16m.

Rockfax Description
An exciting route across the left-hand side of the roof. Climb the slab to the curving flake in the overhang, then using fat jams (large cam protection) trend to the right to finish just right of the nose on good holds. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Stanage Popular

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Pythonist 22 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't find this too much more difficult than FDB, didn't use jams, and thought it was as good as FBD... Great roof route with good moves, and a bit wild. Would love to try Flying Butt now, just for the finale!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Didn't find this too much more difficult than FDB, didn't use jams, and thought it was as good as FBD... Great roof route with good moves, and a bit wild. Would love to try Flying Butt now, just for the finale!
nate 17 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Much harder then FBD maybe because im short? Nice tho...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Much harder then FBD maybe because im short? Nice tho...
Peter Rhodes 29 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I found this considerably harder than Flying Buttress Direct, I get the feeling that this is the real 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found this considerably harder than Flying Buttress Direct, I get the feeling that this is the real 5b.
UKB Shark 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Searched in vain for the fist jams - quite disappointed not find them in a strange way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Searched in vain for the fist jams - quite disappointed not find them in a strange way.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Ewan Russell 12 Sep Lead O/S
Dr Toph 4 Jul Lead O/S
with Stef
with Stef
Hidden 29 Jun 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Jun Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 9 Jun 2nd
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
Luke90 9 Jun Lead O/S Not going to comment on the grading of FBD but whatever grade it is, this is the same grade! Good fun and absolutely no jamming required, to my immense relief. Didn't feel like I should have been jamming, either.
Not going to comment on the grading of FBD but whatever grade it is, this is the same grade! Good fun and absolutely no jamming required, to my immense relief. Didn't feel like I should have been jamming, either.
cragsman9000 30 May Lead RP
with bob_cbr
with bob_cbr
Andrew Barker 29 Mar Lead O/S Quality yarding.
with Toby
Quality yarding.
with Toby
Toby 29 Mar 2nd
Andy Peak 1 21 Mar 2nd
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 21 Mar Lead G/U
Stuart Walker 13 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
MaxPrescott 13 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
taner 23 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Mischa2912 30 Jul, 2018 Solo O/S
Droyd 21 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U Good
with Pete
Good
with Pete
phardy 21 Jun, 2018 2nd dog Rested on rope to get Cam abandoned on FBD
with Droyd
Rested on rope to get Cam abandoned on FBD
with Droyd
Hidden 3 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
mrteale 8 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S Good climb, can't believe I'd overlooked it before
Good climb, can't believe I'd overlooked it before
shaunhumphreys 8 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S The hard seection is short and didn't seem that interesting just reach the next break... certainly not a classic!
The hard seection is short and didn't seem that interesting just reach the next break... certainly not a classic!
benkelsey 8 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S Felt pretty soft this!
Felt pretty soft this!
Jwatson 14 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
ClimbyVitti 26 Feb, 2018 2nd β
with Axel Ciceri
with Axel Ciceri
AxelC 24 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
with Vitti
with Vitti
Rob Laird 15 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Rafal Malczyk 15 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
with Rob Laird
with Rob Laird
soph 24 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Katherine Schirmaccer
with Katherine Schirmaccer
James Oakes 16 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
LBrown 25 Aug, 2017 Solo
Neil McA 22 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
with Stan, morganator
with Stan, morganator
morganator 22 Jul, 2017 Lead
with Stan Halstead
with Stan Halstead
sparkass 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Actually really good, might be the best route on this buttress?
with Rob Lovatt
Actually really good, might be the best route on this buttress?
with Rob Lovatt
cragsman9000 1 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
with bob_cbr
with bob_cbr
Hidden 1 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
RKernan 13 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt Nice to finally knock the bastard off, 3 years later. May have damaged wrist in the process...
Nice to finally knock the bastard off, 3 years later. May have damaged wrist in the process...
