UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

20m.

Rockfax Description
The tall straight flake is wide, awkward and slippery but cams in the horizontal breaks make it safe enough. Swarm up the flake to a high ledge with a huge wobbly block and finish up the short wall behind, or step left onto the arete for more exposure. © Rockfax

FA. Herbert Hartley 1929.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , The Gritlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Capricorn One 3 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: #4 cam gets you into the crack, #2 protects the crux.
Show beta
βeta: #4 cam gets you into the crack, #2 protects the crux.
THE.WALRUS 26 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I found the crux almost unclimbable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found the crux almost unclimbable.
Gripped 25 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The polish stops after the awkward move; there are tales in that somewhere. I backed off this on a grey, damp, November day a few months after starting to climb (severe!). Great to finally do it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The polish stops after the awkward move; there are tales in that somewhere. I backed off this on a grey, damp, November day a few months after starting to climb (severe!). Great to finally do it.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 132
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 133
Votes cast 127
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Inaccessible Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)

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