Rockfax Description
A wandering classic. Head up the unprotected 'question-mark' slab to its top left-hand corner. The undercut groove here is tricky to enter (good gear) and leads to an exposed slab. Head right to a ledge and a finish on jugs. Walk off right or finish up the short wall behind to reach the cliff top and the moor. © Rockfax
FA. Fergus Graham 1922.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Classic Rock , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , World Graded List , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , King of VDiff , Chatsworth to Bamford , CUMC Ticklist , Stanage Starred VDiffs , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , 50 of the Best , MUMC Ticklist , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Flying Buttress Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Welcome to CUMC , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Stanage 'Difficults' , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Stanage Solo , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , The Alf Bridge Challenge , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Peaky , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Stanage Ticklist , Dewimpification , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Diffage Comp , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Stanage 1956
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| MattyDredge | 27 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Polished but still grippy enough. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Polished but still grippy enough. |
||||
| PaulJepson | 3 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 'Unprotected slab' has plenty enough gear if you have cams. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: 'Unprotected slab' has plenty enough gear if you have cams. |
||||
| Lsuze | 2 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not sure what the comments are on about RE polished - absolutely fine, super grippy | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Not sure what the comments are on about RE polished - absolutely fine, super grippy |
||||
| ulastopka | 15 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed the slab very much. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyed the slab very much. |
||||
| springfall2008 | 1 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The slab allows for at least one nut and a cam Getting very polished in the groove Tricky mantle but on big jugs | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The slab allows for at least one nut and a cam Getting very polished in the groove Tricky mantle but on big jugs |
||||
| SuePearson | 31 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Failed to lead to the top bit -need to lose a few kgs. Scary for VD | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Failed to lead to the top bit -need to lose a few kgs. Scary for VD |
||||
| aztec_bums | 22 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: bloody polised as f**k but definately 3 stars first ever lead with a strange top out great fun | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: bloody polised as f**k but definately 3 stars first ever lead with a strange top out great fun |
||||
| VS4b | 6 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. HVD for my money, the slab is not unprotected as you can put friends and even a nut in if you look hard enough. Move up off the slab is interesting and harder than VDiff IMHO. Very worthwhile. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. HVD for my money, the slab is not unprotected as you can put friends and even a nut in if you look hard enough. Move up off the slab is interesting and harder than VDiff IMHO. Very worthwhile. |
||||
| Sam and will | 14 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: great route, i was about 10 wen i did this a few yrs back and coming up the overhang wen ur 10 is brilliant, hope to do flying butress direct this yr! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: great route, i was about 10 wen i did this a few yrs back and coming up the overhang wen ur 10 is brilliant, hope to do flying butress direct this yr! |
||||
| Si dH | 22 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Slab is unprotected, and the crux, altho easy, is harder than anything on most vdiffs, so Id say HVD is ok - the first time i ever went climbing i was seconding this and stood on the ledge under the crux getting pumped for 20 minutes, then got lowered off. Went back today to exorcise the demons and did the whole route in 5 minutes. Amazing what a bit of practice can do... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Slab is unprotected, and the crux, altho easy, is harder than anything on most vdiffs, so Id say HVD is ok - the first time i ever went climbing i was seconding this and stood on the ledge under the crux getting pumped for 20 minutes, then got lowered off. Went back today to exorcise the demons and did the whole route in 5 minutes. Amazing what a bit of practice can do... |
||||
| Nutkey | 31 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did a good selection of VDiffs at the weekend for my first leads, and then tried Flying Buttress. Found it gave me just the right amount of extra buzz over the VDiffs. Easy HVD, but not VD. Not sure the slab is unprotected - it looked like a cam would go in a couple of pockets. Didn't try though - the slab is a doddle, doesn't matter at all that it's unprotected. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Did a good selection of VDiffs at the weekend for my first leads, and then tried Flying Buttress. Found it gave me just the right amount of extra buzz over the VDiffs. Easy HVD, but not VD. Not sure the slab is unprotected - it looked like a cam would go in a couple of pockets. Didn't try though - the slab is a doddle, doesn't matter at all that it's unprotected. |
||||
| victim of mathematics | 9 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A bit of a soft touch HVD? only one hard move and that's stupidly well protected and not really that hard. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A bit of a soft touch HVD? only one hard move and that's stupidly well protected and not really that hard. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Cracker Jack
Grade: HVD ***
(Wildcat)