Hidden 8 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Rory_Cummings_NI 8 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
with Danny Mitchell, Hamish Maslen
with Danny Mitchell, Hamish Maslen
Hidden ??, 2017 Lead
M.hoffmann 18 Dec, 2016 Lead β nemesis finally beaten! first clean E1, awsome climb!
nemesis finally beaten! first clean E1, awsome climb!
hamer89 2 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
pete1993 23 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S the e1 version on FBD! took a bit of udging but got there eventually, some fun spans on it
the e1 version on FBD! took a bit of udging but got there eventually, some fun spans on it
Hidden 23 Oct, 2016 2nd rpt
td72 11 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
with bryan61
with bryan61
bryan61 10 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with td72, m meaney
with td72, m meaney
michalrgorzynski 15 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Marta
with Marta
hervenuttall ?May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Matt W
with Matt W
leopolian 13 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
with dom94
with dom94
dom94 13 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Roberttaylor 2 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 2 Apr, 2016 Lead β
Nick1812P 2 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 13 Mar, 2016 Lead
with Kate
with Kate
Hidden 13 Mar, 2016 2nd
Hidden 20 Oct, 2015 Lead
GPN 4 Oct, 2015 Lead
with net
with net
The Grist 23 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
HazelMacLean 16 Jun, 2015 2nd dog So overhanging! Don't need jamming but prepare to be pumped.
So overhanging! Don't need jamming but prepare to be pumped.
oread 4 May, 2015 Lead β Lead, previously seconded last yr
Lead, previously seconded last yr
danflyingman 2 May, 2015 2nd RP
pearson9596 13 Dec, 2014 Lead dog
Albachoss 1 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
with RKirke
with RKirke
RKirke 1 Nov, 2014 2nd O/S
cf2g08 12 Oct, 2014 TR dog
kyaizawa 1 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Emma Reynolds 1 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
rurp 13 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Hard work after the one next door!
with Alex bacon
Hard work after the one next door!
with Alex bacon
Rachel Slater 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S A little harder than FBD and equally as good.
A little harder than FBD and equally as good.
James Oswald ?Jun, 2014 2nd O/S Seconded, amazing route. Easier but better than FBD.
Seconded, amazing route. Easier but better than FBD.
Hidden 3 May, 2014 TR O/S
oread 19 Apr, 2014 2nd
RKernan 15 Apr, 2014 Lead dog one fall, one rest. one move before a double knee bar. D'oh, next time.
one fall, one rest. one move before a double knee bar. D'oh, next time.
ldavison440 15 Apr, 2014 2nd
with RKernan
with RKernan
Hidden 12 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
pie_eater_pete 5 Mar, 2014 Lead
with bwestwood
with bwestwood
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
Wil Treasure 23 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 4 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
elyben 20 Oct, 2013 Lead
stevorobs3 20 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
MartinPL 20 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
Climber1806 15 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with George Morris
with George Morris
Hidden 13 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
JamesRich 13 Aug, 2013 2nd dnf
Stanners 13 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S A wild vertical voyage!
with James Rich, Quarryboy
A wild vertical voyage!
with James Rich, Quarryboy
Hidden 6 Jun, 2013 2nd rpt
Jake Young 6 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with jwpil
with jwpil
Hidden 1 Jun, 2013 2nd β
Hidden 31 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
DanOsb 28 Feb, 2013 2nd good holds. good rest.
good holds. good rest.
w.pettet-smith ?Feb, 2013 Lead O/S well protected, a couple of nice udges
well protected, a couple of nice udges
Gudge ?Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Pete Staves
with Pete Staves
Hidden 28 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 28 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
simonp ?May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
with Annelies Sarrazyn
mark20 30 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Keendan 24 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S Barefoot
with Alun
Barefoot
with Alun
Andy Moles 18 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
Andy Peak 1 10 Mar, 2012 Lead I had a nice lye down on the big ledge after the heel huck.
with random
I had a nice lye down on the big ledge after the heel huck.
with random
67hours 10 Mar, 2012 2nd Fell off for the 2nd time today. Ha.
Fell off for the 2nd time today. Ha.
robgixer ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 13 Nov, 2011 2nd O/S wet. Anna did the slab one handed.
wet. Anna did the slab one handed.
