Rockfax Description
An exciting route across the left-hand side of the roof. Climb the slab to the curving flake in the overhang, then using fat jams (large cam protection) trend to the right to finish just right of the nose on good holds. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

Rob Laird 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
soph 24/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Katherine Schirmaccer
James Oakes 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S
LBrown 25/Aug/17 Solo
Neil McA 22/Jul/17 2nd rpt
with Stan, Jon Morgan
morganator 22/Jul/17 Lead
with Stan Halstead
sparkass 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Rob Lovatt
cragsman9000 01/Jun/17 Lead dog
with Neil
Hidden 01/Jun/17 Lead O/S
RKernan 13/Apr/17 Lead rpt

Nice to finally knock the bastard off, 3 years later. May have damaged wrist in the process...

Hidden 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Rory_Cummings_NI 08/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Danny Mitchell, Hamish
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
M.hoffmann 18/Dec/16 Lead β

nemesis finally beaten! first clean E1, awsome climb!

pete1993 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S

the e1 version on FBD! took a bit of udging but got there eventually, some fun spans on it

with Jamie
Hidden 23/Oct/16 2nd rpt
td72 11/Sep/16 2nd O/S
bryan61 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Tom D, m meaney
michalrgorzynski 15/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Marta
hervenuttall ?/May/16 Lead O/S
with Matt W
leopolian 13/Apr/16 2nd dog
dom94 13/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Roberttaylor 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/16 Lead β
Nick1812P 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Luke Brooks 13/Mar/16 Lead
with Kate
Hidden 13/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden 20/Oct/15 Lead
GPN 04/Oct/15 Lead
with Annette
The Grist 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Doldon
Hidden 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
HazelMacLean 16/Jun/15 2nd dog

So overhanging! Don't need jamming but prepare to be pumped.

oread 04/May/15 Lead β

Lead, previously seconded last yr

danflyingman 02/May/15 2nd RP
pearson9596 13/Dec/14 Lead dog
Albachoss 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
RKirke 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
with Banksy
cf2g08 12/Oct/14 TR dog
with Iain
kyaizawa 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Emma Reynolds 01/Sep/14 2nd O/S
rurp 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Hard work after the one next door!

with Alex bacon
Rachel Slater 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

A little harder than FBD and equally as good.

James Oswald ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Seconded, amazing route. Easier but better than FBD.

Hidden 03/May/14 TR O/S
oread 19/Apr/14 2nd
RKernan 15/Apr/14 Lead dog

one fall, one rest. one move before a double knee bar. D'oh, next time.

ldavison440 15/Apr/14 2nd
tebs 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S

I thought this was ace. Just as good as its neighbour. Even better sit down rest.

with Adam
pie_eater_pete 05/Mar/14 Lead
with bwestwood
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Wil Treasure 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 04/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Jonny P
elyben 20/Oct/13 Lead
stevorobs3 20/Oct/13 Lead O/S
MartinPL 20/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Climber1806 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with George Morris
Quarryboy 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Easy if you just unleash the beast within.

JamesRich 13/Aug/13 2nd dnf
Stanners 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A wild vertical voyage!

with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
jwpil 06/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Jake
Jake Young 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Jack
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd β
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
DanOsb 28/Feb/13 2nd

good holds. good rest.

w.pettet-smith ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S

well protected, a couple of nice udges

Gudge ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Staves
jwpil 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S

This seemed as easy, if not easier than FBD, its good though.

with Jon
deacondeacon 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
simonp ?/May/12 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
mark20 30/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Keendan 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S


with Alun
Andy Moles 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rob
Andy Peak 1 10/Mar/12 Lead

I had a nice lye down on the big ledge after the heel huck.

with random
67hours 10/Mar/12 2nd

Fell off for the 2nd time today. Ha.

robgixer ??/2012 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 13/Nov/11 2nd O/S

wet. Anna did the slab one handed.

