Access Banned
Easy access but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 15 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Due to nesting birds, the ban for this area has been extended. Please visit NRW page for more information Natural Resources Wales / Exclusion zone to prevent damage at protected site
Rockfax Description
A Dream of White Horses for The Range. A stunning outing with space-walking moves across the lip of a roof. Best done at high tide. Start at a ledge that overlooks the ramp.
1) 4c, 20m. Traverse out across the abyss to a groove. Go around the rib to gain a slab leading down to a large corner - possible belay. Move around a prominent spike and down to a corner and traverse out to a good belay below a roof.
1a) Low Tide Start, VS 4c, 20m. It is possible to bypass the tricky traverse on P1 at low tide.
2) 4b, 20m. Move up to the roof and traverse left to where a wild step up gains a slab. Continue onwards until another big step can be made onto a pink-coloured ramp. Follow the ramp up and left to a belay on a rib just below the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Libby's Lines, Lesser-Known North Wales Classics , The Range - Recommended By Climber Magazine , 3 Star - North Wales upto HVS , Gogarth
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Brimham55 | 31 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don’t go thinking you can climb Blanco after this because this is a very soft touch at the grade. A steady head, a bit of care — and go over, not under, the horn on the second pitch — will give you a great climb. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Don’t go thinking you can climb Blanco after this because this is a very soft touch at the grade. A steady head, a bit of care — and go over, not under, the horn on the second pitch — will give you a great climb. |
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| Anhibian | 24 Jun, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: It’s worth considering splitting into 3 pitches, with a second belay in the first notch. Rope drag was atrocious for us! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: It’s worth considering splitting into 3 pitches, with a second belay in the first notch. Rope drag was atrocious for us! |
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| paulinepavlova | 9 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: I believe the Ground Up Gogarth South guidebook topo misses out the first pitch? I was confused as it shows route immediately going up and then descending yet the description says to traverse across sea-level. Think just follow the description, and go pretty much horizontal for first pitch. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I believe the Ground Up Gogarth South guidebook topo misses out the first pitch? I was confused as it shows route immediately going up and then descending yet the description says to traverse across sea-level. Think just follow the description, and go pretty much horizontal for first pitch. |
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| Butty | 3 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb route.... First pitch is the crux, I'd probably solo it again as gear wont stop you going in the drink. Be careful topping out as the rock is loose, placed 6 pieces of gear for anchor as dubious rock. Overall fantastic day and would repeat in a heartbeat | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb route.... First pitch is the crux, I'd probably solo it again as gear wont stop you going in the drink. Be careful topping out as the rock is loose, placed 6 pieces of gear for anchor as dubious rock. Overall fantastic day and would repeat in a heartbeat |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Range
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The Concrete Chimney
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)