10m.

Rockfax Description
Absorbing balancy climbing up the left arete of the buttress with a poor landing leads to a good horizontal break and runners. An immense reach is all that remains, or if over-reached, head left. © Rockfax

FA. Dennis Carr 1976

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Fiend 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A very worthwhile route - when done direct up the obvious line of the arete. Why a route would be described with an off-line eliminate finish is beyond me. The lower section, just safe above the perfect small cams, has a very fine sequence.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A very worthwhile route - when done direct up the obvious line of the arete. Why a route would be described with an off-line eliminate finish is beyond me. The lower section, just safe above the perfect small cams, has a very fine sequence.
Iggy_B 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Worth 2 stars at least! The lowish pocket takes 2 dodgy 0 cams and apparently a bomber 00 which I didn't have. Reachy move to reach the jugs, may be E3 6a for the short. Have done both finishes and for anyone under 6'5 go left as the straight up was at the very limit of my reach.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth 2 stars at least! The lowish pocket takes 2 dodgy 0 cams and apparently a bomber 00 which I didn't have. Reachy move to reach the jugs, may be E3 6a for the short. Have done both finishes and for anyone under 6'5 go left as the straight up was at the very limit of my reach.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Droyd 30 Jun Lead dnf Still don't like the combo of blind/small gear and scrittle
Still don't like the combo of blind/small gear and scrittle
Kirill 15 Jul, 2018 TR dnf Got to about half way. Too tired.
Got to about half way. Too tired.
JoshRawson 30 Jun, 2018 2nd β Stayed on the left hand side of the arete? seemed like the wrong line but still hard! good lead from Matthew however no gear on the left so its a Solo to the break with a horrific landing...
Stayed on the left hand side of the arete? seemed like the wrong line but still hard! good lead from Matthew however no gear on the left so its a Solo to the break with a horrific landing...
Fawley1 1 Sep, 2017 TR
with Becks87
with Becks87
Becks87 1 Sep, 2017 TR
Droyd 5 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Got the gear in the slot but then realised that it was far too hot (fat evening sun) to be worth bothering with, so down-climbed. Looks great though.
Got the gear in the slot but then realised that it was far too hot (fat evening sun) to be worth bothering with, so down-climbed. Looks great though.
Rory_Cummings_NI 6 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 26 Sep, 2015 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 26 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 2nd
JasonK 17 May, 2015 2nd
with Dan Shacklock
with Dan Shacklock
NDD 26 Apr, 2015 Solo
Nick1812P 17 Apr, 2015 Solo O/S
jamiev 16 Apr, 2015 TR rpt
with Tim Parkinson
with Tim Parkinson
nathanlee 19 Oct, 2014 Solo rpt
al123 22 Sep, 2014 Solo
Andy Peak 1 11 Jul, 2014 2nd well half lead just so i culd fall of the top:-)
with Andrew Deckon
well half lead just so i culd fall of the top:-)
with Andrew Deckon
deacondeacon 11 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Downclimbed from the crux a few weeks ago as I didnt have a small cam. Still had to do a fair bit of up'n'downing today as it was greasy in the heat. Last move was a bit of a shock too. Good route.
Downclimbed from the crux a few weeks ago as I didnt have a small cam. Still had to do a fair bit of up'n'downing today as it was greasy in the heat. Last move was a bit of a shock too. Good route.
BillyRidal ?Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Couldn't get any gear in the tiny slot at the start so essentially a solo, got a friend in the break higher up.
Couldn't get any gear in the tiny slot at the start so essentially a solo, got a friend in the break higher up.
WillDoyle 16 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 30 Nov, 2013 Lead dnf Felt too committing above a nasty landing. Followed Matt up and was glad I hadn't lead it.
Felt too committing above a nasty landing. Followed Matt up and was glad I hadn't lead it.
Matthew Ferrier 30 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Pretty committing crux. Not sure I'd have had the reach to reverse it.
Pretty committing crux. Not sure I'd have had the reach to reverse it.
dannyboy83 12 Nov, 2013 Solo O/S
Hidden 20 Sep, 2013 TR O/S
sgl0jd 20 Sep, 2013 TR O/S Warmup for Nosferatu. Not bad though. Should go back and lead
Warmup for Nosferatu. Not bad though. Should go back and lead
Mr Messy 1 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
with Julie
with Julie
al123 2 May, 2013 Solo
Nick Sillem ??, 2013 -
Hidden 9 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 8 Aug, 2012 2nd
Haydn Jones 8 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 May, 2012 Lead RP
BRoe 5 May, 2012 Lead O/S
whitehouse_rhys 5 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with BRoe
with BRoe