Adam Booth 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S


conorjclarke 06/Nov/11 2nd β
with Noah Haber
Climber1806 ?/Nov/11 Lead β
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Cake 14/Sep/11 Lead dnf

Oh dear. But was I as motivated as I was for FBD?

with Matt
Skell 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb, loved the moves, definitely worth 3 stars.

with Jules
Tony Holdsworth 17/Aug/11 2nd rpt
with Peter Harris
cobweb 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with martyn hopson
morganator 08/Jun/11 Lead
with Jake Morgan, James Hall
Hidden 13/Apr/11 2nd
Phill Mitch 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with gaz
Tony Holdsworth 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Ian Holtby
Hidden 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Alex@home ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

thought the climbing on this was every bit as good as on FBD

with The Doctor
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 19/Nov/10 Lead
colkurtz 19/Nov/10 2nd
with Robb
Ahab 07/Nov/10 Lead β
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Jack Loftus 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Nick
nadeem 12/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Bit of a fucking epic, placed gear in the wrong place, tangled my ropes up and then it started to rain. had to make a speedy retreat via a bit of air time to the slab. will be back for it

with Davey
Spence22 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Wil
PeteH 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Awesome! At least as good as Flying Buttress Direct, if you ask me.

with Craig + Sarah
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Martin Cooper 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Hurt my nuts

with Stan
MorganPreece 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Haha couldunt stop laughing when doing the mantle!

with Jessy and Solo
Climber1806 16/Apr/10 2nd β

fun route good holds.

with Morgan Preece
beeson_paul 17/Mar/10 2nd

leader had an epic and bit of pannick attack at top but all fine :)

jon clayton 11/Mar/10 Lead
with Paul Beeson
Pown 02/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Pete Graham 02/Mar/10 Lead
Wood for Trees 24/Sep/09 Lead β

excellent climb

with mikey b
nai 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mel
Ketu 07/Sep/09 Lead dnf
with Nigel
Graeme Hammond 03/Aug/09 Lead O/S

straight forward enough, although more steep than FBD its not quite as well protected (more E1 than FBD is) But its all over very quickly just pull hard and rock over onto jugs!

with luke
gazfellows 25/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 08/Jul/09 Lead
JIMJIM ?/Apr/09 2nd O/S
tuftynick ?/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with pob
hamish2016 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with chris burn
Alex Mason 04/Mar/09 Lead

Failed too second 3yrs ago (no idea how). No harder moves than FBD but the crux is above gear. (first route with GVG, whoop!)

with Guy VG
Wood for Trees 04/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Didn't think for a second I would pull through the overlaps at the end of a long day but went well and will be back for lead. good climbing by the mason.

with Mikey, Mick and Al
Byronius Maximus 01/Mar/09 2nd
Twisty 01/Mar/09 Lead β

Wicked route, with lots of small foot adjustments between each handhold, which made for a pleasant climb!

with Byron Buck
SGD ??/2009 2nd

2nd Dave, this is good

with DW2
Hidden 17/Oct/08 Lead
Slatehead 20/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Just about as hard as FBD

with Sean Jacobs
will9911 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with chris
Twisty 11/May/08 Lead dnf

Took 4 falls, way too hot, know I can do the moves- and one to go and get cleanly!

with Byron Buck
Hidden ??/2008 -
jamiev 31/Jul/07 2nd β

lovely despite the attack of the midges

with Kenta Tanaka
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Mattyk 07/Jul/07 2nd

i rolled/mantled fully onto the ledge above the overhang before reaching up made it easier and less of a giant stretch

with Ali K
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
dan gibson 24/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
AJ007 24/Apr/07 2nd dog
Pythonist 21/Feb/07 Lead O/S

Great roof route. Slightly harder than FBD (E1, not HVS), but just as much fun.

Nicos 30/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Pete Graham ??/2007 2nd
with Ben Smith
Hidden ??/2007 -
01wills 04/Sep/06 Lead O/S

good climb

with David Radly
Ram MkiV 12/May/06 Lead O/S

didn't have to use any fist jams. Did however use a kind of toe jam.

with Alex, Dan & Tony
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Rich Guest ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Overhanging grit thuggery. Massively inferior to Flying Buttress Direct

Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
willackers ??/2005 2nd β
with Rob Napier
Mark Stevenson 29/Mar/03 Lead O/S
uphillnow 24/Mar/03 Lead rpt

Great route, even got a rest in middle - hang off left arm (think it was left!) and lay bum leg almost horizontal - must do it again then I might remember how I got the rest!

with mat allatt
Hidden 21/Sep/02 Lead O/S
mcb ??/2002 2nd O/S
nige ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Gilgar ??/1999 2nd
with Ryan Edwards, Duncan Barrack
Ben Bransby ??/1999 -
Hidden 11/Jan/98 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Nov/97 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 20/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
Roget 25/Jan/97 Lead O/S
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 28
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set