There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Haul through the crack in the tip of the overhang. The start is f5. © Rockfax
FA. Howie Darwin 1989.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Grit Top Rope Solo
User | Date | Notes | ||
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MNA123 | 15 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I came off this from the ledge after the initial crack, no gear in so decked out, fractured my elbow and shook myself up preety bad. Definately worth getting some gear in. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I came off this from the ledge after the initial crack, no gear in so decked out, fractured my elbow and shook myself up preety bad. Definately worth getting some gear in. |
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Pythonist | 13 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I soloed this, and agree that the gear probably isn't worth it. Grab a spotter (or a mat, if you feel like cheating), and give it a go. I did a lot of up-downing before committing to the layback to pass the roof, but enjoyed the move thoroughly. Great small roof problem / route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I soloed this, and agree that the gear probably isn't worth it. Grab a spotter (or a mat, if you feel like cheating), and give it a go. I did a lot of up-downing before committing to the layback to pass the roof, but enjoyed the move thoroughly. Great small roof problem / route. |
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Monk | 25 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: One of the large HB offset nuts fitted perfectly, but it's not a common piece of gear. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: One of the large HB offset nuts fitted perfectly, but it's not a common piece of gear. |
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ericinbristol | 6 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you think there's any chance you'll run out of steam on this and come off, take the time to fiddle in a small nut in the crack: it is awkward to place and hard to tell if it's any good. I saw someone do a too casual job off this, come off, rip the nut, deck out. Not nice. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If you think there's any chance you'll run out of steam on this and come off, take the time to fiddle in a small nut in the crack: it is awkward to place and hard to tell if it's any good. I saw someone do a too casual job off this, come off, rip the nut, deck out. Not nice. |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)