrasive jamming in horizontal breaks.

with Tony Seale
Sankey 04/Apr/09 2nd dnf

Didn't get through the overhang!

with Luke
Hidden 03/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Alex@home ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S

or maybe 2010, memory's not what it was

with The Doctor
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2009 2nd O/S
with Andy S
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 12/Oct/08 Lead rpt

Had about 10 attempts at crux move before getting it. Had to veer off right at top as had run out of cams...very tough crux move.

with Malik
lowersharpnose 19/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with John Nuttall
Hidden 18/Sep/08 2nd
clive-greenwood 10/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Well protected by BIG friends, a very long balancy reach. A great safe 5c move, very photogenic too.

MikeLeeds 10/Sep/08 2nd O/S
SteveM 10/Sep/08 2nd dog

Couldn't make the crux reach above the good break. Damn these short arms ;-)

with Clive
Andrew Sloan 23/Aug/08 2nd dog
Martin Haworth 23/Aug/08 Lead dnf
with Andy
Hidden 18/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Dan 85 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Niall
IAmAStone 29/Jul/08 2nd

Leader bottled the top section and moved right to the finishing moves of the link.

with Liz Swanson
HimTiggins 17/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with Jon & Luke
Jon_Warner 06/Jun/08 2nd dnf

Desperate. Felt like eng 6a/b for me (short and inflexible)

roberto18 05/Jun/08 Lead

great route, get those hip flexers going, tip: step up with your left foot.

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
derico 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Sadact
mike bridges 04/Jun/08 2nd RP

needed tight rope,just wasn`t supple enough to stretch for the break!

Cragrat Rich 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Finally committed to and did the crux after a backing off once before. Seemed easy when it went!

Hidden 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/08 2nd rpt
Fraser13 30/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Nicos 14/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with simon shaw
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Mark Walter 12/Oct/07 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Aug/07 2nd
ksjs 16/Jul/07 Lead O/S

very good - really nice crux, well protected by large cams

with sarah
Luke Brooks 15/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
craig d 29/Jun/07 Lead RP

crux reach felt really hard 1st go then easy on 2nd try when i worked out short mans way

with Simon Kincaid
Joe Dove 10/Jun/07 2nd
with paul
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
galpinos 25/May/07 2nd O/S
with lowersharpnose
Hidden 03/May/07 Lead dog
PaulTanton 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
richgibson ?/Apr/07 2nd
with John
Stig 24/Mar/07 Lead dnf

finished up Congo Corner

with Maciek
Hidden ?/Mar/07 2nd
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 28/Oct/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Xav 21/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with sean jacobs
Hidden 21/Sep/06 2nd dnf
Chris the Tall 21/Sep/06 Lead dnf

Pretty ignominius defeat low down

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 02/Jul/06 2nd O/S
mel holmes 25/May/06 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead dnf
Ram MkiV 10/Apr/06 Lead dog

Fell once at crux 5c reach off undercut jam. First time fallen on E1 for ages, oh well. Tough move.

with Alex and Parker
Si dH 21/Sep/05 2nd dog
with Neil Furniss
Ben Bransby 23/Jun/05 Solo
Apharri ?/Mar/05 2nd
with Dave Wharton
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead RP
DubyaJamesDubya 03/May/03 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead
with MH
Hidden 29/Mar/03 Lead β
phardman 28/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/02 2nd
Hidden 16/Feb/02 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Jody ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with JD
Strong Steve 13/Feb/00 Lead O/S
nige ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Boy ??/2000 -
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/97 Lead
Chris Reid 14/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Plummer
WB 30/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Guy
Jon Read ??/1997 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 11/Apr/96 2nd
with Robert Durran
Hidden 26/Mar/96 AltLd
Hidden 04/Nov/95 Lead
John Southworth 16/Jul/95 Solo O/S
Rich Kirby 19/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/95 -
Hidden 26/Mar/95 Lead
nai ??/1995 Lead
The Reaper 12/Oct/94 TR O/S


Hidden 07/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/94 Lead
goi.ashmore 01/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Dee Herbert
Hidden 12/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/93 Lead
nokishatov 01/May/93 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead


charlesmfrench 29/Aug/92 2nd O/S
ste_d 19/May/92 2nd O/S
with mik
Hidden ?/May/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/91 Lead
Hidden 22/Oct/91 2nd
Steve Crowe 04/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with KM
sadams 01/Mar/91 Lead
with Kev Mellieu
NickJH ??/1991 -
steve taylor ??/1991 Lead
with stumpy
Billg ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Roget 13/May/90 Lead O/S
with jim, jon
Hidden 17/Mar/90 Lead
SteveB_NWUK_99 ??/1990 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/89 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/89 Lead
phardman 03/Jun/89 Lead O/S
Derek Furze ??/1989 2nd
with Duncan Parker
Derek Furze ??/1989 2nd
with Duncan Parker
Stoney Boy 22/May/88 Lead O/S
with Neil Binns
Hidden 27/Sep/87 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/87 Lead
Rob Davies 13/Jun/87 2nd

Long reaches

Hidden 29/Nov/86 Lead
Neil R 29/Sep/86 2nd
with Mark
Tom V 21/Jul/86 Lead
with Howie Darwin
Hidden 12/Jun/86 Lead
GordonHart ??/1986 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Dave Turnbull 25/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Ian Bocock
Hidden 07/Apr/84 2nd
Hidden 07/May/83 Lead
Dave Musgrove 23/Oct/82 Lead O/S
stp 12/Jun/82 Lead

Found this hard at the time. Thus never felt inspired to try to solo it.

Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Lead
with Bob Higginbotham
Mark Kemball 05/Dec/81 2nd
with Paul Clark
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
andy gittins ??/1979 -
Canyak ??/1973 -
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 71
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 69
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set