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24m.

Rockfax Description
A wandering classic. Head up the unprotected 'question-mark' slab to its top left-hand corner. The undercut groove here is tricky to enter (good gear) and leads to an exposed slab. Head right to a ledge and a finish on jugs. Walk off right or finish up the short wall behind to reach the cliff top and the moor. © Rockfax

FA. Fergus Graham 1922.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Classic Rock, Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, 100 Stanage stars, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 100 VD - VS, World Graded List, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, King of VDiff, Chatsworth to Bamford, CUMC Ticklist, Stanage Starred VDiffs, AMC Uni Ticklist, ULMC Classics, 50 of the Best, MUMC Ticklist, 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, Flying Buttress Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Stanage Popular Greens, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Welcome to CUMC, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten, Stanage 'Difficults', Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, The Gritlist, Stanage Solo, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
ulastopka 15 May Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed the slab very much.
 
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyed the slab very much.
springfall2008 1 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The slab allows for at least one nut and a cam Getting very polished in the groove Tricky mantle but on big jugs
 
Show beta
βeta: The slab allows for at least one nut and a cam Getting very polished in the groove Tricky mantle but on big jugs
SuePearson 31 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Failed to lead to the top bit -need to lose a few kgs. Scary for VD
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Failed to lead to the top bit -need to lose a few kgs. Scary for VD
aztec_bums 22 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: bloody polised as f**k but definately 3 stars first ever lead with a strange top out great fun
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bloody polised as f**k but definately 3 stars first ever lead with a strange top out great fun
VS4b 6 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. HVD for my money, the slab is not unprotected as you can put friends and even a nut in if you look hard enough. Move up off the slab is interesting and harder than VDiff IMHO. Very worthwhile.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. HVD for my money, the slab is not unprotected as you can put friends and even a nut in if you look hard enough. Move up off the slab is interesting and harder than VDiff IMHO. Very worthwhile.
Sam and will 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: great route, i was about 10 wen i did this a few yrs back and coming up the overhang wen ur 10 is brilliant, hope to do flying butress direct this yr!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: great route, i was about 10 wen i did this a few yrs back and coming up the overhang wen ur 10 is brilliant, hope to do flying butress direct this yr!
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Slab is unprotected, and the crux, altho easy, is harder than anything on most vdiffs, so Id say HVD is ok - the first time i ever went climbing i was seconding this and stood on the ledge under the crux getting pumped for 20 minutes, then got lowered off. Went back today to exorcise the demons and did the whole route in 5 minutes. Amazing what a bit of practice can do...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Slab is unprotected, and the crux, altho easy, is harder than anything on most vdiffs, so Id say HVD is ok - the first time i ever went climbing i was seconding this and stood on the ledge under the crux getting pumped for 20 minutes, then got lowered off. Went back today to exorcise the demons and did the whole route in 5 minutes. Amazing what a bit of practice can do...
Nutkey 31 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Did a good selection of VDiffs at the weekend for my first leads, and then tried Flying Buttress. Found it gave me just the right amount of extra buzz over the VDiffs. Easy HVD, but not VD. Not sure the slab is unprotected - it looked like a cam would go in a couple of pockets. Didn't try though - the slab is a doddle, doesn't matter at all that it's unprotected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did a good selection of VDiffs at the weekend for my first leads, and then tried Flying Buttress. Found it gave me just the right amount of extra buzz over the VDiffs. Easy HVD, but not VD. Not sure the slab is unprotected - it looked like a cam would go in a couple of pockets. Didn't try though - the slab is a doddle, doesn't matter at all that it's unprotected.
victim of mathematics 9 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A bit of a soft touch HVD? only one hard move and that's stupidly well protected and not really that hard.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A bit of a soft touch HVD? only one hard move and that's stupidly well protected and not really that hard.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 548
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 532
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Cracker Jack

Grade: HVD ***
(Wildcat)