Adam Booth 13 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S Wet!
Wet!
conorjclarke 6 Nov, 2011 2nd β
with Noah Haber
with Noah Haber
Climber1806 ?Nov, 2011 Lead β
Ralfy 16 Oct, 2011 Lead dnf
with John Sealy
with John Sealy
Cake 14 Sep, 2011 Lead dnf Oh dear. But was I as motivated as I was for FBD?
Oh dear. But was I as motivated as I was for FBD?
Skell 25 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Fantastic climb, loved the moves, definitely worth 3 stars.
with Jules
Fantastic climb, loved the moves, definitely worth 3 stars.
with Jules
Tony Holdsworth 17 Aug, 2011 2nd rpt
with Peter Harris
with Peter Harris
cobweb 11 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with martyn hopson
with martyn hopson
morganator 8 Jun, 2011 Lead
with Jake Morgan, James Hall
with Jake Morgan, James Hall
Hidden 13 Apr, 2011 2nd
Phill Mitch 7 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 24 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ian Holtby
with Ian Holtby
Hidden 23 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Mar, 2011 2nd
Hidden 22 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Alex@home ?Mar, 2011 Lead O/S thought the climbing on this was every bit as good as on FBD
with The Doctor
thought the climbing on this was every bit as good as on FBD
with The Doctor
jfane ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Dec, 2010 -
Hidden 19 Nov, 2010 Lead
colkurtz 19 Nov, 2010 2nd
with Robb
with Robb
Ahab 7 Nov, 2010 Lead β
Hidden 24 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Jack Loftus 24 Oct, 2010 2nd
nadeem 12 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf Bit of a fucking epic, placed gear in the wrong place, tangled my ropes up and then it started to rain. had to make a speedy retreat via a bit of air time to the slab. will be back for it
Bit of a fucking epic, placed gear in the wrong place, tangled my ropes up and then it started to rain. had to make a speedy retreat via a bit of air time to the slab. will be back for it
Spence22 27 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Wil
with Wil
PeteH 31 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Awesome! At least as good as Flying Buttress Direct, if you ask me.
with Craig + Sarah
Awesome! At least as good as Flying Buttress Direct, if you ask me.
with Craig + Sarah
Hidden 16 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Martin Cooper 17 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Hurt my nuts
with Stan
Hurt my nuts
with Stan
MorganPreece 16 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Haha couldunt stop laughing when doing the mantle!
with Jessy and Solo
Haha couldunt stop laughing when doing the mantle!
with Jessy and Solo
Climber1806 16 Apr, 2010 2nd β fun route good holds.
with Morgan Preece
fun route good holds.
with Morgan Preece
beeson_paul 17 Mar, 2010 2nd leader had an epic and bit of pannick attack at top but all fine :)
leader had an epic and bit of pannick attack at top but all fine :)
jon clayton 11 Mar, 2010 Lead
with Paul Beeson
with Paul Beeson
Pown 2 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S
Pete Graham 2 Mar, 2010 Lead
with Pown
with Pown
Hidden 24 Sep, 2009 Lead β
mel holmes 17 Sep, 2009 2nd
with nai
with nai
nai 17 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Ketu 7 Sep, 2009 Lead dnf
Graeme Hammond 3 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S straight forward enough, although more steep than FBD its not quite as well protected (more E1 than FBD is) But its all over very quickly just pull hard and rock over onto jugs!
straight forward enough, although more steep than FBD its not quite as well protected (more E1 than FBD is) But its all over very quickly just pull hard and rock over onto jugs!
gazfellows 25 Jul, 2009 2nd
steveb2006 8 Jul, 2009 Lead Worthwhile - harder than FBD
with Mick F
Worthwhile - harder than FBD
with Mick F
JIMJIM ?Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
tuftynick ?Apr, 2009 Lead rpt
with pob
with pob
hamish2016 15 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with chris burn
with chris burn
Alex Mason 4 Mar, 2009 Lead Failed too second 3yrs ago (no idea how). No harder moves than FBD but the crux is above gear. (first route with GVG, whoop!)
