Rockfax Description
Intimidating climbing up the jutting prow. Climb the lower wall to jams below the overhang, up this with difficulty (good small wire up and left) to reach a ramp. Hand traverse rightwards up this to gain the arete and a sprint finale. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1975

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age.

markvaughan 03/Dec/17 2nd dog

Awesome route, couldn't pull my leaders offset wire out of the crack, so had to sit on the rope and fiddle. Then got given enough slack to do the crux moves properly

Rory_Cummings_NI 14/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Dominicclimbtime 19/Jun/17 Lead
with Ryan Thorpe
ferdia 04/May/17 2nd
with Rob Clifton
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
James Oakes 08/Oct/16 Lead G/U

1 fall.

with Harry Morrish
ferdia 05/May/16 Lead dnf

not the most tactical choice on a warm evening. fantastic and safe climbing though, hopefully ground up it sometime

with Laura Smitton
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Apr/16 TR β
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead RP
Proddler 18/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Fun bouldery crux.

dom94 17/Apr/16 Lead RP

Retroflash, tried it last summer but took the whip after pretty much swinging round onto black hawk bastion. Pleased to get it done today, its an awesome climb, safe but spicy!

with Laura Bulson, Sam Huguet
Hannes B 19/Mar/16 Lead dnf
with Charlie
harry_lewis 24/Feb/16 Lead G/U

Second go, fell off trying to downclimb from the break due to cold hands

with Ed Teale
mrteale 24/Feb/16 2nd dog

Got pretty pumped just before the crux fiddling all the gear out and then committed and managed to get to the arete before my hands finally gave up to the cold! Serious hot aches. Very keen to get back on this on lead, quality route.

dominic lee 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with debbie birch
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Niff
BRoe 21/May/15 Lead O/S
with Will Lord, Millard
tebs 20/May/15 2nd dog
with Burns
The old James turnbull 20/May/15 Lead
Nick1812P 18/Apr/15 Lead G/U
with Tom A
Teappleby 18/Apr/15 2nd dog

Had 2 goes Ground Up, first went pretty badly, second got out on the scoop but couldn't pull round. Psyched to come back when it's colder. Having said that, still didn't second it clean after Nick. Felt hard for 6a.

Hidden 04/Nov/14 Lead O/S
mountaingoatgirl 10/Sep/14 TR
mark20 20/Aug/14 Lead β

On Will's gear, great fun

Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 19/Mar/14 Lead G/U

ground up, second go. Fell first time near the top of the ramp, with right hand on the arete. Steady enough on the second go. Didn't bother with the high wire placement, looked too pumpy to place

Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
marcduhig 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Haydn
Haydn Jones 08/Sep/13 Lead β

felt really easy after just watching marc do it, helps so much knowing what to do before you even get there it feels like cheating :P

Chi Cheng 05/Mar/13 Lead RP

Got to the wave and arete but had was in the wrong place and came off. Came down, rested and got it 2nd go.

with Dan Gyi
Chi Cheng 05/Mar/13 Lead RP

Got to the slopers and arete but hand was in the wrong place and came off. Lowered off, rested and got it clean 2nd go.

with Dan Gyi
JulesV 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
will smith11 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Twisty
Twisty 02/Sep/12 2nd dog

Fell just before the slap out right. Second go move hands up to higher slopers before making the move... which was still bloody hard. Will cruised it. Good effort!

shed_hed 21/Jul/12 2nd dnf

Climbed to the overhang clean. Tried the crux but was pumped from taking the gear out at the break so slumped on the rope. Rope stretched more than I was expecting so ended up hanging in free space unable to get on the route. Had got all the gear out so got lowered off. Didn't think I'd get the move anyway as it looked hard!

with Alun Freem
mwatson 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt

fell off first time, ripped the RP, got back on and sent it without the rp, it's still safe without it

pmurdy 26/Mar/12 2nd
with Mike W
dmoir 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Gid
dswansonlow 15/Sep/11 2nd dog
with Dave Moir
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Ben Bransby ?/Nov/10 -
feilx 11/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with Ian Lovatt
Pete Graham 28/Oct/09 Lead
Ed Booth 23/Oct/09 Lead dnf

obviously not in the mood to commit today. Wouldn't have been upset wiht ground up but didn't fancy taking lobs and making Anna have to sit around belaying for ages while I hung around forever. Climbed up to the main roof, and then reversed removing kit. Felt o.k to where i got. I didn't even try the next moves but the reach looks big and the ramp looks slopey! Look forward to getting back on it though when i have a full day to smash it in! Still can;t work out where the RP is. Is it in the crack left of the hanging ramp??

dannyboy83 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Shane
Ram MkiV 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S

didn't bother with the rp's. (felt hard enough just to hang on and climb!)

with Al
dan gibson 16/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with AJ
Hidden 23/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Parry
willackers 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Dan Walker
Boy ??/2006 -
Chris Reid 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Gus 20/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Lead G/U
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
ukb & bmc shark 13/Nov/04 Lead

a few falls

with Jon Winter
CrashMat Rob 15/Mar/03 TR
with Ryan, Nicky
lx ?/Apr/02 Lead

5/6 tries. Snapped an rp!

CrashMat Rob 24/Jun/01 TR
with Nicky
goi.ashmore 16/Aug/00 Lead β
with Matt Hirst
CrashMat Rob 04/Mar/00 TR
with Brian, Nicky
sadams 19/Feb/00 Lead
with Tom Briggs
Hidden ??/2000 -
CrashMat Rob 26/Jun/99 Lead dnf

took a fall dnf

with Dave, Nicky
CrashMat Rob 05/Jun/99 2nd

Second some climbers we met

with Martin Whelan, Nicky
CrashMat Rob 01/Jun/99 TR
with Nicky
Billg ?/Apr/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/97 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/1993 Lead RP
uphillnow ??/1990 TR
Rob Davies 28/Apr/80 2nd dnf

Just holding the ropes!

with Martin Moran
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 22
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set