Rockfax Description
One of the best routes at Stoney, with a great variety of bold and strenuous moves, and enough gear to make it safe - even if it doesn't feel like it. Save it for the lead instead of top-roping it. Follow the elegant groove to the roof, then move left and climb the tricky wall to a break (pumpy-to-place gear and scary position). Step right and stand in the break (baffling for some) then climb the still awkward upper wall. Wonderful. © Rockfax

FA. Geoff Birtles 1979

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution.

Seb Grieve ??/2017 -
rocksol ??/2016 -
markalmack 21/Aug/15 Lead RP

Doable when you know how!

WB 21/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Onsightish... On Marks gear but Ended up doing it very differently. Balancy...

bigdrew 30/Jul/15 2nd dog

Still baffling but I think I know what I'm doing for next time!

markalmack 27/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out the crux. Went up and down about 5 times before giving up and falling off

LRob 31/May/15 Lead G/U
Hannes B 14/Sep/14 Lead dnf
with Tom W
Duncan Campbell 03/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Climbed to the first break and got mega pumped putting the kit in so did as any good trad climber would and down-climbed. Went back up again and fell as I had my feet all wrong to get to the crescent hold in the face. Time was running out so I pulled the ropes and had another quick go, this time getting the crescent hold but got scared pushing on to next break, got pumped and dropped off. Abbed for kit. Will be back. Pretty dusty in its lower section but I cleaned a lot off.

with Stadders
Apharri 16/May/14 Lead RP

Baffling crux sequence. Fine once you know

with Jim Gayler
bigdrew 27/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
samt 10/Sep/13 Lead
with Andrew Hart
tebs 27/Aug/13 2nd dog

Took a couple of goes to figure out the crux, properly bunched, but ok with a decent sequence.

with Burns
Adam Long 24/Aug/13 Lead
with Char Williams
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead dog
buzby78 24/Apr/13 2nd
with McGeek
mgeek 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S

took wee while to work out mantle move! ended up doing some bizzar sh*t! Cool route. Bogging backdrop!

with Neill Busby
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
lithos 23/Jul/12 2nd dnf

not really an attempt but a play on the lower section at the end of the day- when tired ! couldn't really do much of it! Must swap some flab for some muscles.

with pete harris
mwatson 18/Jun/12 Lead dog

shame to fall off, would have been the last of the 4 big stoney E4s in one day, next time, also this route would be much eaiser with a good bit of beta

Neil McA 10/Jun/12 2nd β

Did it ok on TR after having failed to lead it 31 years ago.

with Andrew James
redjerry ?/Jul/11 TR RP

2nd try

Hidden 24/May/11 2nd
tuftynick 24/May/11 Lead O/S
with ben winston, rich cross
Brown 21/Apr/11 TR β


with Solo
phil64 ??/2011 -
Rich Kirby 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Utter class.

with Nige
nige 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with richard kirby
jamiev 22/Jul/10 TR dog

came off at long reach. Back on and did it ok.

with Tom Lewis
Mike Goldthorp 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Best route at Stoney (from the few I've done)! An awesome sustained middle crux section with a desperate move at the end of it, had to pull reaaally hard to reach that distant hold! 4*

Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2010 Lead O/S
with aiden
dan gibson 31/Oct/09 Lead RP
with anna barnes
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 19/Aug/09 Lead β

Not a flash, but there are no g-up buttons. Foot popped on crux, unfortunate, but you live and learn. Awesome route, never E5 but top end E4.

andy gravestock 19/Aug/09 Lead β

brilliant climbing trickey moves to the legde flake then nearlly blew it on the crux but just managed to hang on there did also climb it on steves pre place gear didnt feel as tho it made to much difference tho as i clip all at gear hight.

with steve alex guy
Ram MkiV 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S

class route. was steady enough to the hard, easy to mess up, crux - a moment of sketchy time.

with guy, andy, al
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Boy ?/Jun/09 -
with Fiona Fullwood
Al Evans ??/2008 -
JulesV ??/2008 Lead rpt
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2002 -
sadams 14/Aug/01 Lead
with Tom Briggs
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 31/Mar/96 2nd rpt
Glenn Sutcliffe 31/Mar/96 Lead
Hidden 02/May/95 Lead rpt
crossleysm ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S

1 fall

Roget 10/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with colin, baccy
robyn1 ??/1993 -
Hidden 04/Jun/90 Lead
Billg 04/Oct/89 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
Hidden 01/Mar/88 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1988 Lead
with Leeds Crew
ukb & bmc shark ??/1988 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 -
Neil McA 10/May/86 Lead dnf

Ran out of steam at the break after fiddling the gear in.

with Andy Perkins
Mike Owen 04/May/86 Lead O/S
with Eric Rooseberry
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Ian Jones ??/1983 -
with Kim Carrigan
Hidden ??/1983 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 23
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set