Rockfax Description
In the back of the gully is a narrow buttress. Climb the bold wall to the capping overhang and then sneak off rightwards below the final overhangs. The direct finish is Malarete, VS 4c. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne 1950

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage Popular Greens.

TobyA 29/Oct/17 Solo O/S
jake little 26/Sep/17 Lead
Hidden 26/Sep/17 Lead
Ron 18/Sep/17 2nd rpt
with Steve A
robblowen 26/Aug/17 Solo O/S

24 of 100

rockman 16/Aug/17 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 12/Aug/17 Lead rpt

After failing to commit on Malarete

Ben Bransby 09/Aug/17 Solo
Hidden 17/Jun/17 2nd
Harry Padley 14/Jun/17 Solo O/S
Simon Caldwell 11/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Bold to start. Hard to finish.

with Carmen
Hidden 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Jim Walton 24/May/17 Solo O/S
Wizzy 21/May/17 Solo O/S
CRead 21/May/17 Solo
with wizzy
her_t6 08/May/17 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/May/17 Solo O/S
keitht 02/Apr/17 Solo
Hidden ??/2017 Solo
Jonny Holmes 15/Nov/16 -
tom_lewis89 15/Oct/16 Lead
kirsten 15/Oct/16 2nd
with Nik
Markheighton 25/Aug/16 -
Simon Holland 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Jonesy
mr_drains 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with The Defecator
newvena 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S
john lynch 09/Jun/16 Solo
with Bethan D
JoeCoxson 08/Jun/16 Solo O/S
ChrisBrooke 15/May/16 2nd
with Duz
Nick1812P 10/Apr/16 Solo O/S
gaz_jones 17/Mar/16 Lead O/S
alex4ajm3 ?/Mar/16 AltLd rpt
with Tom Simons
MrFantastic 23/Feb/16 Solo O/S
Matt Shepherd 23/Feb/16 Solo O/S
Phil Anderson ??/2016 Lead
DoctorYoghourt ??/2016 -
Rebecca North 31/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Not fun

martin48 20/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Flavio 16/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Pete_Frost 08/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Alex Newton 22/Jul/15 Lead O/S
ChrisVickers 21/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 10/Jul/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/15 TR
mattprince 20/Jun/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/May/15 Solo
MSchobitz 18/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Col Kingshott 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
jpksalmon 25/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Lower part of the climb was soloing as is unprotected. Crux after ledge took a number of attempts but still did it clean.

with Paul
Cristal Escalade ??/2015 2nd O/S
with Chris Matthews
Hidden 03/Dec/14 Solo
cookie-doo 03/Dec/14 Solo
tommccluskey 03/Dec/14 Solo O/S
terri.lea-hunter ?/Dec/14 2nd
JRJones 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Finished on Malarete

oli2wd 09/Nov/14 2nd

with Alice - very green and wet!

Robbiobaby 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
harry_lewis 21/Sep/14 Solo
babymoac 13/Sep/14 Lead
with Dan Sanderson, Rachel
pog100 31/Aug/14 Lead
with Cath Walton
Jake397 18/Aug/14 Lead
RagingPuffin 06/Aug/14 Solo O/S
charvey 02/Jul/14 Solo O/S
meltdown34 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Doug91 19/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Matt
stefelafel 13/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
shakeyjakey21 05/Jun/14 2nd
with Duncan
tom bre 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 Solo O/S
sgl 16/May/14 Solo
Easternbrown 04/May/14 TR
Hidden 04/May/14 Solo O/S
Brown 24/Apr/14 Solo
with Lilifa
Dafydd Llywelyn 19/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd
Ron 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Helen, Clive, Pete
Alex_Derbyshire 06/Mar/14 Lead
Markheighton 06/Mar/14 2nd
Leonhamnett 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
jonathan_doyle 22/Feb/14 2nd O/S

Little protection. Nice overhang where I had to cut loose to get a high foot. Almost had my first outdoor fall and my right hand popped coming up the overhang. Hands were numb. fun climb.

with Andriy Kobzarenko, Leon Hammet
GuitarGenius92 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
JakeWShaw 19/Dec/13 Solo O/S
with Shaun, Jem
Tithe Technique 25/Nov/13 Lead rpt
charley 25/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Kev
valentinesbabe 25/Nov/13 TR rpt

Not too bad with one hand, had to use other hand a bit at the top but no problem. Again I thought I'd led this before, but not according to the logbook. Will have to have a look in my guidebook and see if I've missed logging a day.