with Guy VG
Failed too second 3yrs ago (no idea how). No harder moves than FBD but the crux is above gear. (first route with GVG, whoop!)
with Guy VG
Hidden 4 Mar, 2009 2nd O/S
Byronius Maximus 1 Mar, 2009 2nd
with Twisty
with Twisty
Twisty 1 Mar, 2009 Lead β Wicked route, with lots of small foot adjustments between each handhold, which made for a pleasant climb!
with Byron Buck
Wicked route, with lots of small foot adjustments between each handhold, which made for a pleasant climb!
with Byron Buck
SGD ??, 2009 2nd 2nd Dave, this is good
with DW2
2nd Dave, this is good
with DW2
Hidden 17 Oct, 2008 Lead
Pete Wimbush ?Sep, 2008 2nd
with Gavin Singleton
with Gavin Singleton
Slatehead 20 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S Just about as hard as FBD
with Sean Jacobs
Just about as hard as FBD
with Sean Jacobs
will9911 24 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Twisty 11 May, 2008 Lead dnf Took 4 falls, way too hot, know I can do the moves- and one to go and get cleanly!
with Byron Buck
Took 4 falls, way too hot, know I can do the moves- and one to go and get cleanly!
with Byron Buck
Hidden ??, 2008 -
jamiev 31 Jul, 2007 2nd β lovely despite the attack of the midges
with Kenta Tanaka
lovely despite the attack of the midges
with Kenta Tanaka
Hidden 7 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
Mattyk 7 Jul, 2007 2nd i rolled/mantled fully onto the ledge above the overhang before reaching up made it easier and less of a giant stretch
with ali k
i rolled/mantled fully onto the ledge above the overhang before reaching up made it easier and less of a giant stretch
with ali k
Hidden 10 Jun, 2007 -
dan gibson 24 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with AJ
with AJ
AJ007 24 Apr, 2007 2nd dog
Pythonist 21 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S Great roof route. Slightly harder than FBD (E1, not HVS), but just as much fun.
Great roof route. Slightly harder than FBD (E1, not HVS), but just as much fun.
Pete Graham ??, 2007 2nd
with Ben Smith
with Ben Smith
Hidden ??, 2007 -
01wills 4 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S good climb
with David Radly
good climb
with David Radly
Ram MkiV 12 May, 2006 Lead O/S didn't have to use any fist jams. Did however use a kind of toe jam.
with Alex, Dan & Tony
didn't have to use any fist jams. Did however use a kind of toe jam.
with Alex, Dan & Tony
dan gibson ??, 2006 -
Boy ??, 2006 -
Rich Guest ?Jun, 2005 Lead O/S Overhanging grit thuggery. Massively inferior to Flying Buttress Direct
Overhanging grit thuggery. Massively inferior to Flying Buttress Direct
Hidden ?Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2005 2nd β
Mark Stevenson 29 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
uphillnow 24 Mar, 2003 Lead rpt Great route, even got a rest in middle - hang off left arm (think it was left!) and lay bum leg almost horizontal - must do it again then I might remember how I got the rest!
with mat allatt
Great route, even got a rest in middle - hang off left arm (think it was left!) and lay bum leg almost horizontal - must do it again then I might remember how I got the rest!
with mat allatt
Hidden 21 Sep, 2002 Lead O/S
mcb ??, 2002 2nd O/S
nige ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Gilgar ??, 1999 2nd
with Ryan Edwards, Duncan Barrack
with Ryan Edwards, Duncan Barrack
Ben Bransby ??, 1999 -
Hidden 11 Jan, 1998 2nd rpt
Hidden 23 Nov, 1997 Lead O/S
Ian Carr 23 Nov, 1997 2nd
goi.ashmore 20 Sep, 1997 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
with Myles Jordan
Roget 25 Jan, 1997 Lead O/S
clanger ??, 1996 -
Neil McA 24 May, 1990 Lead O/S
David Slater ?Sep, 1986 Lead
with Leicester Uni MC
with Leicester Uni MC
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 28
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set