Graeme Hammond 22 Mar, 2012 Lead RP Excellent climbing, well worth a couple of stars. Attempted O/S lead but was being a wimp committing to the crux so top-roped it once and then led with head torch as it was getting dark. Slightly disappointed I top roped it as it wasn't that hard in the end and also I think could have got the O/S on a different night if I'd waited but still happy to have done this as it is a little gem.
with rich_hw
Excellent climbing, well worth a couple of stars. Attempted O/S lead but was being a wimp committing to the crux so top-roped it once and then led with head torch as it was getting dark. Slightly disappointed I top roped it as it wasn't that hard in the end and also I think could have got the O/S on a different night if I'd waited but still happy to have done this as it is a little gem.
with rich_hw
mark20 2 Mar, 2012 Lead β On Liam's gear
On Liam's gear
Hidden 2 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
al123 24 Sep, 2011 Solo O/S nice climb, technical
nice climb, technical
tomjagger 5 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
with Matt Cooke
with Matt Cooke
Hidden 8 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Harry Chaplin ??, 2011 Lead O/S
dominic lee 9 Sep, 2010 Solo rpt
nathanlee 9 Sep, 2010 Solo O/S
Pippa 8 Aug, 2010 Lead RP
andrew300169 10 Jul, 2010 2nd dog Doesn't look difficult from below under estimated it.
Doesn't look difficult from below under estimated it.
nai 10 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
dan gibson 17 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Shaun
with Shaun
peaches69 2 May, 2010 Lead O/S really balancy, hard to reach first break/scoop coz im short but easy going once reached the proper breaks near top
with joe
really balancy, hard to reach first break/scoop coz im short but easy going once reached the proper breaks near top
with joe
mike lawrence? 13 Apr, 2010 TR Fat Rob tried leading but gear fell out so top rope, really cold.
Fat Rob tried leading but gear fell out so top rope, really cold.
willoates ?Oct, 2009 Lead RP http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPvB4wWwFLA. decked from just below the horizontal crack first attempt because i was too pumped from failing on nosferatu. Fortunately, steve is the best spotter in the world... cheers Steve :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPvB4wWwFLA. decked from just below the horizontal crack first attempt because i was too pumped from failing on nosferatu. Fortunately, steve is the best spotter in the world... cheers Steve :)
Hidden 25 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
jamiev 1 Apr, 2009 TR O/S
with Adrian Richardson
with Adrian Richardson
Hidden 4 Jan, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Dec, 2008 Lead
craig matheson ?Apr, 2008 Solo
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
Ram MkiV 21 Oct, 2007 Solo
with alex b & eddie b
with alex b & eddie b
Hidden 20 Oct, 2007 Solo O/S
Mark Riley 20 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Oct, 2007 2nd
Alex Mason 29 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S More like E2 5b, poor gear, but great moves.
More like E2 5b, poor gear, but great moves.
Ram MkiV 29 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Al & Joe
with Al & Joe
Hidden 7 Nov, 2006 Lead
Hidden 18 Jul, 2006 TR
Boy ??, 2006 -
Hidden ?Oct, 2005 Solo O/S
Hidden 16 May, 2005 2nd
Iggy_B ?May, 2005 Lead O/S
with Pete H
with Pete H
UKB Shark ?Mar, 2005 2nd rpt
with Simon Shaw
with Simon Shaw
zero six ??, 2005 Lead O/S
eduardo ?Aug, 2004 2nd
Brian Rodgers ?Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
with eduardo
with eduardo
Hidden 14 Jun, 2003 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 1 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
uphillnow 12 Jul, 2000 2nd
tuftynick ??, 2000 Lead
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jun, 1999 2nd
with Ian Renshaw
with Ian Renshaw
Hidden 26 May, 1999 2nd
Hidden 26 May, 1999 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18 Apr, 1999 Solo
with Mike Weeks
with Mike Weeks
Hidden 14 Feb, 1998 2nd
martroberts 20 Jul, 1997 Lead RP 3rd go
3rd go
Hidden ?Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 7 Apr, 1997 Lead O/S
with Darren Stevenson
with Darren Stevenson
Hidden 31 Mar, 1997 Lead
Dave Douglas 2 Aug, 1996 2nd O/S
with Ed Morgan
with Ed Morgan
Mike_d78 17 Jul, 1996 2nd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 17 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
David Slater ?Jul, 1996 Lead
with Nick Copestake
with Nick Copestake
Roget 25 Jun, 1996 Lead rpt
with jon
with jon
NeilGriffiths ??, 1996 -
Hidden 8 Jul, 1995 Lead O/S
John Southworth 15 May, 1995 Lead O/S
Chris Reid 7 May, 1995 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 12 May, 1994 Solo O/S
marconi ??, 1994 2nd O/S
with Oli Ord
with Oli Ord
crossleysm ??, 1994 Lead O/S
The Reaper 23 Sep, 1993 TR O/S Shunt
Shunt
Roget 20 Jun, 1993 2nd O/S
with colin, baccy
with colin, baccy
Dave Musgrove 14 Jun, 1992 Lead
with Andy Watts
with Andy Watts
mik1miller ??, 1992 Solo
Neil McA 2 Aug, 1990 Solo O/S
goi.ashmore 1 May, 1990 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
with Dave Forster
Hidden ??, 1990 -
ajtay ??, 1990 -
stp 8 Mar, 1984 Solo O/S
13 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 26
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set