Hidden 08/Oct/13 Lead
davidalcock 08/Oct/13 2nd
mapperley samurai 29/Sep/13 2nd
with Ben Moss
Bede 08/Sep/13 Lead
mky77 08/Sep/13 2nd
JP78 08/Sep/13 Solo dnf
Hardcore Pat 04/Sep/13 Solo β
Jonny M 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 2nd
rbharries 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with jen peanut, lee
JenRoberts 25/Jun/13 2nd β
with Lee, Rhys
jshields 19/Jun/13 Solo
colin milton 10/Jun/13 Solo
HaddRoots 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Ardo 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/13 2nd
Ross Young 07/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/13 2nd O/S
mhamiltonj 07/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Solo O/S
danny269 01/Jun/13 Lead
with Keir
leeoftroy ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd
DGY 19/May/13 Lead
with Barbara & Lotti
Ian MK 07/May/13 Solo O/S
JimboWizbo 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S

One 4a move at the top

with Beth
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead
dsh 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Had to escape left instead of right as didn't have any cams that fit.

with Joel Hamilton
Hidden 13/Jan/13 Solo
Hidden 13/Jan/13 Solo
Nick Sillem ??/2013 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
jonnysims 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 04/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Paul Hy 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Andy S
Andypeak 28/Aug/12 Lead
with Paul Hy
buxtoncoffeelover 20/Aug/12 Solo
Jayzen 12/Aug/12 Lead
with Joshu Hardy
deacondeacon 27/Jul/12 Solo O/S
woody8 05/Jul/12 Lead
Psych ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
the power 27/Jun/12 2nd

brown star

with rob
dr_botnik 27/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Wee Davie 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Julie
taff raymond 04/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/12 2nd
Nigel Bond 21/May/12 Lead
with Anne Daykin, Bern Hardman
bwestwood 21/May/12 Solo
mountainpunk 28/Apr/12 Lead
with Tommy
tommylongfellow 28/Apr/12 2nd

Relied a little too heavily on the rope at the crux

Macleod 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Mehmet
hillm001 01/Apr/12 -
SteveM 31/Mar/12 Solo
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Josh Dickerson 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Martin
nogoodgrice 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Scott Dunkley
scott mayled ??/2012 Lead O/S

weak gear for the first 4-5m, relatively straight foreward after crack halfway up.

Andypeak ??/2012 -
akhughes ??/2012 Solo O/S
Scott Dunkley ??/2012 -
with Scott A, lewist1993
steve-grigg 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
al123 24/Aug/11 Solo
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Solo O/S
DKaye 17/Aug/11 Solo
with dunnyg
Hidden 05/Aug/11 Solo O/S
KatieG 23/Jul/11 2nd
with James Wyatt
jolyon.cohen 20/Jul/11 Lead

Scary! A long reach was helpful for the (?)crux move to avoid the nose.

with Charlotte Redit
Matt Groom 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tracyclimber 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/11 Solo O/S
erica 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with John
John Brayshaw 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Erica
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead
bennidavies90 15/May/11 Lead
Hidden 03/May/11 Solo
stpauliblade 28/Apr/11 TR
Sam..Oliver 28/Apr/11 TR
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead
gonzo_ls9 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with d
THardSevere 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Davebryant ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Matt Hale, Fran Cavanagh
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
R_W_M 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Matthew L
Griff1990 06/Nov/10 2nd O/S
JamesBurton 06/Nov/10 Lead
with Adam
Double Knee Bar 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Tried the VS 4C direct. had a fit but got it in the end. May have been to far right though, went directly up the arete rather than to the left as the topo states.

gingerwolf 17/Oct/10 2nd
with Glenn
LouiseCowie 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with josh daymond
Stepanek 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Adam_42 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Far from the most enjoyable climb ever. Found it to be mainly awkward and poorly protected at the start.

Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/10 Solo O/S
Keendan 18/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Dan_Staff 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
DaveLeonard 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S

First lead on Grit.

with PeteH
PeteH 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
shkinitrep 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/10 Solo O/S
al123 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
James Oakes 11/Aug/10 Solo O/S
The Bad Cough 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
John sealey 08/Aug/10 Lead
j.hubbard 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
aldred 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
pboniface 24/Jun/10 2nd O/S
nick ferro 20/Jun/10 -
Steve J P 16/Jun/10 Lead
with BW
Bernie Wylde 16/Jun/10 2nd
with sp
rwm7131 15/Jun/10 Solo
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead O/S
dpmUK 19/May/10 Lead O/S

Possibly went right too early

with Lindsay
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
brolte 15/May/10 2nd O/S
edd rab 14/May/10 Solo O/S
Keendan 02/May/10 Solo O/S
Powder Puff Girl 09/Apr/10 2nd O/S
popebenedictus 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
rfdl100 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Simon Waters
hilty 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
jon clayton 11/Mar/10 Solo
Hidden 05/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 19/Oct/09 Lead
intotheoutside 19/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Nexonen 13/Sep/09 Lead
with Andy L
axeman 13/Sep/09 Solo O/S
with james
disturbed_one51 10/Sep/09 Solo
Bernie Wylde 16/Aug/09 2nd
Dave89 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Laura
Shad ?/Aug/09 Lead
raptorheli 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
valentinesbabe 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Nice warmup

with Simon
sasasa 11/Jul/09 2nd dog
Hidden 10/Jul/09 Solo
mic_b 27/Jun/09 Solo O/S
jimorothy 26/Jun/09 Lead
with Scott Barnett
Strong Steve 25/Jun/09 Solo O/S
adam carless 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Solo O/S
FrJ 18/Apr/09 2nd dog

Off once. Really tricky getting out under overhang.

Phil Anderson 18/Apr/09 Lead
with FrJ
HansUDes 30/Mar/09 TR O/S

S, 4a, Route1, p264

JDDD 29/Mar/09 2nd
Tithe Technique 01/Mar/09 TR
with Marcus, Charley
charley 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Marcus, Kev
willoates ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Camdenelectric ??/2009 Lead O/S
ekaterina sigida ??/2009 Lead
with Lewis Vaughan
Adam1973 16/Nov/08 2nd O/S
default_slipper 15/Nov/08 2nd
kitkat78 13/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with SteveM
SteveM 13/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Kat
gnc760 18/Sep/08 Solo rpt
paulstrutt01 13/Sep/08 2nd
with pete
thompson1000 10/Sep/08 2nd
craig d 30/Aug/08 Solo
petemeads 29/Aug/08 Solo
andyebbens 27/Aug/08 2nd
with Steve E
Sankey 27/Aug/08 Lead
with Andy E
Sankey 30/Jul/08 Solo
maybe_si 14/Jul/08 Solo O/S
will9911 24/Jun/08 Solo
with Jenny
Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead
stephenhart102 09/Jun/08 2nd
with Kate Wels
Chris Ellis 07/Jun/08 Lead
with Steve Wade
fizzy_elephant 02/Jun/08 Solo O/S
wingalina 14/May/08 2nd O/S
with Robert Turnbull
Hidden 01/May/08 Solo O/S
mikeyg 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Nick Fishbourne
Hidden 05/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Lenny ??/2008 -
Hidden 13/Oct/07 Lead O/S
AJ007 05/Oct/07 Solo
Hidden 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Richard Hill 02/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden 22/Jul/07 2nd
Allan Watson 07/Jul/07 Lead
with Ian Atkins
davidgent ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Lydia
sce8 29/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Gemma Fisher And Dominic Sellers
fruitcake72 23/Jun/07 2nd
with mic_b
Blisco 10/Jun/07 2nd
with Keith Ridgeway
timreynolds 26/May/07 2nd O/S
mreynolds 26/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/07 2nd
RichardMc 05/May/07 Lead
with Mary Sealey
furry 28/Apr/07 Solo
BrianT 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Jasper Veale (age 11)
Jim Vach 12/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Graeme Hammond 11/Mar/07 Solo O/S
alexsharp 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Alex Davies
alexsharp 10/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Alex Davies
Hidden 10/Mar/07 Lead
Hidden 10/Mar/07 Lead
Chris the Tall 03/Feb/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Fraser13 ??/2007 -
JPGR 12/Nov/06 Lead
with Adam
philwont 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Claire
Hidden 04/Nov/06 Solo O/S
Rosie Henstock 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
TGreen 14/Oct/06 2nd
Fat Tim ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
SecretSquirrel 05/Sep/06 Solo
Hidden 04/Aug/06 2nd O/S
SGD 29/Jul/06 2nd

THe guide book topo tells you to step left the decription says step right? got confused so went fairly direct and it was bloody hard

with Adam Waller
David Robinson 16/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/06 Solo rpt
victim of mathematics 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
climbingrev 07/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Gear slow to start, but in abundance when it does! Good climb.

aztec_bums 28/Jun/06 Lead
with phillip jennings
Phil Jennings 28/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Woodseats Venture Unit#
howlingbaboon 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Neil
viking 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with morgan
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Somerset swede basher 23/May/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Solo dnf
roverhead 15/Apr/06 Lead
Nicos 04/Apr/06 Solo O/S
with solo
Tobias at Home ??/2006 -
Hidden 17/Nov/05 Lead O/S
loonyclimber ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Jeremy Wilton 25/Sep/05 2nd
with Mark Readman
krikoman 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Harder than expected, climbed as a "warm up" but ended being a bit of a struggle.

Rampikino 18/Sep/05 Lead
with Claire Rollason
Katsmiff 12/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Si dH 23/Jul/05 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/05 Solo O/S
Hopevalleypaul 21/Jun/05 2nd
with Mike C
JoW 04/Apr/05 2nd

First experience of seconding outdoors

Hidden ?/Apr/05 Lead
Martin Bennett 25/Mar/05 -
with MT
Hidden 13/Dec/04 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/04 2nd
coffeepot 04/Sep/04 Lead dnf
with Nienke
coffeepot 04/Sep/04 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/04 Lead rpt
Carl Smethurst 31/Jul/04 Solo
Zoomer 04/Jun/04 Lead
with Hiedi Sparks
Hidden 24/May/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/May/04 2nd O/S
LankyPaddy 01/May/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/04 2nd rpt
Pelleas ?/Apr/04 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jan/04 Solo
jonnyboy ??/2004 Solo O/S
nienke ??/2004 Lead
with Fran Robertson, Nick Shuttleworth, Paul Mealor
simon kimber ?/Nov/03 Solo O/S
with Robin Wilmshurst-Smith
rob wmc 18/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Pete
cpoad 27/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Clare F
loose85 11/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Phil West 21/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/03 Lead rpt
Mark Stevenson 15/Mar/03 Solo O/S
SteveM 15/Mar/03 2nd
with Rosie, Tobs
SMc ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Anne
Swirly 19/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/02 Lead
DerwentDiluted 19/Apr/02 Solo
Hidden ?/Apr/02 2nd
John Kettle ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
Ian Archer 12/Mar/01 2nd O/S
with Alister How
Hidden 13/Aug/00 Lead
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Roget 25/Sep/99 Solo O/S
with jon
Hidden ?/May/99 Solo
John Eley ?/Jan/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/96 Solo O/S
andrewbooth1000 22/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 13/May/94 Solo O/S
Scott McRae ?/Apr/92 2nd O/S

Friend of David Morris who climbed in plimsolls

conradallen 16/Mar/91 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/91 Lead
goi.ashmore 22/Jan/89 Solo O/S
Iain Thow 13/Jun/87 Solo
steve taylor ??/1987 -
Tom V 20/Sep/86 Solo
Dave Musgrove 02/Apr/86 -
Hidden 15/Mar/81 Solo
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Solo
Rob Davies 05/Aug/80 Solo
Adderbury Climber 12/Aug/79 2nd O/S
with Smudge Smith
Andy Say 06/Aug/79 Solo
Chris Terrey ??/1979 Solo
MikeDowsett ??/1978 Lead
Chris Ellis 15/Apr/77 2nd
with Martin Veale
Canyak ??/1973 -
mikej 22/Oct/67 Lead
with Alan Couper
mikej 18/May/67 Solo
with Chris Bridge
Hidden 03/Jul/65 Solo
Hidden 19/Jun/65 Solo
Hidden 29/May/65 Solo
Hidden 20/May/65 Solo
Hidden 02/May/65 Solo
Hidden 01/May/65 Solo
Hidden 28/Apr/65 Solo
Hidden 25/Apr/65 Solo
Hidden 24/Apr/65 Solo
Hidden 11/Apr/65 Solo
Hidden 04/Apr/65 Solo
Hidden 28/Mar/65 Solo
Hidden 20/Mar/65 Lead
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 40
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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